Cave swiftlets found dead in Phattalung caves

 An article in The Thaiger 22 Sept 2021 "5 billion baht loss as birds’ nest producing swiftlets found dead".

Apparently over 1 million birds have been found dead, in 107 caves in Phattalung's 7 islands.

The article says :

"Phatthalung authorities have requested help from the Department of Special Investigation to investigate the death of birds. These were no ordinary birds though; they were swiftlets, the birds that produce the saliva that make birds’ nest, prized as a health delicacy. And it wasn’t a few birds, it was over a million birds found dead in caves where Siamnest company has the authority to collect their birds’ nest.

And the financial loss of these birds and the birds’ nests they produce has been estimated at about 5 billion baht.

The company has permission to access 107 caves in Phatthalung’s seven islands and they sent their collection teams to gather the birds’ nest between September 9 to September 17. When they arrived to the last cave, they discovered the remains of more than 1 million birds instead of the nests they were tasked with collecting.

The team found the remains of a fire and various trash strewn about including shoes and plastic bottles. After Siamnest involved the Phatthalung authorities, the Royal Thai Police joined the investigation of the mass death of the swiftlet birds.

Unlike most birds that make nests out of twigs or similar materials, swiftlets make theirs completely out of their unique saliva which solidifies to form the nest. These saliva nests are considered a delicacy, especially in Asian regions, for it’s believed healing powers. Birds’ nest soup is often made by steaming and soaking the saliva nests.

The nests are said to help with kidney health, phlegm reduction and are desired as an aphrodisiac as well. Harvesting companies have become big businesses due to the high price the unique birds’ nest can fetch, with companies like Siamnest getting exclusive access to areas the swiftlets nest or even creating artificial sanctuaries for swiftlets to nest.

Of note, disgraced police officer Pol Col Thitisan “Jo Ferrari” Utthanaphon, whose shocking wealth was revealed upon his arrest for suffocating a suspect in custody, was said to have made part of his fortune by trading birds’ nest.

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The source of the above Thaiger article is The Nation , which has lots of photos:

Horrifying Phatthalung bird massacre costs Siamnest THB5-bn in lost revenue

A Royal Thai Police (RTP) team visited Phatthalung province on Monday to investigate the case of missing birds’ nests and the mass killing of swiftlets.

Siamnest company, which has the concession for collecting bird’s nests from the 107 caves in Phatthalung’s seven islands, sent its teams off to collect nests from September 9 to 17.

However, when the collectors arrived at the last cave, they found no nests but instead, the carcasses of more than a million birds, the remains of a fire and trash including plastic bottles and shoes.

The damage from this bird massacre has been estimated at about 5 billion baht.

Phatthalung authorities, meanwhile, have contacted the Department of Special Investigation to see if they will consider taking on the case.

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I've been to several caves in Phattalung province mainland, but not islands -  see labels on the right.

Gomantong on Earth's Natural Wonders (2015)

Earth's Natural Wonders - BBC Scotland 2015 (TV series)

Exploring Inhospitable Places. "Series combining photography and human drama to reveal twelve remarkable places, uncovering the stories of people fighting to survive, and even triumph there."
A 6 minute sector featuring birds nest collection.

The narration is misleading, as it only mentions Deer Cave, which is initially shown. But then the rest of the sector is about nest collection in Gomantong, although this isn't mentioned.

