THE STAR
Saturday, March 22, 2003
Treasures of Trang
By Liz Price
The gooey mud was sucking at my shoes in a determined attempt to drag them from my feet. I tried another couple of steps but it was a real battle against the tenacious hold of the mud.
I could see the sandal straps straining and likely to part company from the sole. The only option was to remove my footwear and continue barefoot. For the first couple of steps, it was an odd sensation as cold, clammy mud oozed between my toes and slid over my foot as I squelched forward. But I soon got used to the feeling and realised I had a better grip in the mud, though I needed to be careful not to stub my toes on stones and rocks. And to think I was paying for the pleasure of this!
The setting – a show cave in Trang province, Thailand. My friends and I had driven from KL to southern Thailand for a long weekend of adventure, both caving and culinary. That was how we found ourselves in the mud at Tham Lae, also known as Tham Khaokob.
We’d seen some signs for the cave on the main road and decided to investigate. Ahead of us lay a small limestone hill surrounded by a canal. We discovered that to rent an eight-seater boat was only 200 Baht, less than RM20. So with two guides we paddled off into the gloom, or should I say they paddled whilst we relaxed to enjoy the ride.
The cave was lit by electric lights. The darkness dispelled, we beheld how impressive the chambers, some packed with stalagmite formations, were.
The most notable were the long straws, as you rarely find these in Malaysian caves. At various sections we got out of the boat to walk around the chambers, and that was how we found ourselves squelching through the sticky mud.
Having seen some reasonably large chambers, we headed for a low series of narrow passages. We had to lie almost flat in the boat to avoid banging our heads on the roof. I wouldn’t like to be in this section during the rainy season as the cave would obviously flood to the roof. The whole trip lasted an hour and was a great experience.
After this experience, we were feeling peckish and so headed off to look for lunch. A couple of us were fans of tom yam, so every lunch and dinner we would order a bowl to try out the different tastes. They were all good. Authentic Thai food is so good, and also cheap. We invariably stopped at small roadside eating places, choosing ones well away from tourist areas. Sometimes ordering was a slight problem as my Thai is limited to a few words such as rice, chicken, etc, so the easiest option is just to point or self-serve.
We visited various other caves, mostly multi-level Buddhist temples. I lost count of the number of steps we climbed to reach the upper chambers with their shrines and Buddhas. But the views over the surrounding plains invariably made up for the effort.
One such cave is Tham Khao Pina, discovered by one Ni Pha Ya – a statue of him is in the cave. The remains of an old Dodge car outside commemorates the first car to reach the cave.
Trang is famous for its coffee and the coffeeshops are easily identified by the charcoal-fired aluminium boilers with stubby smokestacks. These shops are usually run by Hokkiens.
Trang province is also known for a particular cake, similar to a sponge cake (their white boxes only have Thai writing so I have never discovered the name of these cakes). But they tasted good.
Apart from food, the province is known for Panan mats, used as bridal gifts in rural Trang, made from pandanus leaves.
One of Trang’s claims to fame is that it often wins the award for “cleanest city in Thailand”. However its main attractions are the beaches, islands, waterfalls and caves.
An odd aspect of the city is the seeming lack of Buddhist temples normally found in Thai towns. The central business district of Trang is inhabited predominantly by Chinese, so there are a few joss houses.
During the seventh to 12th centuries, Trang was an important port for ocean-going sampans sailing to the Straits of Malacca. Today, Trang is an important point of exit for rubber from the province’s many plantations.
We spent a day driving along the coast, stopping at interesting places. One of these was Hat Jao Mai National Park. The park is rich in evergreen, mangrove and beach forests and is a haven for wildlife. Dugongs can sometimes be spotted, as well as sea otters, langurs, pangolins and birds.
As we walked towards some limestone caves on the headland, we were surrounded by macaques. They were eyeing our bags, hoping we had food for them. We didn’t and some monkeys got quite aggressive, trying to intimidate us as they made a grab for our bags.
Lunch was at the main beach resort of Pak Meng. We dined from the stalls selling all kinds of tasty tidbits along the roadside.
The following day, we did a boat trip to Ko Muk. This island is south of Pak Meng and has a high central peak. As we approached, we passed a knob of rock about 10m high on top of which was perched a small bamboo hut. It reminded me of the bobble on a hat. I’m not sure if it was a house or just a fishermen’s shelter.
At Ko Muk, we moored outside Tham Morakhot or Emerald Cave. The only way into the cave was to swim, and as I headed into the ever-increasing gloom I could hear a strange noise like a groan . . . It was really eerie and I was a bit perturbed as the noise grew louder and the cave got darker; my imagination conjured up all kinds of ghostly beings. My companions were all walking behind me so I had no one to seek solace from.
The cave tunnel did a dogleg turn, and as I came round the bend, I realised with great relief that the noise was actually caused by water slapping against the rock, the sound being distorted in the enclosed space. Around the bend, I could see daylight from the entrance ahead and quickly swam towards the light at the end of the tunnel.
I emerged onto a sandy beach. It was beautiful. A small beach and patch of trees encircled by towering limestone cliffs. There was no way out except through the cave, or over the sheer cliffs, negotiable only by monkeys.
There are some scenic waterfalls in the Trang area but we did not have a chance to visit them as we were occupied with visiting caves. We headed back towards Satun and the border. The whole stretch of coastline has limestone islands, which go right down to Langkawi, being part of the same geological chain.
The attractiveness of Trang province – apart from its natural beauty – is that it is less touristy than many other parts of Thailand.
It is very easy to travel around by car, and find good and cheap accommodation and food. And tourist attractions are generally signposted on the roadside, so quite often we’d see a sign to some attraction and investigate.
