Cave swiftlets found dead in Phattalung caves

 An article in The Thaiger 22 Sept 2021 "5 billion baht loss as birds’ nest producing swiftlets found dead".

Apparently over 1 million birds have been found dead, in 107 caves in Phattalung's 7 islands.

The article says :

"Phatthalung authorities have requested help from the Department of Special Investigation to investigate the death of birds. These were no ordinary birds though; they were swiftlets, the birds that produce the saliva that make birds’ nest, prized as a health delicacy. And it wasn’t a few birds, it was over a million birds found dead in caves where Siamnest company has the authority to collect their birds’ nest.

And the financial loss of these birds and the birds’ nests they produce has been estimated at about 5 billion baht.

The company has permission to access 107 caves in Phatthalung’s seven islands and they sent their collection teams to gather the birds’ nest between September 9 to September 17. When they arrived to the last cave, they discovered the remains of more than 1 million birds instead of the nests they were tasked with collecting.

The team found the remains of a fire and various trash strewn about including shoes and plastic bottles. After Siamnest involved the Phatthalung authorities, the Royal Thai Police joined the investigation of the mass death of the swiftlet birds.

Unlike most birds that make nests out of twigs or similar materials, swiftlets make theirs completely out of their unique saliva which solidifies to form the nest. These saliva nests are considered a delicacy, especially in Asian regions, for it’s believed healing powers. Birds’ nest soup is often made by steaming and soaking the saliva nests.

The nests are said to help with kidney health, phlegm reduction and are desired as an aphrodisiac as well. Harvesting companies have become big businesses due to the high price the unique birds’ nest can fetch, with companies like Siamnest getting exclusive access to areas the swiftlets nest or even creating artificial sanctuaries for swiftlets to nest.

Of note, disgraced police officer Pol Col Thitisan “Jo Ferrari” Utthanaphon, whose shocking wealth was revealed upon his arrest for suffocating a suspect in custody, was said to have made part of his fortune by trading birds’ nest.

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The source of the above Thaiger article is The Nation , which has lots of photos:

Horrifying Phatthalung bird massacre costs Siamnest THB5-bn in lost revenue

A Royal Thai Police (RTP) team visited Phatthalung province on Monday to investigate the case of missing birds’ nests and the mass killing of swiftlets.

Siamnest company, which has the concession for collecting bird’s nests from the 107 caves in Phatthalung’s seven islands, sent its teams off to collect nests from September 9 to 17.

However, when the collectors arrived at the last cave, they found no nests but instead, the carcasses of more than a million birds, the remains of a fire and trash including plastic bottles and shoes.

The damage from this bird massacre has been estimated at about 5 billion baht.

Phatthalung authorities, meanwhile, have contacted the Department of Special Investigation to see if they will consider taking on the case.

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I've been to several caves in Phattalung province mainland, but not islands -  see labels on the right.

Caves at Phattalung town, south Thailand

Phattalung is a province in southeast Thailand. There are 2 limestone hills in the town of Phattalung.

Khao Ok Thalu is the tall hill to the east of the railway, characterised by a cave tunnel that pierces the hill near the top. This is the view from the station.

Khao Hua Taek is to the west of the railway line.

This is where Wat Khuha Sawan is located. There is a small bat filled cave behind the monks' house. The main cave has a reclining Buddha and is filled with seated Buddhas. Steps lead down to a lower chamber and pool.

You can climb up the steps to the right of the wat by a fat Buddha

and the path leads up through a wood and to a small cave. A monk used to sleep here. There is also a path up to a view point. There are good views over town to Khao Ok Thalu

and other hills in the other direction

We walked from town to Khao Ok Thalu aka Punctured Chest Mountain.

At the cave park is a sign saying Tham Pim, Kuram and Malai are archaeological sites where votive tablets from 8-13th c. were found and dug by Rama IV in 1907.

We then followed the signs to Tham Malai,

walking on the road which runs alongside Khao Ok Thalu. Malai Cave is in a small rock outcrop at the NW end of the main hill. It is about 2 km along this open road which follows a canal and the railway line. It was a nice green walk with the padi fields in front of the limestone hill.

and looking back at Khao Hua Taek.

We visited in July 2003 and Tham Malai was being developed for tourism. There was a small quarry right by the main cave.

We passed a small cave at the bottom of the hill then climbed up steps to a cave with a fat Buddha,

and behind is a larger chamber which goes into an even bigger chamber. There is some nice stal and some bats.

Continuing up to the top, old broken steps lead down to another cave with a large chamber, bats and cockroaches. Workmen were building steps in the cave. There is a view from the top

The 4th cave was presumably Tham Malai. It's a large chamber with steps and when we visited a lot of construction work was taking place.

