sign in a cave in Laos

7 June 2014

Madagui boulder caves, Vietnam

I had a piece published in The Star on 7 June 2014, about the boulder caves at Madagui in southern Vietnam.

Park it in Vietnam
Rock ‘n’ root: Tree roots have ‘invaded’ the gaps between the huge boulders in Madagui.
Rock ‘n’ root: Tree roots have ‘invaded’ the gaps between the huge boulders in Madagui.
   
Checking out the caves and forests of Madagui Forest City in Southern Vietnam can be quite a thrilling escape from city life.


Madagui, or “forest city”, is a bit of a misnomer as it is neither a forest in a city, nor a city in a forest. Madagui is, rather, an adventure park set inside a forest in southern Vietnam, between Ho Chi Minh City and the highland resort of Dalat.
Here, there are caves, water activities, nature treks and much wildlife to see. With no shortage of fun things to do, it’s a really great place to take the family.
Our reason for visiting Madagui was to explore the boulder caves. We were staying in the town of Tan Phu, so we took a bus to the park. Only it wasn’t a bus, it was a crowded van – it was already packed when it stopped to pick up our group of five! Somehow everyone managed to squeeze inside.
It was fun from the start. We got into an open safari truck – painted in tiger livery – and set off. Our driver went rather fast and it was a very bumpy ride as the roads were cobblestoned. I had to hang on tight every time we took a sharp corner.
We had a good overall view of the park area as we crossed the river and headed for the hills at the back, where the caves are located.
There are five caves open to the public. They are not limestone caves, but actually large gaps between enormous granite boulders. The boulders are really huge and you feel quite dwarfed when walking through its maze of passages.
Some passages are so dark that you need a torch. Wooden walkways and ladders ease one’s progress, but in many places there are small streams to step over.
It is a bit like something off a film set. The caves are situated in thick forests and the ginormous boulders forming the caves have huge tree roots entwined over them and creepers hanging down like strange curtains.

Roar for the tiger truck that takes you around the park.
Roar for the tiger truck that takes you around the park.

It was fun exploring the passages, following the marked trails, stepping over small babbling brooks.
There are legends associated with the caves. These stories originate from the Ma people, who inhabite the region and believe in a supreme protector of the forests. They say the caves were carved by the hands of the mountain spirit Yang Ndu who resides in the forest. Madagui according to the local language means “the Gui river of the Ma people”. The Ma are an ethnic minority belonging to the Mon-Khmer family who believe in animism and spirits.
Information boards in English and Vietnamese give details of the legends that are alive in this region.
At Than Nui deity park, large boulders outside Bat Cave and Heaven Blessing Cave have been carved to represent animal heads. These signify the animals that once gathered to listen to Buddha’s teachings. The bat and elephant, according to local beliefs, denote good genies that bring happiness and comfort.
Other animal heads that one would come across include the lion, buffalo, dragon, unicorn, tortoise and phoenix.
A group of stone bats “lead” visitors to the caves. In folklore, bats often appear as symbols of blessings, hence the name Heaven Blessing Cave. There are nine carved bats “flying” east to guide visitors to the main entrance of the cave. Then there is a carving of 18 bats in flight, descending on a tray of five fruits offered as a blessing. Inside the cave, an image of the bat-god extends towards you from the top of the dome, supposedly to bring wealth, luck and happiness to those who are sincere. (There used to be real bats living in the cave but they are no longer there.)

Crocodiles basking in the sunlight.
Crocodiles basking in the sunlight.

We were quite slow in exploring the caves and our driver decided our time was up, and asked if we wanted more time to walk to the last cave and then back to the headquarters. We opted for that.
It was a pleasant trek through the forest, on wooden planks and across several bouncy suspension bridges.
Death Cave was the last cave we visited. Not many people go there. A narrow trail passes mossy rocks and ladders lead down into the cave. Luckily the cave didn’t live up to its name and we emerged unscathed to walk back through a bamboo forest to the crocodile pond. There is a vast collection of bamboo in the park.
We reached the pond which was full of really large crocs basking in the hot sun. They looked like statues as they were totally inert, though I felt their beady eyes following us. Occasionally one would slide into the water with a very loud “plop”.
I giggled at the sign that said “crocodile fishing”. I imagined trying to catch one of these huge reptiles on a fishing line. The sign really meant that fishing was permitted. So presumably there must be fish there and they haven’t all been eaten by the crocs. Anglers can also try their luck fishing in the river, which is also used for rafting.
There are other activities to indulge in such as jet skiing, kayaking, motor boating, riding the banana boat and water duck biking!
For those who prefer dry land, you can try rock climbing, sliding down the zip line, target shooting, grass sliding and paintball.
Alternatively, you can go horse riding. Or go for a trek. There are streams in the forest with many secluded spots where you can enjoy a refreshing and cool swim.
If you want to go further into the jungle and mountains, you can go by jeep or UAZ, a Russian off-road vehicle.
Of course, you can just relax and have a picnic and enjoy the cool forest atmosphere. And after a hard day of fun, you can pamper yourself in the sauna and have a massage.
There is a variety of accommodation. For those who want comfort, there are three-star villas. If you are there with children, a more exciting option is sleeping in tents next to Tien Stream or in the “Tarzan-style” tree houses. These are situated in trees right by the river.
The large restaurant serves a variety of food, including local dishes of fish caught from the waters of the forest. Having a large variety of fruit trees means that some should be in season during your visit. You can go to the orchards which have the usual tropical fruits, as well as cooler highland varieties such as strawberries.