The only drawback was that we were only there for a long weekend and didn’t really have enough time to do it justice. I will be back!
sign in a cave in Laos
19 August 2008
Thale Ban caving - Star
Caving in Thale Ban
THE STAR
Saturday, December 28, 2002
Story and Picture by Liz Price
Wot, wot, wot was the dominant sound each evening and it lasted until dawn when it was replaced by wa wa. I was in Thale Ban National Park in Thailand and these were the sounds made by the local inhabitants – hundreds of frogs living in the lake. Unable to find the real name of the frogs, we soon called them the wot wot frogs, and they provided much amusement each night. I imagined long ago someone had asked them a question and they misheard and said “what”, and this remained the extent of their vocabulary. Each morning at dawn, the gibbons could be heard calling out to each other on the distant hill range. It was a very pleasant sound, the wa wa would reach a crescendo then die away until another gibbon took up the call.
Thale Ban in the Satun province is the southern most park in Thailand – the headquarters, a mere couple of kilometres from Malaysia’s Wang Kelian border post in Perlis. In fact, the Perlis State Park complements Thailand’s Thale Ban National Park and forms a transboundary park. The main geological feature of the Perlis Park is the Nakawan range of limestone hills which run northwards from Kuala Perlis across the border into Thailand. These hills in Perlis are riddled with caves, so it is logical to assume that the caves would continue in Thailand. I went to investigate with a caving friend from Perlis, and a caver from England who had flown out for a holiday cum caving trip.
The Thale Ban Park with limestone mountains.
We checked in at the park headquarters. As we walked alongside the 32ha lake to our bungalow, the wot wot frogs greeted us in a noisy chorus. Our rooms were situated right by the lake, with the limestone mountains forming a backdrop. It was a scenic backdrop. Thale Ban is a lush tropical park, carpeted with a remarkable semi-evergreen rainforest, which features flora and fauna more indigenous to Malaysia and Sumatra. Few people come to Thale Ban for caving – most people are here for birding. Over 200 species of birds inhabit the park, including the peregrine falcon, hawks, and hornbills. Interesting animals such as the mousedeer, white-handed gibbons, and dusky leaf monkeys are sighted regularly.
The park’s headquarters is located in a valley floor between limestone and granite mountains. From this beautiful spot, there are several trails leading to the park’s major scenic places. There are also two impressive waterfalls, and on the southern edge is a mangrove forest. And of course, there are caves.
We were looking for caves.
The best known cave is Tham Ton Din, a 400m long river cave, just across the road from Park HQ. I had explored this cave on a previous visit, and although it is a very pleasant cave, we didn’t go in this time, as we were looking for new caves. Many people in southern Thailand speak Bahasa Malaysia as they are from Malay stock, so it is quite easy to communicate. However, in the park it was different, as most of the staff only spoke Thai. We managed to meet up with one ranger who could speak Bahasa Malaysia and explained that we needed transport to look for caves.
That same afternoon we set off in a truck for a Ranger Station in another part of the park. We were joined by a couple of Field Force guys who came along to escort us, one had a HK automatic rifle, the other had a gun in his shoulder bag. As we climbed up a slippery hill slope, I was a bit perturbed to see the guy with the rifle, who was immediately behind me, using the rifle as a walking stick. I just hoped that the safety catch was firmly in place.
We found one small cave which was so short that it hardly qualified as a true cave. But we had an eventful time exploring it. There was a hornets’ nest in the narrow entrance, which we gingerly passed to enter the cave. As we dropped down into the stream, we saw a toad with one bare femur bone – all the flesh had disappeared. Ugh. After about eight metres, the cave ended in a sump, a place where the water meets the roof. On the way out, I accidentally disturbed the hornets and got stung several times. Outside the cave, Ronn slipped and bruised his leg very badly. We named the cave “Broken Leg Cave” after the toad and Ronn’s legs.
That night we went into Satun for dinner. As we were sitting having a beer, the landlady who is a nurse came out with some ointment for Ronn’s leg. We thought it was some special remedy, sticky and minty, but it turned out to be aloe vera toothpaste!
The next day the truck we had arranged for didn’t appear. We sat around and waited, and whilst wondering what to do, we were suddenly offered a lift on a truck packed with boy scouts. Not wanting to look a gift horse in the mouth, we eagerly climbed aboard, and were soon speeding down the road, hanging on for dear life. After visiting a school, we were dropped off along the roadside, and found an old man who escorted us through the rubber plantation to a cave.
Negotiating obstacles to reach the caves.
The cave was another short one, but entailed swimming through it. We emerged dripping wet, then walked back to the road and flagged down a passing pickup truck. We were able to hire the vehicle to take us around to other sites. Although we found no more caves that day, we did visit a couple of waterfalls. There are two falls which are tourist attractions, the Don Bliew and the Yaroy falls. The former is the most beautiful fall in the Park, about 10km from Park HQ, and has a good year round of water supply. The Yaroy waterfall is a series of five drops, again signposted from the road. We also went to a hot spring which we smelt long before we saw it as the stench of sulphur permeated the air from afar.
The next day we went up to Wang Prah meadows to look for caves. I found the name intriguing as it conjured up an area of meadows filled with wild flowers. Sadly, when we visited, there were no flowers, it was just grassland. It is actually a large area of redundant rice fields which is slowly reforesting. It is supposedly a good place for bird watching.