Treasure troves accessible only to the very bravest. On the Malaysian island of Borneo, deep in the rain forest lies a hidden wonder. Deer Cave, an epic 168 m wide with a ceiling 220 m high and over 4 km long. A cavern big enough to fly a jumbo jet through. And for centuries Borneo's huge caves have lured men inside to search for treasures they will risk their lives for. Tomorrow morning Jumalee Tubong will enter this wonder. He may not come out alive. "What I do is very risky. But I have to do it. My wife and kids depend on me." For Jumilee and his father, today is the start of a dangerous week. "The cave is terrifying. Dark spirits live there. They take a human life every year." The men seek a great prize. The treasure produced by these birds, tens of thousands of swiftlets. Their nests are woven from solidified saliva and they are the precious ingredient of birds nest soup. In China a single bowl can cost $60. Inside a team erect a web of ropes and ladders. Jumalee will try to climb for nests 100 m above. A part of the cave notorious for accidents. "I'm ready to try. Is it strong enough?" "You mustn't hesitate. Let your body lead you. Slow down, it's swinging." "The man who taught me died falling. So I'm always giving my son advice." Jumalee is only allowed to collect nests for a few weeks a year. So every climb must count. "If you fall it's instant death. The cave's so high. Bodies are smashed beyond recognition. Are you okay? Go slowly now." He's reached a critical point. He needs to switch ladders. "Right leg first. Jumalee! Don't let go yet. That's good." The drop below is now a staggering 90 m. The height of Big Ben. "Okay, you can go." "I'm afraid when I look down. Sometimes I shake with fear. But I make myself do it." This enormous cave was first sculptured by water. But there's another remarkable force at work. The nesting swiftlets. The vertical columns lining the cave walls reveal how over millions of years the acidic droppings of nesting swiftlets and bats have eroded deep channels in the walls making the caves here bigger by an estimated meter every 100,000 years. Some caves have doubled in size as a result. "Go slowly now. As he approaches the top i'm neverous. Your soul hangs by the finest of threads." This time Jumalee has been successful. He has reached a remote corner with a valuable little cluster of nests. But he knows very climb he makes could be his last. And it's the very thing he's risking his life for, the birds nests, that has helped create the challenge in the first place.

Credits - Indonesian Forestry Dept, Sabah Government and Wildlife Dept, Sarawak Government and Tourism Board.

Shown BBC4 in June 2020. Some photos on BBCEarth and reproduced here -

And some photos from the television screen. The first one shows Deer Cave -

Bomb-making equipment inside Krabi cave, & birds nests

Birds' nest caves in SE Asia are generally owned by local people and are carefully guarded to protect the valuable nests.

In March 2019 there was a mine explosion in a birds'  nest cave in Phang Nga Bay, Thailand. On March 20 The Thaiger reported "Investigation into mine explosion on a Phang Nga Bay bird’s-nest concession island". There was an explosion at a bird’s-nest concession area in Phang Nga bay, where two men were killed. The island is Koh Lao Dua, 6 km north of Koh Yao Noi. The mine had been planted in the beach, in a concession area that was out of bounds. The Nation Mar 19 "Investigation under way after lethal blast  in Phang-nga bird’s-nest concession area".

And in another incident also in Krabi area a week later -

The World News 28 March, "Bomb making equipment discovered in Krabi cave" -

Krabi officers have discovered bomb-making equipment inside a cave in Krabi.

Officers raided the cave on Koh Talu in Ao Lueak, Krabi after they found that the cave is part of an area of a company who received a concession to produce and farm bird nets.

Two men died from their injuries after stepping on mines along the shores of a nearby island last week that was also being used for the farming of bird nests.

Officers found 44 year old Chocknapat Khunkam and an 18 year old teenager in the cave. They told police that they had been hired to guard and protect the bird nets inside the cave.

Police also found bomb-making equipment inside the cave. The two men told police they didn’t know anything about that equipment. They have now been taken to Ao Lueak Police Station where they were charged with illegal possession of bombs and ammunition. Police are continuing their investigation.

At this stage police believe that items seized might be linked to the mine explosions at a bird’s-nest concession island in Phang Nga bay last week.

Swiftlet houses for farming bird nests

Traditionally birds nests have been harvested from caves in Southeast Asia. The edible nests are produced by swiftlets (Aerodramus spp.).

In the past decade or so, bird houses or swiflet farms have been popping up all over, especially in Indonesia and Malaysia.

