This was published in Axbridge Caving Group journal - April 2005 , p10
RULES OF CAVING
Liz Price
The Malaysian Karst Society published a list of Rules of Caving in its newsletter. Rule No 9 tells you not to urinate in a cave, the reason being, wait for it ..............that you might upset the spirits of the cave.
This follows the Malaysian belief that if you have a pee outdoors, you should always ask the spirits permission first, or at least warn them that you are about to pollute their territory.
CAVING WITH SPIRIT HUNTERS
Liz Price
In 2001 I visited Gua Cinta Manis (Sweet Love Cave) which is near Karak in Pahang, Malaysia, in a completely isolated limestone outcrop. The cave is basically one huge chamber with a couple of side chambers leading off, the only obstacle being a 15m pitch covered in guano. Whilst we were preparing to descend, a group of 5 Indians turned up. Barefoot and dressed only in lungis (sarongs), with seed and bead necklaces and ash markings on their faces, they slung an ancient hemp rope down the pitch and proceeded to descend hand over hand. Then they lowered their heavy bags. Luckily one of our group was Indian and could ask these guys what they were doing. It turned out they were looking for a spirit. These Hindus (and indeed most Malaysians) believe that spirits are everywhere, and one of the men wanted a spirit at home in his house. So they went to the cave to see if they could find one spirit willing to move to the man's house.
The 'bomoh' or shaman was conducting the proceedings and they were making offerings of fruit, lighting incense sticks and burning camphor. Whilst going into a trance the bomoh lit a piece of camphor on his tongue but didn't seem affected by the flame or heat. Maybe he had been imbibing alcoholic spirits beforehand and was immune to the pain!
The group intended to spend at least one week in the cave, going all around to look for a suitable spirit. We were a bit worried about their safety as they had few torches between them and intended to do one or two tricky climbs up slippery walls. For the pitch we had our full SRT gear and safety backups, they had an old knotted rope. I only hope they got up their knotted rope alright after one week in the cave. No doubt the spirits helped them.
-----------------
© Liz Price
No reproduction without permission
sign in a cave in Laos
29 August 2008
23 August 2008
Phuket canoeing Phang Nga - Star
THE STAR Lifestyle
Saturday March 6, 2004
Secret garden on the sea
Story & Pictures by LIZ PRICE
Have you ever tried to take a photo of a moving bird whilst bobbing up and down in a canoe? I can assure you, it’s not easy.
The sea was a bit choppy. As I paddled out of the cave, a Pacific reef egret was wading in the shallows of the cave entrance, looking for lunch. I am not a birder, but it was a good opportunity to take a shot of the bird at such close quarters.
Framing my avian subject would be the stunning views of the nearby limestone islands. The karst towers rose from the Andaman Sea like stately sentinels, and the reds and browns of the rocks were quite a contrast against the blue sky and green sea. It was certainly a picture postcard scene.
The yellow kayaks bobbing on the sea looked like bananas which had broken loose from the bunch.
Nature’s art gallery
The National Marine Park of Phang Nga Bay in southern Thailand is a natural art gallery, full of magnificent limestone islands. I was lucky enough to have a window seat as the plane flew over this amazing bay on its approach to Phuket’s international airport.
There were dozens of islands dotted around – some large and some small – and all surrounded by water the shade of blues and greens.
Dozens of boats take tourists each day to this area. James Bond Island, or Ko Phing Kan was made famous when the area was used for filming The Man with the Golden Gun. I decided to be a bit different and do a sea canoe trip to the cave hongs.
Hong is the Thai word for room. Basically these hongs are inland open-air tidal lagoons, surrounded by sheer limestone cliffs. The only way in and out is through the caves. If the cave is quite low, the route through may only be open for about 20 minutes a day, during low tide. Once the tide is high, the cave, or certainly the entrance, will be underwater.
I was picked up early morning from my hotel in Phuket town and taken by car to Por Pier on the eastern side of the island. Here, I joined the other paddlers and we were given a brief introduction before being taken out to the pier.
During the hour’s journey to our first destination, we had coffee and lots of fresh fruit whilst being briefed. The guide was very knowledgeable and showered us with lots of information.
It was surprisingly chilly as the boat sped along and I was a bit dubious about having to get into the water. I needn’t have worried because by the time we arrived at Hong Island, the sun was shining.
Cave monster legends
The beauty of the place kept me busy with the camera. As the guides launched all the yellow kayaks into the sea, they looked like bananas which had broken loose from the bunch. My guide Rambo manoeuvred up to the steps of the boat so I could get into the kayak, and then we were speedily paddling to the cave entrance.
After the initial low entrance, the cave roof rose and was high above our heads. The water lapping against the cave walls cause an eerie sound. I could see why legends tell of cave monsters and mysterious beings lurking in the caves.
My torch picked out some stalagmites and stalactites. Ahead of us the roof suddenly lowered and the walls closed in leaving a gap not much larger than the kayak. I had to lie flat on my back in the kayak to avoid scraping my nose on the roof. I was glad I didn’t have to paddle through this section.
The green of the Andaman Sea against the blue sky provided a picture postcard setting for the stately limestone islands
We popped out in to a hong and gasped in wonder. It was beautiful.
We were surrounded by sheer limestone walls that rose about 100m above our heads, capped by green vegetation. It was like a secret garden, except the floor was sea.
The grey and white cliff faces were streaked with red, orange and black striations. Green pandanus and other palms and shrubs clung to the precipitous walls. A few birds called, but otherwise it was silent. A lost world. We paddled around the hong, admiring its beauty, before returning to the pitch black of the cave.
Like a frozen waterfall
The next hong we visited was equally beautiful; in fact maybe more so as there were mangrove trees. It was fun paddling around the mangroves with their serpentine roots.
The guide spotted a young monitor lizard basking on a rock. It was obviously used to seeing humans for it took no notice.
The third cave of the day contained some beautiful stalactites, and a glistening white cascade of calcite crystals resembling a frozen waterfall. And in the secret lagoon, we spotted a troop of young macaques.
They were playing in the branches just a few metres above the water, so we were able to paddle right underneath them. This was a silly move as the monkeys suddenly decided to let loose a golden shower. I could imagine them laughing to themselves and wondered if they did this to all the visitors. There was no sign of the adults, maybe they were watching from some higher vantage point.
Swooping kites
We returned to the boat and had a scrumptious lunch of fresh fish, chicken curry, tempura and Thai-style soup. I was afraid to overeat in case I sank when I went swimming, but the food was so delicious that I had to have a second helping. We were not the only ones to enjoy the meal – the cook threw scraps of chicken overboard and suddenly the sky was full of Brahminy kites.
These scavengers appeared from nowhere and soon there was a dozen or more, mewing and eyeing up the feast. They began swooping down and plucking scraps of meat from the water. I tried many times to get a photo of them but every time the shutter clicked, the bird had already flown and all I had was a picture of the empty sea or sky. But it was an amazing sight to see so many of these birds so close up.
Colonies of bats
Our next cave was appropriately called Bat Cave. Deep inside were a few colonies of insect-eating bats. They seemed oblivious of our presence, which was a good sign as it meant that the daily visits by the kayaks don’t appear to disturb them. There are several tour companies running these kayak trips daily, but luckily they all take note of the eco-tourism rules and do their best not to damage the environment.