During our stay, we found a few caves, but none as big or spectacular as those in Perlis. It is strange that although it is the same hill range, the caves seem to stop at the border. Obviously the man-made border didn’t exist when the caves were formed. The caves are some of the oldest in Malaysia, made of 400-million-year- old limestone, so I wonder why the caves didn’t really develop on the Thai side. It is a geological mystery of Mother Nature. E
THE STAR
Saturday, December 28, 2002
Story and Picture by Liz Price
Wot, wot, wot was the dominant sound each evening and it lasted until dawn when it was replaced by wa wa. I was in Thale Ban National Park in Thailand and these were the sounds made by the local inhabitants – hundreds of frogs living in the lake. Unable to find the real name of the frogs, we soon called them the wot wot frogs, and they provided much amusement each night. I imagined long ago someone had asked them a question and they misheard and said “what”, and this remained the extent of their vocabulary. Each morning at dawn, the gibbons could be heard calling out to each other on the distant hill range. It was a very pleasant sound, the wa wa would reach a crescendo then die away until another gibbon took up the call.
Thale Ban in the Satun province is the southern most park in Thailand – the headquarters, a mere couple of kilometres from Malaysia’s Wang Kelian border post in Perlis. In fact, the Perlis State Park complements Thailand’s Thale Ban National Park and forms a transboundary park. The main geological feature of the Perlis Park is the Nakawan range of limestone hills which run northwards from Kuala Perlis across the border into Thailand. These hills in Perlis are riddled with caves, so it is logical to assume that the caves would continue in Thailand. I went to investigate with a caving friend from Perlis, and a caver from England who had flown out for a holiday cum caving trip.
The Thale Ban Park with limestone mountains.
We checked in at the park headquarters. As we walked alongside the 32ha lake to our bungalow, the wot wot frogs greeted us in a noisy chorus. Our rooms were situated right by the lake, with the limestone mountains forming a backdrop. It was a scenic backdrop. Thale Ban is a lush tropical park, carpeted with a remarkable semi-evergreen rainforest, which features flora and fauna more indigenous to Malaysia and Sumatra. Few people come to Thale Ban for caving – most people are here for birding. Over 200 species of birds inhabit the park, including the peregrine falcon, hawks, and hornbills. Interesting animals such as the mousedeer, white-handed gibbons, and dusky leaf monkeys are sighted regularly.
The park’s headquarters is located in a valley floor between limestone and granite mountains. From this beautiful spot, there are several trails leading to the park’s major scenic places. There are also two impressive waterfalls, and on the southern edge is a mangrove forest. And of course, there are caves.
We were looking for caves.
The best known cave is Tham Ton Din, a 400m long river cave, just across the road from Park HQ. I had explored this cave on a previous visit, and although it is a very pleasant cave, we didn’t go in this time, as we were looking for new caves. Many people in southern Thailand speak Bahasa Malaysia as they are from Malay stock, so it is quite easy to communicate. However, in the park it was different, as most of the staff only spoke Thai. We managed to meet up with one ranger who could speak Bahasa Malaysia and explained that we needed transport to look for caves.
That same afternoon we set off in a truck for a Ranger Station in another part of the park. We were joined by a couple of Field Force guys who came along to escort us, one had a HK automatic rifle, the other had a gun in his shoulder bag. As we climbed up a slippery hill slope, I was a bit perturbed to see the guy with the rifle, who was immediately behind me, using the rifle as a walking stick. I just hoped that the safety catch was firmly in place.
We found one small cave which was so short that it hardly qualified as a true cave. But we had an eventful time exploring it. There was a hornets’ nest in the narrow entrance, which we gingerly passed to enter the cave. As we dropped down into the stream, we saw a toad with one bare femur bone – all the flesh had disappeared. Ugh. After about eight metres, the cave ended in a sump, a place where the water meets the roof. On the way out, I accidentally disturbed the hornets and got stung several times. Outside the cave, Ronn slipped and bruised his leg very badly. We named the cave “Broken Leg Cave” after the toad and Ronn’s legs.
That night we went into Satun for dinner. As we were sitting having a beer, the landlady who is a nurse came out with some ointment for Ronn’s leg. We thought it was some special remedy, sticky and minty, but it turned out to be aloe vera toothpaste!
The next day the truck we had arranged for didn’t appear. We sat around and waited, and whilst wondering what to do, we were suddenly offered a lift on a truck packed with boy scouts. Not wanting to look a gift horse in the mouth, we eagerly climbed aboard, and were soon speeding down the road, hanging on for dear life. After visiting a school, we were dropped off along the roadside, and found an old man who escorted us through the rubber plantation to a cave.
Negotiating obstacles to reach the caves.
The cave was another short one, but entailed swimming through it. We emerged dripping wet, then walked back to the road and flagged down a passing pickup truck. We were able to hire the vehicle to take us around to other sites. Although we found no more caves that day, we did visit a couple of waterfalls. There are two falls which are tourist attractions, the Don Bliew and the Yaroy falls. The former is the most beautiful fall in the Park, about 10km from Park HQ, and has a good year round of water supply. The Yaroy waterfall is a series of five drops, again signposted from the road. We also went to a hot spring which we smelt long before we saw it as the stench of sulphur permeated the air from afar.
The next day we went up to Wang Prah meadows to look for caves. I found the name intriguing as it conjured up an area of meadows filled with wild flowers. Sadly, when we visited, there were no flowers, it was just grassland. It is actually a large area of redundant rice fields which is slowly reforesting. It is supposedly a good place for bird watching.