Some of these are in old houses and buildings which have been adapted.
This was one of the first houses I saw in Malaysia, just outside of Ipoh, in 2004

Then I realised there were a couple of adapted places in Brickfields in KL

and the same block shop houses, but at the opposite end, where the top floor has been converted behind the Sri Kota supermarket (2007)

This one is in Ipoh, again the top floor has been converted

This one is in Sandakan in Sabah, 2007

In towns it is easy to know when you are near a swiftlet house due to the loud recordings of the bird calls, played constantly.

These photos were taken in Kpg Koh near Sitiawan in Perak in 2011. Sitiawan was one of the first towns to start swiftlet farming in a big way.

Many of these buildings are bird houses and they are protected by barbed wire and other 'obstacles'.

Other bird houses are in purpose built structures. These are particulary noticable in rural areas, usually a huge concrete building with no windows.

This is at Linggi in Negeri Sembilan

This was one of the first I saw, 2002, it is Java, Indonesia

This one is near Betong in Pahang

This house in Papan in Perak is under construction. It is totally out of character of the old houses in Papan and will probably be an eye sore

See more on my website.

© Liz Price
No reproduction without permission

Bira area, south Sulawesi

During the 1994 English caving expedition to Sulawesi in Indonesia, after caving in Tanah Toraja, we drove south and visited Gua Mampu which is the longest cave in south Sulawesi.

We then drove on to Bira, which is at the very southeast tip of Sulawesi. This area reminded me of the Burren in Ireland, with big black limestone rocks, which looked volcanic.

We asked locals about caves and were told of Gua Janggut in the hill behind Bira Beach. Janggut means beard, and I wondered if the locals gave the cave this name cos of Tony Jarratt's beard!!! JRat is sitting in front centre

It is a through cave. The entrance chamber is full of very soft guano. Inside are birds nests - not the edible variety as some had blue string in them.

A climb leads up and out to the other entrance.

Outside the cave is a collection of shells, presumably a midden.

Bira Beach

We then went on to Ara, which is about 14 km north of Bira along the east coast. We went to the beach park and walked along the track to Gua Passohara. This is basically a large collapsed chamber going down to a clear pool. It looked great with the sun shining on it.

The 2 Tonys went for a swim

Looking into the cave

The caving team

© Liz Price
No reproduction without permission

Madai Caves hidden depths - Star

STAR Weekend
Saturday July 3, 2010


Exploring the hidden depths

By LIZ PRICE



The Madai Cave proves to have interesting treasures outside, as well as inside.


To reach the main entrance to Madai Cave, you have to walk through a dark tunnel where there is a grave of an unknown person. None of the villagers know who was buried there.


Then you pop out of the tunnel and are surprised to see a cluster of wooden houses in front of the entrance. These belong to the nest collectors, the guardians of the cave.


Madai Cave is not as well known as the nearby Gomantong Caves in Sabah, or the caves in Gunung Mulu National Park in Sarawak. However, Madai has long been an important site for the birds’ nest collectors and is slowly becoming better known to tourists who are looking for adventure.

Leisurely life: A young villager does what comes naturally to him, chill.


Situated between Lahad Datu and Tawau, the hill containing Madai Cave rises steeply from the forest floor. It can be seen from far away, and you get tantalising views of it standing above the oil palm plantations. The final approach is interesting as you drive down a steep hill into the kampung.


A collection of wooden houses line both sides of the road, and the cliff acts as a scenic backdrop. You can see the gaping mouth of the cave from here. There is little activity in the village, except for women carrying buckets walking to and from the river to do the washing.


As we were on a research trip, we already had a guide arranged. We followed him along the narrow path between the houses. I was surprised to turn a corner and see a new mosque in the centre of the village. A collection of children appeared from the various houses, curious to see the Mat Salleh (Caucasian) visitors in their village.


However, none actually followed us up the staircase to the cave tunnel.