We then had some free time for swimming and kayaking. However, most lazed on the boat, still full from the huge lunch. I tried swimming but the current was very strong where we were moored. It was fun being swept along with the flow but hard work swimming back to the boat.
When we got back to Por Pier the tide was right out, so we had to walk the last 100m through gooey mangrove mud to reach the jetty. Luckily, there was fresh water to rinse our feet and legs before boarding the transport back to our hotels.
It had been a great day and a fascinating experience. W
FOR BOOKINGS
There are several tour operators running these and other kayak tours around the Phuket and Phang Nga Bay areas.
The writer opted to go with John Gray’s Sea Canoe as she had done a tour with them some time ago.
They are the original company and have been operating since 1983. The guides are all trained in cave kayaking, lifesaving, and speak good English.
John Gray’s Sea Canoe
124, Soi 1 Yaowarad Road
Muang, Phuket
Thailand
Tel : (6676) 254505-7
Fax : (6676) 226077
Website: http://www.johngray-seacanoe.com
They also have offices in Phang Nga, Krabi, etc, and the tours can also be booked through most of the tour agents in the Phuket / Phang Nga area.
Saturday March 6, 2004
Secret garden on the sea
Story & Pictures by LIZ PRICE
Have you ever tried to take a photo of a moving bird whilst bobbing up and down in a canoe? I can assure you, it’s not easy.
The sea was a bit choppy. As I paddled out of the cave, a Pacific reef egret was wading in the shallows of the cave entrance, looking for lunch. I am not a birder, but it was a good opportunity to take a shot of the bird at such close quarters.
Framing my avian subject would be the stunning views of the nearby limestone islands. The karst towers rose from the Andaman Sea like stately sentinels, and the reds and browns of the rocks were quite a contrast against the blue sky and green sea. It was certainly a picture postcard scene.
The yellow kayaks bobbing on the sea looked like bananas which had broken loose from the bunch.
Nature’s art gallery
The National Marine Park of Phang Nga Bay in southern Thailand is a natural art gallery, full of magnificent limestone islands. I was lucky enough to have a window seat as the plane flew over this amazing bay on its approach to Phuket’s international airport.
There were dozens of islands dotted around – some large and some small – and all surrounded by water the shade of blues and greens.
Dozens of boats take tourists each day to this area. James Bond Island, or Ko Phing Kan was made famous when the area was used for filming The Man with the Golden Gun. I decided to be a bit different and do a sea canoe trip to the cave hongs.
Hong is the Thai word for room. Basically these hongs are inland open-air tidal lagoons, surrounded by sheer limestone cliffs. The only way in and out is through the caves. If the cave is quite low, the route through may only be open for about 20 minutes a day, during low tide. Once the tide is high, the cave, or certainly the entrance, will be underwater.
I was picked up early morning from my hotel in Phuket town and taken by car to Por Pier on the eastern side of the island. Here, I joined the other paddlers and we were given a brief introduction before being taken out to the pier.
During the hour’s journey to our first destination, we had coffee and lots of fresh fruit whilst being briefed. The guide was very knowledgeable and showered us with lots of information.
It was surprisingly chilly as the boat sped along and I was a bit dubious about having to get into the water. I needn’t have worried because by the time we arrived at Hong Island, the sun was shining.
Cave monster legends
The beauty of the place kept me busy with the camera. As the guides launched all the yellow kayaks into the sea, they looked like bananas which had broken loose from the bunch. My guide Rambo manoeuvred up to the steps of the boat so I could get into the kayak, and then we were speedily paddling to the cave entrance.
After the initial low entrance, the cave roof rose and was high above our heads. The water lapping against the cave walls cause an eerie sound. I could see why legends tell of cave monsters and mysterious beings lurking in the caves.
My torch picked out some stalagmites and stalactites. Ahead of us the roof suddenly lowered and the walls closed in leaving a gap not much larger than the kayak. I had to lie flat on my back in the kayak to avoid scraping my nose on the roof. I was glad I didn’t have to paddle through this section.
The green of the Andaman Sea against the blue sky provided a picture postcard setting for the stately limestone islands
We popped out in to a hong and gasped in wonder. It was beautiful.
We were surrounded by sheer limestone walls that rose about 100m above our heads, capped by green vegetation. It was like a secret garden, except the floor was sea.
The grey and white cliff faces were streaked with red, orange and black striations. Green pandanus and other palms and shrubs clung to the precipitous walls. A few birds called, but otherwise it was silent. A lost world. We paddled around the hong, admiring its beauty, before returning to the pitch black of the cave.
Like a frozen waterfall
The next hong we visited was equally beautiful; in fact maybe more so as there were mangrove trees. It was fun paddling around the mangroves with their serpentine roots.
The guide spotted a young monitor lizard basking on a rock. It was obviously used to seeing humans for it took no notice.
The third cave of the day contained some beautiful stalactites, and a glistening white cascade of calcite crystals resembling a frozen waterfall. And in the secret lagoon, we spotted a troop of young macaques.
They were playing in the branches just a few metres above the water, so we were able to paddle right underneath them. This was a silly move as the monkeys suddenly decided to let loose a golden shower. I could imagine them laughing to themselves and wondered if they did this to all the visitors. There was no sign of the adults, maybe they were watching from some higher vantage point.
Swooping kites
We returned to the boat and had a scrumptious lunch of fresh fish, chicken curry, tempura and Thai-style soup. I was afraid to overeat in case I sank when I went swimming, but the food was so delicious that I had to have a second helping. We were not the only ones to enjoy the meal – the cook threw scraps of chicken overboard and suddenly the sky was full of Brahminy kites.
These scavengers appeared from nowhere and soon there was a dozen or more, mewing and eyeing up the feast. They began swooping down and plucking scraps of meat from the water. I tried many times to get a photo of them but every time the shutter clicked, the bird had already flown and all I had was a picture of the empty sea or sky. But it was an amazing sight to see so many of these birds so close up.
Colonies of bats
Our next cave was appropriately called Bat Cave. Deep inside were a few colonies of insect-eating bats. They seemed oblivious of our presence, which was a good sign as it meant that the daily visits by the kayaks don’t appear to disturb them. There are several tour companies running these kayak trips daily, but luckily they all take note of the eco-tourism rules and do their best not to damage the environment.
We then had some free time for swimming and kayaking. However, most lazed on the boat, still full from the huge lunch. I tried swimming but the current was very strong where we were moored. It was fun being swept along with the flow but hard work swimming back to the boat.
When we got back to Por Pier the tide was right out, so we had to walk the last 100m through gooey mangrove mud to reach the jetty. Luckily, there was fresh water to rinse our feet and legs before boarding the transport back to our hotels.
It had been a great day and a fascinating experience. W
FOR BOOKINGS
There are several tour operators running these and other kayak tours around the Phuket and Phang Nga Bay areas.
The writer opted to go with John Gray’s Sea Canoe as she had done a tour with them some time ago.
They are the original company and have been operating since 1983. The guides are all trained in cave kayaking, lifesaving, and speak good English.