During our stay, we found a few caves, but none as big or spectacular as those in Perlis. It is strange that although it is the same hill range, the caves seem to stop at the border. Obviously the man-made border didn’t exist when the caves were formed. The caves are some of the oldest in Malaysia, made of 400-million-year- old limestone, so I wonder why the caves didn’t really develop on the Thai side. It is a geological mystery of Mother Nature. E
Tarutao ex penal colony - Star 2003
THE STAR
Saturday, June 07, 2003
Penal colony where pirates used to roam
By Liz Price
WE were going on holiday to a place which used to be a haven for pirates and, more recently, a penal colony and place of detention for political prisoners.
The name of our destination means “old, mysterious and primitive”. Despite the dubious history and name, it turned out to be a stunning place, a beautiful tropical island with golden sands, green seas and wonderful sunsets.
We were on Ko Tarutao.
Only 5km from Langkawi
Ko Tarutao is small island in the Andaman Sea off the west coast of Satun, the southernmost province of Thailand. The island is part of the Ko Tarutao National Marine Park, which is a large archipelago of 51 islands approximately 30km from Pak Bara in La-Ngu district, 60km northwest of Satun town.
The islands are north of Langkawi, and form part of the same geological group. In fact the main island of Tarutao is only 5km from Langkawi. These islands are formed of granite and allied rocks, and there is also much limestone. This means caves. The limestone on these islands are as old as the oldest cave-bearing limestone in Malaysia, some 450 million years old.
My friends had come out from England on a caving expedition-cum-beach holiday. This was a perfect area. We explored one fine river cave on Langkawi, then moved up to Satun, and explored more caves.
Following a hot Thai curry for breakfast, we negotiated a taxi to take us to Pak Bara. It was an ancient but huge car, and we paid less than RM25 for the 60km trip. Pak Bara is geared up for tourists, and we bought ferry tickets to Tarutao and visited the marine park office. It was an interesting 1½-hour boatride as we went past lots of scenic limestone islands and saw several dolphins.
When we arrived on Ko Tarutao, we paid our entrance fee to the Marine Park and bought a guidebook, then organised a room. There is a choice of accommodation from dorms to twins and doubles, and two-room lodges. You can also camp out on some beaches. Park HQ is at Ao Phante Malaka.
Cave with stalactites, stalagmites
Tham Chorakhe or Crocodile Cave is a tourist attraction not to be missed. A small boat took us up river, past lots of mangroves with occasional limestone cliffs jutting out of the forests. From the jetty a boardwalk leads over mangrove swamps, then there are steps down to the cave entrance.
The river enters the cave, so a pontoon walkway has been constructed on very noisy polystyrene blocks, which squeaked annoyingly as we walked along. The causeway swayed and wobbled, so I had to make sure I was steady before taking pictures of the stalactite formations. We came to a large dry chamber and were able to explore this with the help of electric lights. It was a nice cave with a lot of stalactites and stalagmites.
The other tourists turned round and went back out, but we were cavers, and the far end of the cave ahead beckoned us. We were separated from it by mud and water but as we were wearing our old caving shoes we thought it wouldn’t be a problem.
However we weren’t expecting the mangrove mud to be so thick and sticky. It took a tenacious hold of our shoes, and it was a real struggle to move as with each step we sank in mud above ankle level. We were getting nowhere, and so decided to give up. Even getting back to the dry chamber was a real struggle, the mud certainly didn’t want to give up its grip on our shoes.
Wildlife and marine life
None of the islands in the Marine Park has been allowed to be developed by private operators. Only five of the islands have a regular boat service, and only three of these – Tarutao, Adang and Lipe – are generally visited by tourists. Tarutao is the biggest and has waterfalls, inland rivers, caves, beaches and protected wildlife. Wildlife on the island includes dusky langur, mousedeer, wild pig, fishing cat and crab-eating macaque.
In Crocodile Cave we saw crabs and mice. Marine life includes dolphins, dugongs, lobsters and turtles. Four types of turtle lay their eggs on the beaches between September and April.
Chequered history
The island was a place of exile for political prisoners from 1939 to 1947, and the remains of the prison can be seen on the southern tip of the island and the middle of the east coast. There is also a graveyard, charcoal furnaces and fermentation tanks for making naam plaa or fish sauce. Many prisoners were revolutionary groups who had held unsuccessful coup attempts. Escape from the island was a grim prospect, due to the sharks, crocodiles and fierce guards.
The political prisoners enjoyed an open prison atmosphere separate from the common convicts. One third of the convicts died on the island, many from malaria. During the Second World War, order broke down. Supplies no longer came from the mainland and both guards and prisoners soon became the most feared pirates in the area, preying on merchant ships as they sailed through the Straits of Malacca.
After the war, British naval troops were sent to Tarutao to clean out the pirate groups. The prisons were closed, and villagers from the mainland began to settle on the island and became fishermen and farmers.
In 1974 Tarutao became Thailand’s second marine national park. The villagers were unhappy about this, and most moved away, leaving just 17 families.
Surprises
A road runs down the length of the island. Some 11km of its length was built by the prisoners in the 1940s, while the more recent 12km was constructed by the park division. Today the road is mostly overgrown but park personnel have kept a path open to make it easier to get from north to south without having to climb over rocky headlands along the shore.
We decided to look for some other caves we had read about, one of which was Tham Tarun. We walked along the road, and it was hard work in the sun especially on a long, uphill stretch. Downhill was OK but we realised we’d missed the cave, as we’d come down to sea level, and saw signboards to beaches and waterfalls. So we slogged back up the hill and explored a small cave we found near the road. We had almost reached the top of the hill when a 10-ton truck came along and gave us a lift back to HQ. We were very thankful.
We did little else that day except swim and look round the information centre and library. Tarutao’s library is a goldmine of science textbooks and 19th century English literature. The visitors’ centre has natural history exhibits and information about the prison era, as well as a scale model of the park.