There is a 5th cave at the back of the new car park, a chamber with creamy colour stal.

© Liz Price
No reproduction without permission

Phu Pha Phet Cave, Satun, Thailand

Phu Pha Phet Cave in Satun province, in south Thailand is a very large cave. It is large in terms of volume, or chamber size. [Looking at Google Earth it seems the cave is just over the border in Phattalung province, but the road access is from Satun province!]

In Sept 2000 I saw a signpost to this cave on the road 4137 south of La Ngu, between Ban Prae and Khuan Kalong. However the cave is a long way from here. We started to drive to it but gave up when we saw no sign of any limestone hills.

I mananged to get to the cave in Jan 2001 with the Axbridge Cave Group expedition.

Again we were driving on the 4137 road, but this time we were going north. Although the cave is signposted, there is no distance marked. Our guide said it is 30 km. We drove quite a way, then turned right onto a rough track and saw a sign for 2 caves, Phu Pha Phet and Jetkod, 20 km and 9 km. The road became very poor and we had to go over a very dubious looking bridge.

After some km we came to a sign for Golden Bell Cave on the left.

Golden Bell Cave - we drove down a rough track for a few km, and passed some limestone hills. The cave is in a hill on the right. There was one resident monk.

The first cave was more of a rock chamber with Buddhas, and at the back was a small pool with stal and many toads.

The main cave is further along the track and has electric lighting. A small entrance leads into a complex of large sloping chambers and tunnels. All the upper chambers are reached by wooden ladders made from planks, some with bamboo handrails. There were 2 or 3 beds in the high chambers.

We missed Jetkod Cave, but were told it is a river cave near Golden Bell.

It was still around 20 km to Phu Pha Phet Cave along a very rough track. We seemed to be surrounded by limestone hills most of the way. One tower on the right had an archway right through near the top. Very impressive.

Some of the hills had jagged blocks or pinnacles up hill. All very interesting.

We finally came to a sign to 2 caves, Phu Pha Phet and Tham Khong Khalod.

Phu Pha Phet - the entrance is half way up the hill. A small rock shelter with a low stooping passage leads into the main cave.

The main cave is HUGE. Wooden ladders lead down and only then we realised just how huge the chamber is. Huge stals and lots of blackness in the distance. Everything is very dry.

We walked around the chamber which is packed with stals. 2 guides showed us around. We were in a rush so didn't have time to stop and really look.

However we returned twice more to explore and survey both caves. It was more than a 2 hour drive from La Ngu (70 mins from Pak Bara on tarred road, then 70 mins on the rough track).

Phu Pha Phet is home to bats and invertebrates. At the base of the main chamber a steep slope and climb lead up to a very large opening which is really impressive (pic from Google Earth).

A side passage leads to a chamber and we could hear a river about 50 m below.

The next day we went in Tham Khong Khalod, which is a river cave at the base of the hill. We stopped when we reached deep water with a lot of bamboo and wood debris floating. We could hear the river beyond but didn't fancy the rubbish.

We realised that both these caves are connected, part of the same system. We again went up to Phu Pha Phet to check out some things including a drop into a blind chamber.

We also tried to abseil down to the river but our rope was to short.

At the time there seemed to be nothing written about Phu Pha Phet. Even now it doesn't feature on many websites. I was amused to see this site

Phu Pha Phet Cave is situated in Village number 9 Pa Pon Community Pakm Pattang Subdstrict, Manang, Palm Phattana.
Phu Pha Phet Cave in Thailand is one of the must visited places when you visit Manang district in Satun, Southern Thailand. This well kept secret has only recently been exposed to international tourism and for those who enjoy some serious Eco-Tourism or love caves, this is the place to visit. Also translated as the Diamond Mountain Caves, this is the largest cave in Thailand, the third largest in the world and apparently unavailable in most international travel guide books.

It is not the largest cave in Thailand or 3rd largest in the world. It might however be the 2nd largest chamber in Thailand, and approximately the 16th largest chamber in the world.

A full report was published in ACG Journal March 2001 and the ACG website.

Apparently there are now guided tours into the cave and headlights can be rented, according to this blog and another blog.

© Liz Price
No reproduction without permission

Phattalung & Songkla (Star)

THE STAR
Saturday September 20, 2003
More than a seaside to Songkla

Story & Pictures by LIZ PRICE

IT was a tough decision each night. Should I have a local delicacy, such as a plate of fresh spicy noodles with seafood, or should I buy lots of snack items and make a picnic out of it? The food on display at the market stalls was enough to tempt the most discerning of gourmets.

I was in Phattalung in southern Thailand, ostensibly on a caving trip but it was starting to turn into an eating binge. Oh well, what the heck. Might as well indulge and combine my two passions in life.