We assembled at the houses outside the main upper entrance. Washing was hanging out to dry, and there were wooden tables and benches in the central area. There is also another grave. This one supposedly belongs to Nenek Apui, who was one of the earliest inhabitants here.


There are more than 25 caves in this area, but Madai is the biggest and best known. It has a long history. The caves were first visited by scientists 60 years ago. They reported that the phosphate deposits from the bat and swiftlet guano were collected for use as fertiliser. However, a far older industry is birds’ nest collection. The local Idahan people have had the rights for collecting for many generations.



One of the houses near the Madai Cave.

The harvesting of birds’ nests is a well-known industry throughout Borneo. There are many limestone caves which are home to the swiftlets that build the edible nests. And nowadays, swiftlet farming is becoming a big business, whereby existing buildings are converted in “bird hotels”, and in some places new purpose-built structures are being constructed.


There is an ever increasing demand for birds’ nests for the culinary and medicinal markets.


In Madai, the collection is controlled by the villagers who own the rights. The houses at the cave entrance are mainly used during the collecting seasons. The locals are the guardians of the birds’ nests and use the buildings for sleeping and for guarding the caves to keep out unauthorised people.


Walking into the cave, I was struck by how big it was.


The ceiling is really high, maybe 130m, and the chambers are large. There are several openings high in the roof which allow a small amount of daylight to enter.


The boardwalk soon ended, and we were walking in guano. It was really quite slippery walking across these sticky, wet droppings, deposited by bats and birds. If you didn’t watch every step, it was easy to sink ankle-deep in this gooey waste.


And there were lots of small cockroaches running around in the guano, feeding on smaller invertebrates. Quite often, I had to brush them off my legs as they climbed up. All around I could hear the clicking of the swiftlets and chirping of insects.


There were a few swiftlets on the floor, and although they presented a good photo opportunity, it was sad to know they would not survive.

But in turn they would help to support the food chain within the cave.


I was quite surprised at the number of men inside the cave, considering it wasn’t yet collecting season. The collection is controlled and restricted to twice a year so as not to deplete the swiftlet population. There were few ladders hanging in the cave, but more would be installed when the collection began.


There are also one or two huts deep inside the cave, used by the collectors for rest and relaxation during the collecting season.


From this part of the cave, we slithered our way down to the lower river passage, where the river comes pouring out of the hill.


This was quite a spectacular sight as there are not many river caves in Malaysia. We were able to explore inside for a short distance. The cave is also an archaeological site. Pottery and stone tools have been found, dating back 8,000 years.


Pleistocene mammal fauna have also been found, showing that large mammals roamed the area all those years ago.


Madai Cave was used during one of the stages of one of the world’s toughest endurance race, the Eco-Challenge Sabah 2000, when participants had to climb the rattan ladders. The cave is certainly worth a visit if you are in that part of Sabah. However, bear in mind that it is not freely accessible to casual visitors — you need to get permission, and a guide from the village.


It’s worth the effort, though, if you are interested in seeing this little visited piece of Sabah’s history and nature.



Madai Cave

Getting there



Madai Cave is located between Lahad Datu and Tawau, near Kunak. Kunak is roughly 80km from Tawau. Turn off the Lahad Datu-Tawau highway at 69 km from Lahad Datu. Watch out for the signpost to Gua Madai. From the turn-off, it is about 2km to the village.



All buses between Lahad Datu and Semporna or Tawau will pass the turn-off to the caves. If you are lucky, you may be able to find a minivan to take you to the cave. But be prepared to walk back up to the highway on your return.



Permission



To get permission, it’s best to go to the District Office in Lahad Datu town. Alternatively, you can go to the Forest Dept in Kunak. You can also make arrangements with the Idahan elders in Madai village. They will arrange a guide, for which you should negotiate the fee payable.



Accommodation



Unless you happen to be passing close to the caves, it’s best to visit as a day trip from Lahad Datu and Semporna or Tawau, where there is a choice of accommodation.