Behind the Park HQ is Toe Boo cliff, and this is a great place to climb up to see the views and also the sunset. It is an area of limestone, with mini cliffs and holes, but no real caves. We were lucky and had glorious sunsets a couple of evenings.
Ko Tarutao is definitely worth a visit as it doesn’t suffer from mass tourism and remains unspoilt. And as it is so close to Malaysia, it is easily reached by road and boat.
Fact File
When to go: Officially Ko Tarutao is only open from November to May when there is a regular boat service from Pak Bara, twice a day. Visitors who show up during the monsoon can stay in the park accommodation if they have their own food.
Where to stay: The bungalows can be booked in advance at Pak Bara, or else booked upon arrival on the island. They are more expensive than in other parts of Thailand, and the restaurant is pricey, so make sure you bring enough money – we ran out of the baht but luckily the park staff were willing to change for us.
For those who don’t want to go alone, tours can be arranged from Satun or Trang.
How to get there: To get to Satun by road, the closest border crossing is Wang Kelian in Perlis; then it is about 40km to Satun town. Or you can reach Satun by boat from Langkawi or Kuala Perlis. Satun to Pak Bara jetty is about 60km.
Taxis leave from near the Satul Thanee Hotel and cost 30 (RM2.70) baht per person. Bus is 18 baht.
By boat: Boats from Tarutao to Pak Bara leave regularly between November and April, at 10.30am and 3pm . Return fare is 200 baht (RM18). Takes 11/2-2 hours, depending on the boat; food and drinks are available on board.
Extra boats may run during peak times.
Saturday, June 07, 2003
Penal colony where pirates used to roam
By Liz Price
WE were going on holiday to a place which used to be a haven for pirates and, more recently, a penal colony and place of detention for political prisoners.
The name of our destination means “old, mysterious and primitive”. Despite the dubious history and name, it turned out to be a stunning place, a beautiful tropical island with golden sands, green seas and wonderful sunsets.
We were on Ko Tarutao.
Only 5km from Langkawi
Ko Tarutao is small island in the Andaman Sea off the west coast of Satun, the southernmost province of Thailand. The island is part of the Ko Tarutao National Marine Park, which is a large archipelago of 51 islands approximately 30km from Pak Bara in La-Ngu district, 60km northwest of Satun town.
The islands are north of Langkawi, and form part of the same geological group. In fact the main island of Tarutao is only 5km from Langkawi. These islands are formed of granite and allied rocks, and there is also much limestone. This means caves. The limestone on these islands are as old as the oldest cave-bearing limestone in Malaysia, some 450 million years old.
My friends had come out from England on a caving expedition-cum-beach holiday. This was a perfect area. We explored one fine river cave on Langkawi, then moved up to Satun, and explored more caves.
Following a hot Thai curry for breakfast, we negotiated a taxi to take us to Pak Bara. It was an ancient but huge car, and we paid less than RM25 for the 60km trip. Pak Bara is geared up for tourists, and we bought ferry tickets to Tarutao and visited the marine park office. It was an interesting 1½-hour boatride as we went past lots of scenic limestone islands and saw several dolphins.
When we arrived on Ko Tarutao, we paid our entrance fee to the Marine Park and bought a guidebook, then organised a room. There is a choice of accommodation from dorms to twins and doubles, and two-room lodges. You can also camp out on some beaches. Park HQ is at Ao Phante Malaka.
Cave with stalactites, stalagmites
Tham Chorakhe or Crocodile Cave is a tourist attraction not to be missed. A small boat took us up river, past lots of mangroves with occasional limestone cliffs jutting out of the forests. From the jetty a boardwalk leads over mangrove swamps, then there are steps down to the cave entrance.
The river enters the cave, so a pontoon walkway has been constructed on very noisy polystyrene blocks, which squeaked annoyingly as we walked along. The causeway swayed and wobbled, so I had to make sure I was steady before taking pictures of the stalactite formations. We came to a large dry chamber and were able to explore this with the help of electric lights. It was a nice cave with a lot of stalactites and stalagmites.
The other tourists turned round and went back out, but we were cavers, and the far end of the cave ahead beckoned us. We were separated from it by mud and water but as we were wearing our old caving shoes we thought it wouldn’t be a problem.
However we weren’t expecting the mangrove mud to be so thick and sticky. It took a tenacious hold of our shoes, and it was a real struggle to move as with each step we sank in mud above ankle level. We were getting nowhere, and so decided to give up. Even getting back to the dry chamber was a real struggle, the mud certainly didn’t want to give up its grip on our shoes.
Wildlife and marine life
None of the islands in the Marine Park has been allowed to be developed by private operators. Only five of the islands have a regular boat service, and only three of these – Tarutao, Adang and Lipe – are generally visited by tourists. Tarutao is the biggest and has waterfalls, inland rivers, caves, beaches and protected wildlife. Wildlife on the island includes dusky langur, mousedeer, wild pig, fishing cat and crab-eating macaque.
In Crocodile Cave we saw crabs and mice. Marine life includes dolphins, dugongs, lobsters and turtles. Four types of turtle lay their eggs on the beaches between September and April.
Chequered history
The island was a place of exile for political prisoners from 1939 to 1947, and the remains of the prison can be seen on the southern tip of the island and the middle of the east coast. There is also a graveyard, charcoal furnaces and fermentation tanks for making naam plaa or fish sauce. Many prisoners were revolutionary groups who had held unsuccessful coup attempts. Escape from the island was a grim prospect, due to the sharks, crocodiles and fierce guards.