John Gray’s Sea Canoe
124, Soi 1 Yaowarad Road
Muang, Phuket
Thailand
Tel : (6676) 254505-7
Fax : (6676) 226077
Website: http://www.johngray-seacanoe.com
They also have offices in Phang Nga, Krabi, etc, and the tours can also be booked through most of the tour agents in the Phuket / Phang Nga area.
Sg. Lembing tin mine museum - Star
(These photos were stolen and published with the article on VirtualTourist.com]
THE STAR Lifestyle
Saturday, June 28, 2003
Sg. Lembing’s golden years of ore
The Sg. Lembing tin mine, among the world’s largest and deepest, once earned Pahang the name ‘El-Dorado of the East’. LIZ PRICE pays a visit to the museum that records its history.
IMAGINE going to work each day, stepping into a cage big enough to hold half a dozen men and plummeting to the bowels of the earth.
This was how the miners of Sg. Lembing tin mine reached their workplace each day. They would then spend six hours underground, extracting the tin ore from the main lode. At the end of their shift, the lift would transport them back to the surface and daylight and fresh air. For those six hours of subterranean work, they were paid $40-$44 in 1950.
The Sg. Lembing tin mine in Pahang was reputed to be among the world’s largest and deepest. The total tunnel length is 322km, with a depth of between 610m and 700m. Tok Tangguk, who was possibly from Cambodia, was an outstanding figure in the history and opening of the mine.
Mining began in the 19th century in 1868 when Sultan Ahmad signed a concession with Baba Ah Sam. From 1891, the Pahang Consolidated Company Limited, (PCCL), which was under British control, had a 77-year lease to mine the area. It is a reminder of the lengths the British would go to to make some money from the remote areas. PCCL managed the mine from 1906 until its liquidation in 1986 when world tin prices collapsed.
Up to 1942 the mine employed 1,350 personnel, of whom half worked underground. Today the old buildings and surface workings lie rusting and silent, and there is little to show of this once bustling place.
However, a new museum has been set up to re-live the glorious days of Sg. Lembing as Pahang’s richest manufacturer of tin. Its objective is to publicise the history and exhibit relics from the mine.
The museum is housed in a refurbished bungalow, once home to the mine’s general manager. The almost century-old building is perched on a small hill with stunning views of the hills which surround Sg. Lembing.
The Pahang state government renovated the bungalow, about 40km northwest of Kuantan, and collected artifacts to place in the museum. The original facade of the building was preserved, despite the difficulty in getting custom-made wood panelling and other necessary materials.
Let's play cricket
Sg. Lembing is said to get its name because during the rainy season the water surface looks like spear-points flowing in the river. The river in those days was probably much deeper, as today much silt has accumulated. The town is now likened to a ghost town, but was rich and famous during its heyday as the main producer of tin in Pahang. It was known as the El-Dorado of the East.
The town straddles the river, and the main street on the right bank is split by an avenue of majestic trees. At the end, an old wooden building overlooks the padang where games of cricket and other social activities were held. PCCL was responsible for the care of the township, providing the roads, electricity, schools and healthcare. Old photos in the museum depict cricket matches and people cycling across the field.
Pit mining was not common in Malaysia as it was both dangerous and costly. But in Sg. Lembing there was sufficient tin to justify the costs. There were two main mines. Myah Mine is 700m deep, and Tabeto Mine 488m. The mines were dug on many levels, with about 30m of rock between the tunnels. Miners dug into the rock face and broke the stones using iron hammers. The lumps of ore would be put into railway carts, which were taken up to the surface by lift.
For lighting the men used carbide lights, until they were replaced in later years by personal electric lights. The battery pack was worn around the waist and connected by a cable to the headpiece mounted on the helmet. These lamps are still used by miners around the world today.
The museum is on two floors and has a fine display of artifacts. The artifacts are arranged according to historical chronology and events. Visitors can see how the ore was extracted and brought to the surface. It was then filtered and sent to the smelter. Interesting items include a drilling machine, railway track, safety helmet and lamps as well as communication equipment.
Upstairs, there is a display of gems, minerals and rocks, with explanations on the geology. There are mining memoirs, and a room laid out as was used by visiting VIPs in those days, as well as the general manager’s bedroom and bathroom.
A few panels highlight individuals closely connected to Sg. Lembing mining such as Sultan Abu Bakar, Tok Janggut and W.W. Abel. Outside the building are a few more items of mining equipment, as well as a Mini Mox car which was used by the managers.
The museum officially opens in June, when it is expected to have underground tours for visitors. The visits will be restricted to areas close to the surface as today all the deeper levels are now flooded.
Other tourist spots
Apart from Sg. Lembing’s museum, there are other nearby attractions as the area is endowed with mountains, waterfalls, and rivers. It is worth climbing Bukit Panorama, especially to see the glorious sunrise over the surrounding green hill slopes. Many visitors come here just to do this, especially at weekends, and liven up the otherwise dead town. However logging activities are having a detrimental effect on the eastern hills of Sg. Lembing.
Some 16km from Sg. Lembing is Gunung Tapis Nature Park, where one can camp, fish, and shoot the rapids. Gunung Tapis itself is 1,512m high. On the way to Sg. Lembing is Gua Charas, a temple cave that is a popular tourist destination. Sungai Pandan Waterfall, 29km from Kuantan, is easily accessible from the road and is a nice place for a picnic. W
The museum opens Tuesdays to Sundays 9am-5pm; Fridays, 9am-noon, 2pm-5pm. Closed Mondays. Admission is free.
Muzium Sungai Lembing
26200 Kuantan, Pahang.
Tel: (09) 541 2377/8
Fax: (09) 541 2377
Perak Man exhibition KL 2006 - Star
THE STAR
L I F E S T Y L E Focus
Saturday August 19, 2006
[Also stolen and published on AsiaValley Holidays
http://www.asiavalley.com/Articles.htm#Saturday%20August%2019 ]
Going back in time
Story and pictures by LIZ PRICE
Malaysia’s oldest inhabitant, Perak Man, is back in Kuala Lumpur. A special exhibition is being dedicated to him at the National Museum as part of the Festival Kuala Lumpur 2006.
Perak Man is an 11,000-year-old human skeleton which was found in Gua Gunung Runtuh in Lenggong, Perak in May 1990. It is the only complete late Paleolithic skeleton to have been found and is an important piece of Malaysia’s prehistory.
The month-long exhibition is designed to be informative in an entertaining way and it certainly works. As you enter the building, which is constructed to represent the mouth of Gua Gunung Runtuh, you are greeted by an animated talking skeleton.
The Perak Man exhibition is on again in Kuala Lumpur at the National Museum, until Aug 31.
Walking through a dark passage, you go past a series of exhibits and tableaux depicting scenes from 10,000 years ago. The first one shows Perak Man on his death bed, surrounded by friends or relatives. Research shows he died from a severe tooth infection. I saw the skeletons move, some of which had flashing red eyes. It’s great for the kids.
Perak Man suffered from a rare congenital deformity but living amongst a close-knit community meant he had people to care for him when he could no longer hunt or look after himself. He was only in his 40s when he died, which was probably a good age for that era.