I had arranged to meet my non-caving friend in Hat Yai, not having told him I would be dragging him around a few spelaeological sites. I took the bus up to Hat Yai from KL, and upon arrival, was soon ensconced in a comfortable cheap hotel, costing all of 150 baht (RM14) a night.

And then we immediately headed for one of my favourite eating-places, a small shop selling authentic Thai food, not often patronised by foreigners. A plateful of delicious spicy food costs less than RM3. Most Malaysians when visiting Hat Yai tend to go to expensive seafood restaurants catering for tourists, or to one of the many halal shops in the city centre.

The food in these places is generally expensive and toned down for the Malaysian palate, so you don’t get the kick of authentic Thai cooking.



Phattalung Province is south Thailand's major rice growing area.


Big Sea meets Little Sea

The following day we made a day trip to Songkla. This seaside town is the capital of Songkla Province, not Hat Yai as many people think. We took a bus — big buses and minivans frequently ply this route. We spent the day wandering, sitting and looking. The town has a pleasant feel as it is quieter and less busy than Hat Yai, and has retained its charm with old buildings and temples.

The National Museum has to be one of the most attractive museum buildings in Thailand. It is housed in a 100-year-old building of southern Sino-Portuguese architecture, painted red and white with a curved roofline. The museum contains exhibits from all national art style periods as well as Thai and Chinese ceramics and furniture. Outside the museum is a stretch of the old city wall dating from the 17th century.

Songkla lies on a peninsula between the Gulf of Thailand and a large inland sea. This inland sea, Thaleh Sap, is a huge brackish lake stretching up to Phattalung about 90km away, where it merges with the Thaleh Noi (Little Sea). There are two wildlife sanctuaries on this inland sea, and these are important wetland areas and a haven for waterbirds.

Another attraction of Songkla is the seafood, particularly along Hat Samila, a white stretch of beach lined with casuarina trees. At one end of the beach is a bronze statue of a mermaid, similar to that found in Copenhagen, Denmark.

The inhabitants of Songkla are a colourful mix of Thais, Chinese and Malays, and this is reflected in the architecture in the old part of town. Wat Klang is a 17th century Sino-Thai temple. Songkla is also southern Thailand’s education centre, and this is seen in the number of universities and colleges.

Eh, what ferry?

We then headed north to Phattalung, about 1½ hours by bus from Hat Yai. Phattalung Province is south Thailand’s major rice growing area and it has prospered. The eastern portion of the province is washed by the inland sea Thaleh Noi. Phattalung town is small and very few foreign tourists stay here, as they are normally dashing to or from the more popular beach areas and islands and Hat Yai. As a result, we found the locals very friendly.

You can tell by the number of gold dealers on one road that there is a large Chinese population.

But there is also still a strong Muslim influence, so there is no problem in finding halal food.


Its eastern portion is washed by the inland sea Thaleh Noi.

Phattalung is famous for the original nang thalung or shadow play (wayang kulit); in fact the name probably comes from Phattalung, as nang means untanned leather. The town lies between two picturesque limestone hills, which in English are called Punctured Chest Mountain and Broken Head Mountain. The Punctured Chest Mountain does have a cave tunnel through its upper peak. Of course, I had to investigate both these hills in my search for caves.

Wat Khuhasawan at the edge of town is a cave temple, the main chamber houses a reclining Buddha and numerous smaller seated Buddhas. Steps lead down further in to the cave, so I went to investigate whilst my friend stayed behind. We then climbed many steps to the top of the mountain where we had an excellent view over the town and surrounding plains, and the nearby Punctured Chest Mountain. We could see right across the inland sea and decided that the next day we would go out there and do a boat trip across the sea.

This proved to be a bit of a non-event. We took a songthaew (taxi van) out to Lam Pam, on the banks of the inland sea, and found the place deserted. We wandered around in vain looking for the supposedly regular ferry across the inland sea. There was no sign of this, just a few fishermen out in small boats.

Finally we asked at the only shop open and was told there is no longer a boat service.

Scenic walk to caves

So we walked back along the river, which was rather pleasant, and went to Wat Wang, Phattalung’s oldest temple, at more than 100 years old. It is a small but interesting place.

We then went back into town sharing a songthaew with a few baskets of dried fish and vegetables. This, of course, got my taste buds going, so when we reached town I dived into the mini-mart and bought some snacks and drinks. Thai supermarkets in rural areas are very civilised as they invariably have a stone table and chairs outside, so I could sit here and refuel before tackling the next set of caves.