The political prisoners enjoyed an open prison atmosphere separate from the common convicts. One third of the convicts died on the island, many from malaria. During the Second World War, order broke down. Supplies no longer came from the mainland and both guards and prisoners soon became the most feared pirates in the area, preying on merchant ships as they sailed through the Straits of Malacca.
After the war, British naval troops were sent to Tarutao to clean out the pirate groups. The prisons were closed, and villagers from the mainland began to settle on the island and became fishermen and farmers.
In 1974 Tarutao became Thailand’s second marine national park. The villagers were unhappy about this, and most moved away, leaving just 17 families.
Surprises
A road runs down the length of the island. Some 11km of its length was built by the prisoners in the 1940s, while the more recent 12km was constructed by the park division. Today the road is mostly overgrown but park personnel have kept a path open to make it easier to get from north to south without having to climb over rocky headlands along the shore.
We decided to look for some other caves we had read about, one of which was Tham Tarun. We walked along the road, and it was hard work in the sun especially on a long, uphill stretch. Downhill was OK but we realised we’d missed the cave, as we’d come down to sea level, and saw signboards to beaches and waterfalls. So we slogged back up the hill and explored a small cave we found near the road. We had almost reached the top of the hill when a 10-ton truck came along and gave us a lift back to HQ. We were very thankful.
We did little else that day except swim and look round the information centre and library. Tarutao’s library is a goldmine of science textbooks and 19th century English literature. The visitors’ centre has natural history exhibits and information about the prison era, as well as a scale model of the park.
Behind the Park HQ is Toe Boo cliff, and this is a great place to climb up to see the views and also the sunset. It is an area of limestone, with mini cliffs and holes, but no real caves. We were lucky and had glorious sunsets a couple of evenings.
Ko Tarutao is definitely worth a visit as it doesn’t suffer from mass tourism and remains unspoilt. And as it is so close to Malaysia, it is easily reached by road and boat.
Fact File
When to go: Officially Ko Tarutao is only open from November to May when there is a regular boat service from Pak Bara, twice a day. Visitors who show up during the monsoon can stay in the park accommodation if they have their own food.
Where to stay: The bungalows can be booked in advance at Pak Bara, or else booked upon arrival on the island. They are more expensive than in other parts of Thailand, and the restaurant is pricey, so make sure you bring enough money – we ran out of the baht but luckily the park staff were willing to change for us.
For those who don’t want to go alone, tours can be arranged from Satun or Trang.
How to get there: To get to Satun by road, the closest border crossing is Wang Kelian in Perlis; then it is about 40km to Satun town. Or you can reach Satun by boat from Langkawi or Kuala Perlis. Satun to Pak Bara jetty is about 60km.
Taxis leave from near the Satul Thanee Hotel and cost 30 (RM2.70) baht per person. Bus is 18 baht.
By boat: Boats from Tarutao to Pak Bara leave regularly between November and April, at 10.30am and 3pm . Return fare is 200 baht (RM18). Takes 11/2-2 hours, depending on the boat; food and drinks are available on board.
Extra boats may run during peak times.
Phattalung & Songkla (Star)
THE STAR
Saturday September 20, 2003
More than a seaside to Songkla
Story & Pictures by LIZ PRICE
IT was a tough decision each night. Should I have a local delicacy, such as a plate of fresh spicy noodles with seafood, or should I buy lots of snack items and make a picnic out of it? The food on display at the market stalls was enough to tempt the most discerning of gourmets.
I was in Phattalung in southern Thailand, ostensibly on a caving trip but it was starting to turn into an eating binge. Oh well, what the heck. Might as well indulge and combine my two passions in life.
I had arranged to meet my non-caving friend in Hat Yai, not having told him I would be dragging him around a few spelaeological sites. I took the bus up to Hat Yai from KL, and upon arrival, was soon ensconced in a comfortable cheap hotel, costing all of 150 baht (RM14) a night.
And then we immediately headed for one of my favourite eating-places, a small shop selling authentic Thai food, not often patronised by foreigners. A plateful of delicious spicy food costs less than RM3. Most Malaysians when visiting Hat Yai tend to go to expensive seafood restaurants catering for tourists, or to one of the many halal shops in the city centre.
The food in these places is generally expensive and toned down for the Malaysian palate, so you don’t get the kick of authentic Thai cooking.
Phattalung Province is south Thailand's major rice growing area.
Big Sea meets Little Sea
The following day we made a day trip to Songkla. This seaside town is the capital of Songkla Province, not Hat Yai as many people think. We took a bus — big buses and minivans frequently ply this route. We spent the day wandering, sitting and looking. The town has a pleasant feel as it is quieter and less busy than Hat Yai, and has retained its charm with old buildings and temples.
The National Museum has to be one of the most attractive museum buildings in Thailand. It is housed in a 100-year-old building of southern Sino-Portuguese architecture, painted red and white with a curved roofline. The museum contains exhibits from all national art style periods as well as Thai and Chinese ceramics and furniture. Outside the museum is a stretch of the old city wall dating from the 17th century.
Songkla lies on a peninsula between the Gulf of Thailand and a large inland sea. This inland sea, Thaleh Sap, is a huge brackish lake stretching up to Phattalung about 90km away, where it merges with the Thaleh Noi (Little Sea). There are two wildlife sanctuaries on this inland sea, and these are important wetland areas and a haven for waterbirds.
Another attraction of Songkla is the seafood, particularly along Hat Samila, a white stretch of beach lined with casuarina trees. At one end of the beach is a bronze statue of a mermaid, similar to that found in Copenhagen, Denmark.