Perak Man has been dated at 10,000 to11,000 years old. However, evidence of human activity in the Lenggong Valley dates back more than 100,000 years. This area could well have been the capital of Malaysia in those days.
The next scene shows the burial rites. It is suggested that Perak Man was an important member of his tribe as his burial was performed ceremonially. He was buried in a fetal position, with legs folded up to the chest, the right hand bent up towards the shoulder and the left hand on the abdomen. The body was placed in a one metre-deep grave perpendicular to the cave entrance.
For the researchers from Universiti Sains Malaysia, led by Prof Datuk Zuraina Majid, it was a dream come true that the Paleolithic burial was done so meticulously and was well-preserved. The skeleton was almost complete, except for some missing bones.
Offerings of food such as meat and riverine shells were found with the body, as well as 10 different types of tools. The tools could have been Perak Man’s own collection. As a final touch, 2,878 shells were placed on and around the body.
There is a slide show in Bahasa Malaysia giving a brief outline of the discovery and showing the types of food eaten in those days.
Perak Man and his relatives were hunter gatherers. They hunted wild animals like wild boar, deer, mousedeer, leopard, monkeys, iguanas and tortoise.
To supplement their meat diet, they gathered plants and riverine shells for food and medicine.
A re-enactment of Perak Man’s burial.
They used stone tools for their daily activities. Pebble tools were used for heavy duty work such as chopping trees, splitting bones and snipping the tips off shells. Flake tools were used to cut and scrape meat, and to sharpen wood and bone to make new tools. There is a display of stone tools and models of how they were used.
Further along is a selection of push button displays, but unfortunately, the buttons were not working.
The next section is devoted to research. There was analysis on the faunal remains, which gives some information on the animals eaten, the hunting skills, as well as the climate and environment.
Perak Man was exhibited in Japan from Sept 7 to Nov 24, 1996. A display case houses a replica of Perak Man’s skeleton, the original is housed at the Lenggong Museum.
As you turn the corner, you are invited to insert a card into a slot. At first nothing happens, then there is a rumbling sound and suddenly a motorbike driven by two skeletons heads towards you, with a background scene of modern KL. I’ve never seen so many mechanical talking skeletons outside of a fairground!
The last section houses half a dozen computers on which you can answer 20 questions relating to Perak Man. The computers, as well all the film clips are only in Bahasa Malaysia, so the exhibition seems to be designed more for locals than for foreigners.
USM vice-chancellor Prof Datuk Dzulkifli Abdul Razak and Prof Datuk Zuraina Majid with the book Perak Man and Other Prehistoric Skeletons of Malaysia
Finally, there is a feature on a new book entitled Perak Man and Other Prehistoric Skeletons of Malaysia, edited by Zuraina. The book is available for sale.
This exhibition is great for anyone interested in Malaysia’s prehistory and is guaranteed to grab the attention of kids with the animated skeletons and detailed tableaux. The exhibition ends on Aug 31. W
The exhibition is housed in the National Museum annexe. Opening hours are from 9am-6pm daily. Admission is free, but there is a parking fee of RM2.
L I F E S T Y L E Focus
Saturday August 19, 2006
[Also stolen and published on AsiaValley Holidays
http://www.asiavalley.com/Articles.htm#Saturday%20August%2019 ]
Going back in time
Story and pictures by LIZ PRICE
Malaysia’s oldest inhabitant, Perak Man, is back in Kuala Lumpur. A special exhibition is being dedicated to him at the National Museum as part of the Festival Kuala Lumpur 2006.
Perak Man is an 11,000-year-old human skeleton which was found in Gua Gunung Runtuh in Lenggong, Perak in May 1990. It is the only complete late Paleolithic skeleton to have been found and is an important piece of Malaysia’s prehistory.
The month-long exhibition is designed to be informative in an entertaining way and it certainly works. As you enter the building, which is constructed to represent the mouth of Gua Gunung Runtuh, you are greeted by an animated talking skeleton.
The Perak Man exhibition is on again in Kuala Lumpur at the National Museum, until Aug 31.
Walking through a dark passage, you go past a series of exhibits and tableaux depicting scenes from 10,000 years ago. The first one shows Perak Man on his death bed, surrounded by friends or relatives. Research shows he died from a severe tooth infection. I saw the skeletons move, some of which had flashing red eyes. It’s great for the kids.
Perak Man suffered from a rare congenital deformity but living amongst a close-knit community meant he had people to care for him when he could no longer hunt or look after himself. He was only in his 40s when he died, which was probably a good age for that era.
Perak Man has been dated at 10,000 to11,000 years old. However, evidence of human activity in the Lenggong Valley dates back more than 100,000 years. This area could well have been the capital of Malaysia in those days.
The next scene shows the burial rites. It is suggested that Perak Man was an important member of his tribe as his burial was performed ceremonially. He was buried in a fetal position, with legs folded up to the chest, the right hand bent up towards the shoulder and the left hand on the abdomen. The body was placed in a one metre-deep grave perpendicular to the cave entrance.
For the researchers from Universiti Sains Malaysia, led by Prof Datuk Zuraina Majid, it was a dream come true that the Paleolithic burial was done so meticulously and was well-preserved. The skeleton was almost complete, except for some missing bones.
Offerings of food such as meat and riverine shells were found with the body, as well as 10 different types of tools. The tools could have been Perak Man’s own collection. As a final touch, 2,878 shells were placed on and around the body.
There is a slide show in Bahasa Malaysia giving a brief outline of the discovery and showing the types of food eaten in those days.
Perak Man and his relatives were hunter gatherers. They hunted wild animals like wild boar, deer, mousedeer, leopard, monkeys, iguanas and tortoise.
To supplement their meat diet, they gathered plants and riverine shells for food and medicine.
A re-enactment of Perak Man’s burial.
They used stone tools for their daily activities. Pebble tools were used for heavy duty work such as chopping trees, splitting bones and snipping the tips off shells. Flake tools were used to cut and scrape meat, and to sharpen wood and bone to make new tools. There is a display of stone tools and models of how they were used.
Further along is a selection of push button displays, but unfortunately, the buttons were not working.
The next section is devoted to research. There was analysis on the faunal remains, which gives some information on the animals eaten, the hunting skills, as well as the climate and environment.
Perak Man was exhibited in Japan from Sept 7 to Nov 24, 1996. A display case houses a replica of Perak Man’s skeleton, the original is housed at the Lenggong Museum.
As you turn the corner, you are invited to insert a card into a slot. At first nothing happens, then there is a rumbling sound and suddenly a motorbike driven by two skeletons heads towards you, with a background scene of modern KL. I’ve never seen so many mechanical talking skeletons outside of a fairground!
The last section houses half a dozen computers on which you can answer 20 questions relating to Perak Man. The computers, as well all the film clips are only in Bahasa Malaysia, so the exhibition seems to be designed more for locals than for foreigners.
USM vice-chancellor Prof Datuk Dzulkifli Abdul Razak and Prof Datuk Zuraina Majid with the book Perak Man and Other Prehistoric Skeletons of Malaysia
Finally, there is a feature on a new book entitled Perak Man and Other Prehistoric Skeletons of Malaysia, edited by Zuraina. The book is available for sale.