Some of the carved rocks of the Ma people.
Some of the carved rocks of the Ma people.

A popular night time activity is a jeep ride into the wildlife preserve. In this conservation area, you’ll find monkeys and deer, as well as muntjac and wild boar. Birds such as ostriches and pheasants and pretty fowls roam around too.
In fact, Madagui has an incredibly diversified ecosystem, with ancient trees and rare and valuable plant species. The nearby Cat Tien is a Unesco biosphere reserve and is home to large mammals, including the rare Javan rhino. It is very popular with bird watchers, too.
 

FACT FILE

Madagui,
Km 152, Highway 20,
Da Huoai District,
Lam Dong Province.
Email: reservation@madagui.com.vn
Entry to Madagui Forest City is VND40,000 (RM6) and all activities are priced separately.
Website: www.madagui.com.vn

> Madagui Forest is located in Lam Dong Province, 152km north of Ho Chi Minh City. It is situated right on the main highway, No 20, from Ho Chi Minh City to Dalat. Dalat is an old French hill station.

Getting there: From Ho Chi Minh City, take a bus that goes to Dalat, and get off at the forest city, about 7km after the town of Madagui. Alternatively, most travel agents in HCMC offer tours.

28 May 2014

Wooden structures of Nam Loong Ngam cave temple

The cave temples around Ipoh are quite well known, as religious sites and also tourist attractions.
The most 'advertised' in tourist literature are the ones at Gunung Rapat, e.g. Sam Poh Tong complex and Kek Look Tong, as well as Perak Tong north of Ipoh.

One of my favourites is/was Nam Loong Ngam [Nan Yang Koo Miau] at Gunung Layang Layang. I say 'was' because the old wooden temple structure has now completely gone, and the place has been completely modernised. It is a piece of history that has been wiped out.

The history of the Taoist temple dates back to the 'mid nineteenth' centry according to a document in the temple and in 1895 was exempted from registration by order of the British Resident. It was used for meditation by a single monk.

In 2005 it was decided to turn it into a Buddhist centre and to donate it to  Very Venerable Thrangu Rinpoche. A lama was resident since 2006 and a house was built for him as well as a 14 ft stupa.
This is how the wooden structure looked -

2001
2008 views -


In 2008 the cave name was officially changed to Thrangu Dharma Retreat Centre.

 And this was the new temple under construction -



 And this is the new temple
 


Inside it looks so different. Most of the old wooden stairs and platforms have gone, replaced with new stairs, metal handrails and tiled floors. Old stairs -

and new

The "Guinness god" (Prosperity) is still there although without the Guinness.

2008

I have lots of photos of inside the temple from 2001 to date. There are a lot of differences, the main one being the new 'upgrading' has opened up a new section of passage that was previously closed.
However the purpose of this blog is just to show the changes of the outside.


© Liz Price
No reproduction without permission

16 May 2014

Batek orang asli at Merapoh

There are several caves in the Merapoh area that have rock art. These simple drawings are done in black, presumably charcoal, and can be seen on walls of rock shelters and on the walls outside caves.

The drawings are thought to be done by the local orang asli, or aboriginal people. They are typical of other drawings at orang asli sites in West Malaysia.

In the Merapoh area, the orang asli are from the Batek group. They live in a new settlement at Gunung Jebuk / Gunung Teluk Gunung. The government has built them new houses


 and is working on the water supply -

We went to the kampung in Dec 2012 to ask about caves at Gunung Jebuk



However it is not known if people from this village did rock drawings in the area.
Read more on SEArch blog.

Some of my blogs on the rock art :

Gua Seribu Cerita 
Gua Lima

© Liz Price
No reproduction without permission



13 May 2014

Doomed Cave crystal chamber, Gunung Lanno

Early May 2014 a crystal chamber was exposed after the limestone hill had been blasted. As the hill will be removed later on, I was lucky enough to have the chance to photograph the chamber on 11th May.

The single chamber, which we named Doomed Cave, is located at Gunung Lanno, Simpang Pulai, south of Ipoh, Perak. The chamber is in a single rock pillar. I had actually photographed the pillar in 2001 (photos not shown here as they are on private property).

This is a 2011 view

2014 views


The cave entrance
A ladder had already been put in place

Inside was a stunningly beautiful crystal chamber



 Looking up at the ceiling






The crystals were translucent
 There were an amazing number and variety of helictites -



 




There were 'huge' crystals, in fact much of the floor was a crystal 'ledge'




 The crystal stal was damaged when a piece of roof fell due to the blasting


View from the cave





And this will be the final result


I was able to pay another visit before blasting on 19 May and took a quick video of the cave -
 
© Liz Price
No reproduction without permission