The inhabitants of Songkla are a colourful mix of Thais, Chinese and Malays, and this is reflected in the architecture in the old part of town. Wat Klang is a 17th century Sino-Thai temple. Songkla is also southern Thailand’s education centre, and this is seen in the number of universities and colleges.
Eh, what ferry?
We then headed north to Phattalung, about 1½ hours by bus from Hat Yai. Phattalung Province is south Thailand’s major rice growing area and it has prospered. The eastern portion of the province is washed by the inland sea Thaleh Noi. Phattalung town is small and very few foreign tourists stay here, as they are normally dashing to or from the more popular beach areas and islands and Hat Yai. As a result, we found the locals very friendly.
You can tell by the number of gold dealers on one road that there is a large Chinese population.
But there is also still a strong Muslim influence, so there is no problem in finding halal food.
Its eastern portion is washed by the inland sea Thaleh Noi.
Phattalung is famous for the original nang thalung or shadow play (wayang kulit); in fact the name probably comes from Phattalung, as nang means untanned leather. The town lies between two picturesque limestone hills, which in English are called Punctured Chest Mountain and Broken Head Mountain. The Punctured Chest Mountain does have a cave tunnel through its upper peak. Of course, I had to investigate both these hills in my search for caves.
Wat Khuhasawan at the edge of town is a cave temple, the main chamber houses a reclining Buddha and numerous smaller seated Buddhas. Steps lead down further in to the cave, so I went to investigate whilst my friend stayed behind. We then climbed many steps to the top of the mountain where we had an excellent view over the town and surrounding plains, and the nearby Punctured Chest Mountain. We could see right across the inland sea and decided that the next day we would go out there and do a boat trip across the sea.
This proved to be a bit of a non-event. We took a songthaew (taxi van) out to Lam Pam, on the banks of the inland sea, and found the place deserted. We wandered around in vain looking for the supposedly regular ferry across the inland sea. There was no sign of this, just a few fishermen out in small boats.
Finally we asked at the only shop open and was told there is no longer a boat service.
Scenic walk to caves
So we walked back along the river, which was rather pleasant, and went to Wat Wang, Phattalung’s oldest temple, at more than 100 years old. It is a small but interesting place.
We then went back into town sharing a songthaew with a few baskets of dried fish and vegetables. This, of course, got my taste buds going, so when we reached town I dived into the mini-mart and bought some snacks and drinks. Thai supermarkets in rural areas are very civilised as they invariably have a stone table and chairs outside, so I could sit here and refuel before tackling the next set of caves.
Firstly, we had to take photos of the cave tunnel which pierces the high peak. The best view was from the middle of someone’s farm, and the owner was more than happy for us to plough through the vegetable and banana plants to get our shots. We then trekked down the road following the signs to Tham Malai, or Malai Cave. Despite the blazing heat, this was a scenic walk, as the road ran alongside the canal and railway line, with brilliant green padi fields stretching to the foot of the hill on the other side.
When we reached Tham Malai, we found a lot of construction work in progress, with a new road being built up the hill, and flights of steps being laid in the main cave. I managed to explore four caves in this small hill. Again, there were good views over the surrounding plains with the limestone towers sticking out prominently.
On the top of the hill are some Chinese shrines and a chedi (stupa), but this complex was locked. Some of the caves are archaeological sites, where votive tablets from the eighth to 15th centuries have been found.
Coconut omelette, anyone?
Having exhausted ourselves walking and climbing, we ambled back into town to enjoy the local food in the market. First item on the menu was a fresh fruit juice which cost less than RM1. Then I had to sample the khao yam which is dry rice mixed with coconut, peanuts, lime leaves and shrimps. Yum, delicious. This was followed by snacks from different stalls, including a coconut omelette. Although this sounds odd, the slightly salty tang of the fresh coconut really complimented the egg.
We then went to one of the many internet cafes to catch up with our e-mail, then prepared for the journey back to KL. W
Saturday September 20, 2003
More than a seaside to Songkla
Story & Pictures by LIZ PRICE
IT was a tough decision each night. Should I have a local delicacy, such as a plate of fresh spicy noodles with seafood, or should I buy lots of snack items and make a picnic out of it? The food on display at the market stalls was enough to tempt the most discerning of gourmets.
I was in Phattalung in southern Thailand, ostensibly on a caving trip but it was starting to turn into an eating binge. Oh well, what the heck. Might as well indulge and combine my two passions in life.
I had arranged to meet my non-caving friend in Hat Yai, not having told him I would be dragging him around a few spelaeological sites. I took the bus up to Hat Yai from KL, and upon arrival, was soon ensconced in a comfortable cheap hotel, costing all of 150 baht (RM14) a night.
And then we immediately headed for one of my favourite eating-places, a small shop selling authentic Thai food, not often patronised by foreigners. A plateful of delicious spicy food costs less than RM3. Most Malaysians when visiting Hat Yai tend to go to expensive seafood restaurants catering for tourists, or to one of the many halal shops in the city centre.
The food in these places is generally expensive and toned down for the Malaysian palate, so you don’t get the kick of authentic Thai cooking.
Phattalung Province is south Thailand's major rice growing area.
Big Sea meets Little Sea
The following day we made a day trip to Songkla. This seaside town is the capital of Songkla Province, not Hat Yai as many people think. We took a bus — big buses and minivans frequently ply this route. We spent the day wandering, sitting and looking. The town has a pleasant feel as it is quieter and less busy than Hat Yai, and has retained its charm with old buildings and temples.