This exhibition is great for anyone interested in Malaysia’s prehistory and is guaranteed to grab the attention of kids with the animated skeletons and detailed tableaux. The exhibition ends on Aug 31. W
The exhibition is housed in the National Museum annexe. Opening hours are from 9am-6pm daily. Admission is free, but there is a parking fee of RM2.
Liz in article about Wild Asia
ALL MALAYSIA
Asia in the raw
The first time I checked out the Wildasia website, I thought, “Darn! Whoever created this site beat me to it.” I’d always thought there wasn’t enough information on nature destinations and adventure travels in Asia.
Then, came Wildasia.
The simple homepage, presented in a clear style with nature shots, displays a hotchpotch of articles and facts clumped into different sections. You can browse the guides on natural areas in Malaysia, read travel, adventure and natural history articles, or find out about conservation projects around the region.
Dr Reza Azmi is a biologist who founded the Wildasia website to cater for his interest in nature and travel.
Or, if you’re planning a trip, look up the “travel centre” and get in touch with people who can dole out travel tips or get you in touch with locals in the area. If you’re in a time crunch, you can get a custom-tailored travel itinerary prepared by Wildasia.
Yet, the website is not profit-oriented, as founder Dr Reza Azmi, 34, explained.
“The idea is to get more people outdoors,” said Reza, a conservationist with a background in botany. “We try to get people tuned into the importance of natural areas to help protect and conserve the remaining natural habitats in Asia.”
Wildasia is a platform to share information and help facilitate exploration of these natural areas, he added. The long-term goal is to work closely with the tourism sector, and to develop more responsible tourism principles and practices. For example, the website will back tour operators who support conservation plans that protect the areas they work in.
The site’s history began in 1998. Reza, then based in Sabah, was working on an idea to support small and village-level tourism initiatives.
“At that time, nature tourism in the Kinabatangan area was picking up but the villagers were often left out,” said Reza. “It was a shame as they often made the best nature guides.”
Reza took the initiative to write his own guide to help tourists know more about the Kinabatangan and the villagers who could help visitors with lodging and boat trips. Such information allows tourists to do independent travel and not depend on tour operators, he said.
Setting up a website was a natural progression since it is a cheap platform to disseminate information, Reza said. The website, a prototype named wildborneo.net, generated interest worldwide. Reza began putting up information on other areas and this led to Wildasia.net in 2002.
In the beginning, Wildasia was a one-man show. In addition to his “real job” as a biologist working on research and conservation projects, Reza spent hours churning out articles for the website.
“I sleep, eat, think Wildasia, it’s a 24-hour thing,” confessed Reza who lives with his wife and two family pets in Kuala Lumpur. “But I’m very lucky as my job involves a great deal of travel. Wildasia is an extension of what I do. I use the travel directory before I go on work assignments.
Today, Wildasia holds one of the largest directories of people and organisations involved in conservation and nature/adventure travel.
Over the years, more than 50 of Reza’s friends and colleagues – a bunch of naturalists, biologists, conservationists and writers – have contributed articles, pictures and shared information through the site.
One of Wildasia’s contributors, Liz Price, a cave and karst specialist and freelance writer based in Kuala Lumpur, finds the site a good source of information on many off-the-beaten-track destinations.
“It’s a useful site for facts on nature and travel,” said Price who checks the site weekly or at least once a month. “When I get questions from overseas visitors, it’s good to refer them to the site.”
Tan Chin Tong, 47, an avid Wildasia reader checks out the site at least once a week.
“I enjoy reading the articles – they’re raw and unpolished, just what nature lovers love to read,” said Tan who is based in Ipoh.
“They’re unlike articles (in mass publications) with content beautifully constructed to whet readers’ appetite but full of disappointments when you make the trip.”
But Tan would like to see more articles on Peninsular Malaysia. “There are many hidden beauties known only to a few,” he added.
From design to content, Wildasia is a voluntary effort.
“The Tourism Malaysia award belongs to all the volunteers who helped build Wildasia to what it is today,” stressed Reza.
Though Wildasia receives more than 10,000 visits a day from readers worldwide, Reza is not satisfied. He constantly thinks of ways to improve the site and sees Wildasia’s development as an evolving process.
“But I hope to see more contributors from different parts of Asia getting involved. That would help us cover more natural areas and bring us closer towards our goal,” Reza summed up.
For now, it’s heartening to see our tourism authorities recognise a non-commercial effort on nature tourism writing in Malaysia.
Check out http://www.wildasia.net/
Asia in the raw
The first time I checked out the Wildasia website, I thought, “Darn! Whoever created this site beat me to it.” I’d always thought there wasn’t enough information on nature destinations and adventure travels in Asia.
Then, came Wildasia.
The simple homepage, presented in a clear style with nature shots, displays a hotchpotch of articles and facts clumped into different sections. You can browse the guides on natural areas in Malaysia, read travel, adventure and natural history articles, or find out about conservation projects around the region.
Dr Reza Azmi is a biologist who founded the Wildasia website to cater for his interest in nature and travel.
Or, if you’re planning a trip, look up the “travel centre” and get in touch with people who can dole out travel tips or get you in touch with locals in the area. If you’re in a time crunch, you can get a custom-tailored travel itinerary prepared by Wildasia.
Yet, the website is not profit-oriented, as founder Dr Reza Azmi, 34, explained.
“The idea is to get more people outdoors,” said Reza, a conservationist with a background in botany. “We try to get people tuned into the importance of natural areas to help protect and conserve the remaining natural habitats in Asia.”
Wildasia is a platform to share information and help facilitate exploration of these natural areas, he added. The long-term goal is to work closely with the tourism sector, and to develop more responsible tourism principles and practices. For example, the website will back tour operators who support conservation plans that protect the areas they work in.
The site’s history began in 1998. Reza, then based in Sabah, was working on an idea to support small and village-level tourism initiatives.
“At that time, nature tourism in the Kinabatangan area was picking up but the villagers were often left out,” said Reza. “It was a shame as they often made the best nature guides.”
Reza took the initiative to write his own guide to help tourists know more about the Kinabatangan and the villagers who could help visitors with lodging and boat trips. Such information allows tourists to do independent travel and not depend on tour operators, he said.
Setting up a website was a natural progression since it is a cheap platform to disseminate information, Reza said. The website, a prototype named wildborneo.net, generated interest worldwide. Reza began putting up information on other areas and this led to Wildasia.net in 2002.
In the beginning, Wildasia was a one-man show. In addition to his “real job” as a biologist working on research and conservation projects, Reza spent hours churning out articles for the website.
“I sleep, eat, think Wildasia, it’s a 24-hour thing,” confessed Reza who lives with his wife and two family pets in Kuala Lumpur. “But I’m very lucky as my job involves a great deal of travel. Wildasia is an extension of what I do. I use the travel directory before I go on work assignments.
Today, Wildasia holds one of the largest directories of people and organisations involved in conservation and nature/adventure travel.
Over the years, more than 50 of Reza’s friends and colleagues – a bunch of naturalists, biologists, conservationists and writers – have contributed articles, pictures and shared information through the site.