Madai Caves - Brunei Times

Local tribesfolk nestling among the Madai Caves

Brunei Times 27 Sept 2009

A river runs through it: The Madai Cave is one of very few in the region to have a river running through it.

The Madai Caves are not as well known as the nearby Gomantong Caves in Sabah, or the caves in Gunung Mulu National Park in Sarawak.

However, Madai has long been an important area for birds' nest collectors and is now becoming better known among tourists looking for adventure.

Situated between Lahad Datu and Tawau, the hill containing Madai Cave itself rises steeply from the forest floor. There are more than 25 caves in this area, but Madai is the biggest and best known. The caves were first visited 60 years ago by scientists who noted how the phosphate deposits from the bat and swiftlet guano were collected and used as a fertiliser.

Madai village

A much older industry is that of birds' nest collection. The local Idahan people have had the rights for collecting birds' nests in the area for generations.

Harvesting birds' nests is a well known industry throughout Borneo, which features many limestone caves that are home to the swiftlets that build the edible nests.

Swiftlet farming is becoming big business. Existing buildings are being converted to bird "hotels", and in some places new purpose-built structures are being constructed. The demand for birds' nests has continued to soar over recent years, especially for the culinary and medicinal markets.

In Madai, the collection of birds' nests is controlled by the villagers who own the rights. As you walk to the cave you pass through Madai village. The locals are the guardians of the birds' nests, and during the collecting season they can offer a place for the nest collectors to stay. There is even a small mosque in the village.

A staircase leads up to one of the entrances. First, you walk through a dark tunnel where there is a grave of an unknown person. This passage leads to the cave entrance, where there are a few houses, used by the men who guard and collect the nests.

house used by nest collectors

There is also another grave. This one supposedly belongs to "Nenek Apui", who was one of the earliest inhabitants here.

grave

Walking into the cave, I was struck by how impressive it is. The ceiling is about 130 metres above, and the chambers are large. There are several openings high in the roof that allow a small amount of daylight to enter.

The floor is covered in guano and it was actually quite slippery walking across the sticky, wet droppings.

There were also lots of small cockroaches running around in the guano, feeding on smaller invertebrates. All around I could hear the clicking of the swiftlets and chirping of insects.

There were a few swiftlets on the floor, and although they presented a good photo opportunity it was sad to know they would not survive.

I was quite surprised at the number of men inside the cave, considering it was not yet collecting season.

The collection is controlled and restricted to twice a year, so as not to deplete the swiftlet population.

There were few ladders hanging in the cave, but more will be installed when the collection begins.

From this part of the cave we went down to the lower river passage, where the river comes pouring out of the hill. This was quite a spectacular sight as there are not many river caves in Malaysia.

We were able to explore inside for a short distance.

Madai Cave was even used in one of the stages of one of the world's toughest endurance race, the Eco-Challenge Sabah 2000, when participants had to climb the rattan ladders.

If you want to visit Madai Cave, it is best to get permission from the District Office in Lahad Datu town, otherwise you have to make arrangements with the Idahan elders.

The cave is certainly worth a visit if you are in that part of Sabah.
The Brunei Times

© Liz Price
No reproduction without permission
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See more photos on Madai album.
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Madai Caves, Sabah

resurgence entrance

Madai Caves in Sabah are famous for the collection of birds nests, as well as being an archaeological site. The collection of nests is controlled by the local Idahan community, who have held for rights to the cave for generations. I was there just before the collecting season started (July 2007) so there were no ladders to see. They collect the nests two times a year.
Archaeological remains dating to around 20,000 years have been found. There are two modern tombs of unknown people.
Madai is accessible from Lahad Datu or Tawau, and is near Kunak.

The village

 House in cave entrance

 tomb

 rubbish

 swiftlet

See my article on Madai.

© Liz Price
No reproduction without permission