Firstly, we had to take photos of the cave tunnel which pierces the high peak. The best view was from the middle of someone’s farm, and the owner was more than happy for us to plough through the vegetable and banana plants to get our shots. We then trekked down the road following the signs to Tham Malai, or Malai Cave. Despite the blazing heat, this was a scenic walk, as the road ran alongside the canal and railway line, with brilliant green padi fields stretching to the foot of the hill on the other side.

When we reached Tham Malai, we found a lot of construction work in progress, with a new road being built up the hill, and flights of steps being laid in the main cave. I managed to explore four caves in this small hill. Again, there were good views over the surrounding plains with the limestone towers sticking out prominently.

On the top of the hill are some Chinese shrines and a chedi (stupa), but this complex was locked. Some of the caves are archaeological sites, where votive tablets from the eighth to 15th centuries have been found.

Coconut omelette, anyone?

Having exhausted ourselves walking and climbing, we ambled back into town to enjoy the local food in the market. First item on the menu was a fresh fruit juice which cost less than RM1. Then I had to sample the khao yam which is dry rice mixed with coconut, peanuts, lime leaves and shrimps. Yum, delicious. This was followed by snacks from different stalls, including a coconut omelette. Although this sounds odd, the slightly salty tang of the fresh coconut really complimented the egg.

We then went to one of the many internet cafes to catch up with our e-mail, then prepared for the journey back to KL. W

Caves & temples Phatthalung | Brunei Times

http://www.bt.com.bn/en/classification/life/travel/2007/04/14/caves_temples_and_charms_of_thai_south
Cave temples in Phatthalung in south Thailand

Caves, temples and charms of Thai south

Liz Price
KUALA LUMPUR

Saturday, April 14, 2007

PHATTHALUNG, an ancient city in southern Thailand, lies nestled among mountains with an inland sea on one side. Just north of Hatyai, the main town in the south's major rice growing area has prospered but still maintains a quiet atmosphere and easy charm.



Phatthalung is famous for the original nang thalung or shadow play (wayang kulit), an art form still practised to this day.

The area is also renown for its cave temples. One is Wat Khuhasawan, at the edge of town, with the main chamber housing a reclining Buddha and numerous smaller seated ones.

There are steps leading down into the bowels of the cave and up to the top of the mountain, where there is an excellent view over the town, the surrounding plains and the nearby Punctured Chest Mountain.

Across the inland sea, Thaleh Noi, is the jutting out bit of Lam Pam, well known for its fresh seafood. But on this Saturday morning, the stalls were deserted and we could not avail ourselves of the renown roast squid.

Finding the ferry no longer in service, probably due to the prosperity of the residents who now own cars and just drive between the mainland and peninsula, my friend and I had a pleasant walk along the river to Wat Wang, Phatthalung's oldest temple that dates back some 100 years. It holds a historical spot in the province as the temple, built in the reign of King Rama III, was once the place where government officials performed allegiance pledges in the early Rattanakosin period.

Inside the convocation hall are murals of dusted paint in the time of King Rama IV about the biography of Buddha and about angels. The main plaster Buddha image is from the same period while a total of 108 images line the balcony around the building.

That bit of history behind us, we then went back into town for more spelunking.

Phatthalung town lies between two picturesque limestone hills, which in English are called Punctured Chest Mountain and Broken Head Mountain.

Punctured Chest Mountain has a cave tunnel which passes all the way through its upper peak, and a not-to-be-missed photo opportunity. The best view was from the middle of someone's allotment and the owner was more than happy for us to plough through the vegetable and banana plants to get our snaps.

We then trekked down the road following the signs to Tham Malai, or Malai cave.

Despite the blazing heat, this was a very scenic walk, as the road ran alongside the canal and railway line, and on the other side brilliant green paddy fields stretched to the foot of the hill.

White egrets contrasted with the bright green of the paddy, the darker green of the forested slopes and the blue sky.

When we reached Tham Malai, we found a lot of construction work in progress, with a new road being built up the hill and flights of steps being laid in the main cave.

I managed to explore four caves in this small hill, which is actually a small outcrop at the end of the main range. Some of the caves are archaeological sites, where votive tablets from the eighth to 15th centuries have been found.

Having exhausted ourselves walking and climbing so many steps in the hot sun, we ambled back into town and spent the rest of the day enjoying the local foods in the market.

First item on the menu was a fresh fruit juice which cost less than a ringgit. Then I sampled the khao yam, which is dry rice mixed with coconut, peanuts, lime leaves and shrimps. Delicious. This was later followed by snacks from different stalls.

One, which I can highly recommend, is a coconut omelette. Although this sounds odd, the slightly salty tang of the fresh coconut really compliments the egg.

Good views, nice people and great food. We went home sated with the delights of southern Thailand's charms. The Brunei Times