One of Wildasia’s contributors, Liz Price, a cave and karst specialist and freelance writer based in Kuala Lumpur, finds the site a good source of information on many off-the-beaten-track destinations.
“It’s a useful site for facts on nature and travel,” said Price who checks the site weekly or at least once a month. “When I get questions from overseas visitors, it’s good to refer them to the site.”
Tan Chin Tong, 47, an avid Wildasia reader checks out the site at least once a week.
“I enjoy reading the articles – they’re raw and unpolished, just what nature lovers love to read,” said Tan who is based in Ipoh.
“They’re unlike articles (in mass publications) with content beautifully constructed to whet readers’ appetite but full of disappointments when you make the trip.”
But Tan would like to see more articles on Peninsular Malaysia. “There are many hidden beauties known only to a few,” he added.
From design to content, Wildasia is a voluntary effort.
“The Tourism Malaysia award belongs to all the volunteers who helped build Wildasia to what it is today,” stressed Reza.
Though Wildasia receives more than 10,000 visits a day from readers worldwide, Reza is not satisfied. He constantly thinks of ways to improve the site and sees Wildasia’s development as an evolving process.
“But I hope to see more contributors from different parts of Asia getting involved. That would help us cover more natural areas and bring us closer towards our goal,” Reza summed up.
For now, it’s heartening to see our tourism authorities recognise a non-commercial effort on nature tourism writing in Malaysia.
Check out http://www.wildasia.net/
Perak Man’s bones tell his story - Star 2003
THE STAR
4 October 2003
also on ALL MALAYSIA
Perak Man’s bones tell his story
By Liz Price
PERAK Man, Peninsular Malaysia’s oldest inhabitant, is well travelled, despite his great age of 11,000 years old. A few years ago he went to Japan for an exhibition, and in November and December 2001, he visited Kuala Lumpur where he was the star in an exhibition entitled Perak Man.
Now he is having a well-deserved rest and is back in his native Perak, where he is residing in the new Lenggong Museum. He is, after all, one of the most important inhabitants to have lived in Malaysia, because his bones survive to tell the tale.
Perak Man, found in 1991, is the only complete human skeleton which has been found in Malaysia. The cave which was his final resting place is called Gua Gunung Runtuh and is situated in Bukit Kepala Gajah, or Elephant’s Head Hill, in the Lenggong Valley in Ulu Perak. The skeleton has been dated at between 10,000 and 11,000 years old, which makes him a Stone Age man, from the Palaeolithic period. The skeleton was found by Datuk Prof Zuraini Majid and her team from Universiti Sains Malaysia (USM).
It is believed Perak Man was an important member of his tribe, judging by the way he was buried, in a foetal position, and accompanied by stone tools. He was about 157cm tall and probably aged 40-50 when he died. He had an atrophied left hand and one finger was deformed. As well as the skeleton, remnants of tools and food such as shells and animal bones were found in the cave.
The first time I went up to the Lenggong area I visited Gua Gunung Runtuh. Although there was nothing to see except for the pits dug in the floor by the archaeological researchers, it was easy to get the imagination going, and to reflect on how Perak Man and his tribe had used that cave as a shelter.
The Lenggong valley is one of the Peninsula’s most important areas for archaeology, as excavations have revealed many traces of Malaysia’s pre-history. The town of Lenggong is situated some 100km north of Ipoh on the Kuala Kangsar-Grik road. It is the site of the oldest known place of human activity in the Peninsula. Today, it is still a rural area, with small kampungs surrounded by green vegetation and limestone hills.
Lenggong can be likened to an open-air museum, and is home to legends, skeletons, cave drawings and precious finds such as jewellery, pottery, weapons and stone tools. Gua Gunung Runtuh was probably used as a temporary camp when the people were out hunting, being well situated high up. In the same hill, other caves have yielded archaeological remains such as stone tools and food remnants, but no more skeletons. The caves were probably used as temporary shelters and seasonal camps, whereas Gua Gunung Runtuh was lived in for longer periods.
Kota Tampan is the site of a prehistoric stone tool workshop, and has been dated at about 74,000 years old. This makes it older than the archaeological remains which have been found at Niah Cave in Sarawak, where one human skull has been dated at about 40,000 years old. But all these findings are still very young compared to those from Africa, where the predecessors of the human species originated about three to five million years ago. When I first visited Kota Tampan archaeological site, it consisted of little more than a single shelter and a lone notice board, in the middle of oil palm plantations. Now there is the stylish Lenggong Archaeological Museum, also known as the Kota Tampan Archaeological Museum. The building site was chosen as it displays the reconstruction of the Kota Tampan excavation site and it is ideal to locate a museum.
The museum exhibits artifacts excavated from the Kota Tampan area. They are housed in a large bright building and are divided into three categories covering the Kota Tampan Excavation Site Gallery, Lenggong Pre-Historic Gallery and the Human Civilisation Gallery.
The Lenggong Valley has several sites of archaeological importance, such as Bukit Jawa at Kg Geluk, and Kg Temelong where stone tools dating back 100,000 years were found. The nearby Bukit Bunuh finds are more recent at 50,000 years! But the most fascinating and unique artifact is the 11,000-year old Perak Man skeleton. I am not sure if the real skeleton is on display or if it is a replica.
Various other caves in the vicinity were dug by the researchers who found artifacts from the Bronze Neolithic Age at Gua Harimau, and stone tools from the Upper Palaeolithic age at Gua Telok Kelawar and Ngaum caves. Other items on display relate to the history of human evolution and civilisation, dating from the Homo habilis to the modern Homo sapiens.
This year a USM archaeology team led by Dr Mohd Mokhtar Saidin worked on an open site in Bukit Bunuh, about one kilometre away from the museum. The findings were unusual as they included chert stones, which are normally associated with volcanoes. So at some time in the past there must have been a volcanic eruption in this area. This is interesting news and the researchers are still looking into it.
The Museum opened its doors to the public earlier this year, and cost some RM3mil to set up. The Sultan of Perak, Sultan Azlan Shah, officially opened it in July. He paid special tribute to USM, particularly to Prof Zuraina and the Museum and Antiquity Department, for their untiring efforts.
The only unfortunate factor about the location of the museum is that it is “off the beaten track” and won’t attract many casual visitors. At Tasek Raban, 3km from Kota Tampan where the museum is sited, a cluster of chalets costing RM2.2mil, are being built. This is a popular spot for fishing and water sports.
The Lenggong Archaeological Museum
Kota Tampan, Lenggong, Perak
Location: The Museum is about 70km from the Jalan Butterworth/ Ipoh intersection, along the Kuala Kangsar to Grik road.
It is open daily from 9am to 5pm; Fridays from 9am to 12.15pm, 2.45pm to 5pm. Closed on Hari Raya. Admission is free.
Originally published in The Star on
4 October 2003
also on ALL MALAYSIA
Perak Man’s bones tell his story
By Liz Price
PERAK Man, Peninsular Malaysia’s oldest inhabitant, is well travelled, despite his great age of 11,000 years old. A few years ago he went to Japan for an exhibition, and in November and December 2001, he visited Kuala Lumpur where he was the star in an exhibition entitled Perak Man.
Now he is having a well-deserved rest and is back in his native Perak, where he is residing in the new Lenggong Museum. He is, after all, one of the most important inhabitants to have lived in Malaysia, because his bones survive to tell the tale.
Perak Man, found in 1991, is the only complete human skeleton which has been found in Malaysia. The cave which was his final resting place is called Gua Gunung Runtuh and is situated in Bukit Kepala Gajah, or Elephant’s Head Hill, in the Lenggong Valley in Ulu Perak. The skeleton has been dated at between 10,000 and 11,000 years old, which makes him a Stone Age man, from the Palaeolithic period. The skeleton was found by Datuk Prof Zuraini Majid and her team from Universiti Sains Malaysia (USM).
It is believed Perak Man was an important member of his tribe, judging by the way he was buried, in a foetal position, and accompanied by stone tools. He was about 157cm tall and probably aged 40-50 when he died. He had an atrophied left hand and one finger was deformed. As well as the skeleton, remnants of tools and food such as shells and animal bones were found in the cave.
The first time I went up to the Lenggong area I visited Gua Gunung Runtuh. Although there was nothing to see except for the pits dug in the floor by the archaeological researchers, it was easy to get the imagination going, and to reflect on how Perak Man and his tribe had used that cave as a shelter.
The Lenggong valley is one of the Peninsula’s most important areas for archaeology, as excavations have revealed many traces of Malaysia’s pre-history. The town of Lenggong is situated some 100km north of Ipoh on the Kuala Kangsar-Grik road. It is the site of the oldest known place of human activity in the Peninsula. Today, it is still a rural area, with small kampungs surrounded by green vegetation and limestone hills.
Lenggong can be likened to an open-air museum, and is home to legends, skeletons, cave drawings and precious finds such as jewellery, pottery, weapons and stone tools. Gua Gunung Runtuh was probably used as a temporary camp when the people were out hunting, being well situated high up. In the same hill, other caves have yielded archaeological remains such as stone tools and food remnants, but no more skeletons. The caves were probably used as temporary shelters and seasonal camps, whereas Gua Gunung Runtuh was lived in for longer periods.
Kota Tampan is the site of a prehistoric stone tool workshop, and has been dated at about 74,000 years old. This makes it older than the archaeological remains which have been found at Niah Cave in Sarawak, where one human skull has been dated at about 40,000 years old. But all these findings are still very young compared to those from Africa, where the predecessors of the human species originated about three to five million years ago. When I first visited Kota Tampan archaeological site, it consisted of little more than a single shelter and a lone notice board, in the middle of oil palm plantations. Now there is the stylish Lenggong Archaeological Museum, also known as the Kota Tampan Archaeological Museum. The building site was chosen as it displays the reconstruction of the Kota Tampan excavation site and it is ideal to locate a museum.
The museum exhibits artifacts excavated from the Kota Tampan area. They are housed in a large bright building and are divided into three categories covering the Kota Tampan Excavation Site Gallery, Lenggong Pre-Historic Gallery and the Human Civilisation Gallery.
The Lenggong Valley has several sites of archaeological importance, such as Bukit Jawa at Kg Geluk, and Kg Temelong where stone tools dating back 100,000 years were found. The nearby Bukit Bunuh finds are more recent at 50,000 years! But the most fascinating and unique artifact is the 11,000-year old Perak Man skeleton. I am not sure if the real skeleton is on display or if it is a replica.
Various other caves in the vicinity were dug by the researchers who found artifacts from the Bronze Neolithic Age at Gua Harimau, and stone tools from the Upper Palaeolithic age at Gua Telok Kelawar and Ngaum caves. Other items on display relate to the history of human evolution and civilisation, dating from the Homo habilis to the modern Homo sapiens.
This year a USM archaeology team led by Dr Mohd Mokhtar Saidin worked on an open site in Bukit Bunuh, about one kilometre away from the museum. The findings were unusual as they included chert stones, which are normally associated with volcanoes. So at some time in the past there must have been a volcanic eruption in this area. This is interesting news and the researchers are still looking into it.
The Museum opened its doors to the public earlier this year, and cost some RM3mil to set up. The Sultan of Perak, Sultan Azlan Shah, officially opened it in July. He paid special tribute to USM, particularly to Prof Zuraina and the Museum and Antiquity Department, for their untiring efforts.
The only unfortunate factor about the location of the museum is that it is “off the beaten track” and won’t attract many casual visitors. At Tasek Raban, 3km from Kota Tampan where the museum is sited, a cluster of chalets costing RM2.2mil, are being built. This is a popular spot for fishing and water sports.
The Lenggong Archaeological Museum
Kota Tampan, Lenggong, Perak
Location: The Museum is about 70km from the Jalan Butterworth/ Ipoh intersection, along the Kuala Kangsar to Grik road.
It is open daily from 9am to 5pm; Fridays from 9am to 12.15pm, 2.45pm to 5pm. Closed on Hari Raya. Admission is free.
Originally published in The Star on
Krabi cleaned up - Star
THE STAR Weekend
Saturday August 23, 2008
Krabi, cleaned up
By LIZ PRICE
A look at how Krabi has changed since the tsunami.
I recently went to Krabi for the first time since the tsunami and was amazed at the number of tourists there. It was packed and there was a surprising number of European children. I guess a lot of parents are taking winter breaks.
Krabi, just south of Phuket, has long been a popular tourist destination for its beaches and islands. The beaches include Ao Nang and those on the Railey peninsula, while the islands of Ko Phi Phi, Ko Lanta are all accessible from Krabi.
Whilst Ko Phi Phi and parts of Phuket were devastated by the December 2004 tsunami, Krabi didn’t suffer as badly. I was interested to see how things had changed since the tsunami.
Krabi airport opened about seven years ago and now handles international as well as domestic flights. This, of course, has led to a huge increase in the number of tourists visiting the area.
From the airport, tourists have a choice of taxi or shuttle bus to Krabi town, or Ao Nang beach.
I chose to stay in town, as accommodation is cheaper than at the beach, and it’s easier to get local food. I found hotel rates in the town have not increased much since the tsunami. There are several new guesthouses catering for backpackers, several of which offer WiFi access.
In town, I noticed a few of the old guesthouses and shops have been replaced by Internet cafés, or more modern coffee shops, hand phone shops etc. A large new wat, or Buddhist temple, is being constructed on the hill at the back of town, accessible by a wide flight of steps.
An ape statue holding up the traffic lights at Manus Borarn Square. — LIZ PRICE
The main crossroads in town is now called Manus Borarn Square, and there are large ape statues holding traffic lights at each of the four roads.
The statues are to commemorate the archaeological findings made in the Krabi district. These include 43,000-year-old human skeletons unearthed from under a cliff at the Tab-prik School in Krabi. Also 27,000-year-old human skeletons were found at Mor Keaw Cave, at Ban Na-Ching in Krabi.
The oldest finds are fossils dating back to 37 million years, found in a lignite mine. They are jaw bones of an ancient primate, later named Siamopithecus eocaenus, (the signboard says Siam Moipithecus erectus, which is wrong), which could be an ancestor of humans.
Down by the river is a large stone eagle, similar to the one on Langkawi, but smaller. The signage says it is a White-breasted Sea Eagle, Nok Awk, and goes on to describe the bird. At the waterfront, one boatman said that business was very bad, as most tourists preferred to stay at the beach.
Ao Nang was busy with people. The beach road hadn’t changed much since the tsunami and I recognised many of the shops from my last visit in 2002. But now there were more Western fast food places, coffee shops and small shopping centres opening up. And of course, new guest houses and luxury resorts.
One new luxury resort occupied the entire bay south of the main beach, and is reached by a boardwalk. With room rates starting at 6,000 baht (RM590), it is not cheap.
Despite the increase in the number of buildings and people, things seemed orderly. Thailand realises tourism makes up a huge part of the country’s income. Therefore, they take steps to encourage tourists.
The main thing that struck me along the main beach was the number of ATM machines, located every few hundred metres. The authorities have realised that tourists spend money and need easy access to cash. And so they have set up ATMs everywhere, all of which take foreign credit cards.
One big change is that the boats to the islands and beaches are now all strictly controlled. The longtail boats are all moored together in one area, which ensures the safety of people swimming in the other areas.
And there are two ticket offices, at each end of the beach. Gone are the days of the boatmen and their touts all shouting and jostling to compete for your custom. Now the prices are prominently displayed. Along the beach, there are numerous tsunami warning signs.
These tell you to go to high ground or inland in the event of an earthquake. And the signs point which way to go.
I also counted around 20 massage stalls on the beach, with prices prominently displayed. At a mere 200 baht (RM20) an hour, the stalls were fully occupied.
There were also signs asking smokers not to throw their cigarette butts into the sea — “The beach and ocean are not an ashtray”.
So many people treat the sea as a rubbish bin and this is particularly unpleasant for swimmers. And cigarette butts take years to break down. All the beaches were very clean. Having litter bins placed in many spots helped.
Restaurant prices at the beach have increased since I was last there. In Krabi town, you can still get a delicious meal, with free cold water, all for a mere 30 baht (RM3).
About 40% of Krabi’s population is Muslim so there are halal eating places, including roti shops. The rotis are always smaller in Thailand than in Malaysia, but the curry is delicious. One shop proudly announces that tourists are charged the same price as Thais.
The authorities certainly seem to be doing their bit to keep the place clean and safe, and to make sure things run smoothly. Obviously, the ever increasing numbers of visitors will have an impact. Hopefully, this won’t spoil the tropical paradise that they have come to see.
Saturday August 23, 2008
Krabi, cleaned up
By LIZ PRICE
A look at how Krabi has changed since the tsunami.
I recently went to Krabi for the first time since the tsunami and was amazed at the number of tourists there. It was packed and there was a surprising number of European children. I guess a lot of parents are taking winter breaks.
Krabi, just south of Phuket, has long been a popular tourist destination for its beaches and islands. The beaches include Ao Nang and those on the Railey peninsula, while the islands of Ko Phi Phi, Ko Lanta are all accessible from Krabi.
Whilst Ko Phi Phi and parts of Phuket were devastated by the December 2004 tsunami, Krabi didn’t suffer as badly. I was interested to see how things had changed since the tsunami.
Krabi airport opened about seven years ago and now handles international as well as domestic flights. This, of course, has led to a huge increase in the number of tourists visiting the area.
From the airport, tourists have a choice of taxi or shuttle bus to Krabi town, or Ao Nang beach.
I chose to stay in town, as accommodation is cheaper than at the beach, and it’s easier to get local food. I found hotel rates in the town have not increased much since the tsunami. There are several new guesthouses catering for backpackers, several of which offer WiFi access.
In town, I noticed a few of the old guesthouses and shops have been replaced by Internet cafés, or more modern coffee shops, hand phone shops etc. A large new wat, or Buddhist temple, is being constructed on the hill at the back of town, accessible by a wide flight of steps.
An ape statue holding up the traffic lights at Manus Borarn Square. — LIZ PRICE
The main crossroads in town is now called Manus Borarn Square, and there are large ape statues holding traffic lights at each of the four roads.
The statues are to commemorate the archaeological findings made in the Krabi district. These include 43,000-year-old human skeletons unearthed from under a cliff at the Tab-prik School in Krabi. Also 27,000-year-old human skeletons were found at Mor Keaw Cave, at Ban Na-Ching in Krabi.
The oldest finds are fossils dating back to 37 million years, found in a lignite mine. They are jaw bones of an ancient primate, later named Siamopithecus eocaenus, (the signboard says Siam Moipithecus erectus, which is wrong), which could be an ancestor of humans.
Down by the river is a large stone eagle, similar to the one on Langkawi, but smaller. The signage says it is a White-breasted Sea Eagle, Nok Awk, and goes on to describe the bird. At the waterfront, one boatman said that business was very bad, as most tourists preferred to stay at the beach.
Ao Nang was busy with people. The beach road hadn’t changed much since the tsunami and I recognised many of the shops from my last visit in 2002. But now there were more Western fast food places, coffee shops and small shopping centres opening up. And of course, new guest houses and luxury resorts.
One new luxury resort occupied the entire bay south of the main beach, and is reached by a boardwalk. With room rates starting at 6,000 baht (RM590), it is not cheap.
Despite the increase in the number of buildings and people, things seemed orderly. Thailand realises tourism makes up a huge part of the country’s income. Therefore, they take steps to encourage tourists.
The main thing that struck me along the main beach was the number of ATM machines, located every few hundred metres. The authorities have realised that tourists spend money and need easy access to cash. And so they have set up ATMs everywhere, all of which take foreign credit cards.
One big change is that the boats to the islands and beaches are now all strictly controlled. The longtail boats are all moored together in one area, which ensures the safety of people swimming in the other areas.
And there are two ticket offices, at each end of the beach. Gone are the days of the boatmen and their touts all shouting and jostling to compete for your custom. Now the prices are prominently displayed. Along the beach, there are numerous tsunami warning signs.
These tell you to go to high ground or inland in the event of an earthquake. And the signs point which way to go.
I also counted around 20 massage stalls on the beach, with prices prominently displayed. At a mere 200 baht (RM20) an hour, the stalls were fully occupied.
There were also signs asking smokers not to throw their cigarette butts into the sea — “The beach and ocean are not an ashtray”.
So many people treat the sea as a rubbish bin and this is particularly unpleasant for swimmers. And cigarette butts take years to break down. All the beaches were very clean. Having litter bins placed in many spots helped.
Restaurant prices at the beach have increased since I was last there. In Krabi town, you can still get a delicious meal, with free cold water, all for a mere 30 baht (RM3).
About 40% of Krabi’s population is Muslim so there are halal eating places, including roti shops. The rotis are always smaller in Thailand than in Malaysia, but the curry is delicious. One shop proudly announces that tourists are charged the same price as Thais.
The authorities certainly seem to be doing their bit to keep the place clean and safe, and to make sure things run smoothly. Obviously, the ever increasing numbers of visitors will have an impact. Hopefully, this won’t spoil the tropical paradise that they have come to see.
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