The National Museum has to be one of the most attractive museum buildings in Thailand. It is housed in a 100-year-old building of southern Sino-Portuguese architecture, painted red and white with a curved roofline. The museum contains exhibits from all national art style periods as well as Thai and Chinese ceramics and furniture. Outside the museum is a stretch of the old city wall dating from the 17th century.
Songkla lies on a peninsula between the Gulf of Thailand and a large inland sea. This inland sea, Thaleh Sap, is a huge brackish lake stretching up to Phattalung about 90km away, where it merges with the Thaleh Noi (Little Sea). There are two wildlife sanctuaries on this inland sea, and these are important wetland areas and a haven for waterbirds.
Another attraction of Songkla is the seafood, particularly along Hat Samila, a white stretch of beach lined with casuarina trees. At one end of the beach is a bronze statue of a mermaid, similar to that found in Copenhagen, Denmark.
The inhabitants of Songkla are a colourful mix of Thais, Chinese and Malays, and this is reflected in the architecture in the old part of town. Wat Klang is a 17th century Sino-Thai temple. Songkla is also southern Thailand’s education centre, and this is seen in the number of universities and colleges.
Eh, what ferry?
We then headed north to Phattalung, about 1½ hours by bus from Hat Yai. Phattalung Province is south Thailand’s major rice growing area and it has prospered. The eastern portion of the province is washed by the inland sea Thaleh Noi. Phattalung town is small and very few foreign tourists stay here, as they are normally dashing to or from the more popular beach areas and islands and Hat Yai. As a result, we found the locals very friendly.
You can tell by the number of gold dealers on one road that there is a large Chinese population.
But there is also still a strong Muslim influence, so there is no problem in finding halal food.
Its eastern portion is washed by the inland sea Thaleh Noi.
Phattalung is famous for the original nang thalung or shadow play (wayang kulit); in fact the name probably comes from Phattalung, as nang means untanned leather. The town lies between two picturesque limestone hills, which in English are called Punctured Chest Mountain and Broken Head Mountain. The Punctured Chest Mountain does have a cave tunnel through its upper peak. Of course, I had to investigate both these hills in my search for caves.
Wat Khuhasawan at the edge of town is a cave temple, the main chamber houses a reclining Buddha and numerous smaller seated Buddhas. Steps lead down further in to the cave, so I went to investigate whilst my friend stayed behind. We then climbed many steps to the top of the mountain where we had an excellent view over the town and surrounding plains, and the nearby Punctured Chest Mountain. We could see right across the inland sea and decided that the next day we would go out there and do a boat trip across the sea.
This proved to be a bit of a non-event. We took a songthaew (taxi van) out to Lam Pam, on the banks of the inland sea, and found the place deserted. We wandered around in vain looking for the supposedly regular ferry across the inland sea. There was no sign of this, just a few fishermen out in small boats.
Finally we asked at the only shop open and was told there is no longer a boat service.
Scenic walk to caves
So we walked back along the river, which was rather pleasant, and went to Wat Wang, Phattalung’s oldest temple, at more than 100 years old. It is a small but interesting place.
We then went back into town sharing a songthaew with a few baskets of dried fish and vegetables. This, of course, got my taste buds going, so when we reached town I dived into the mini-mart and bought some snacks and drinks. Thai supermarkets in rural areas are very civilised as they invariably have a stone table and chairs outside, so I could sit here and refuel before tackling the next set of caves.
Firstly, we had to take photos of the cave tunnel which pierces the high peak. The best view was from the middle of someone’s farm, and the owner was more than happy for us to plough through the vegetable and banana plants to get our shots. We then trekked down the road following the signs to Tham Malai, or Malai Cave. Despite the blazing heat, this was a scenic walk, as the road ran alongside the canal and railway line, with brilliant green padi fields stretching to the foot of the hill on the other side.
When we reached Tham Malai, we found a lot of construction work in progress, with a new road being built up the hill, and flights of steps being laid in the main cave. I managed to explore four caves in this small hill. Again, there were good views over the surrounding plains with the limestone towers sticking out prominently.
On the top of the hill are some Chinese shrines and a chedi (stupa), but this complex was locked. Some of the caves are archaeological sites, where votive tablets from the eighth to 15th centuries have been found.
Coconut omelette, anyone?
Having exhausted ourselves walking and climbing, we ambled back into town to enjoy the local food in the market. First item on the menu was a fresh fruit juice which cost less than RM1. Then I had to sample the khao yam which is dry rice mixed with coconut, peanuts, lime leaves and shrimps. Yum, delicious. This was followed by snacks from different stalls, including a coconut omelette. Although this sounds odd, the slightly salty tang of the fresh coconut really complimented the egg.
We then went to one of the many internet cafes to catch up with our e-mail, then prepared for the journey back to KL. W
Mae Hong Son - Fish Cave (Star)
THE STAR
L I F E S T Y L E Travel & Adventure
Saturday February 4, 2006
Wats the draw?
By Liz Price
The mountain road was full of twists and turns. Rain was pouring down and mist obscured the view. I was hoping to get some good photos but the weather was preventing this. The constant turning of the car meant I could never keep the camera steady. We were on the winding road from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son in northern Thailand.
Luckily, the driver was competent and we negotiated the bends with relative ease. I read in the guidebook that it takes six hours by bus to do the 245km distance. Fortunately, we travelled at a faster pace.
Mae Hong Son is Thailand’s northern border city, hidden between towering mountains of densely forested slopes.
Just 30 years ago, this province was little known to tourists. It was home to hill tribesmen, opium armies, Burmese border patrols and the Thai military, who were involved in year-round fights with the drug barons.
(Above & below) Wats of Mae Hong Son. —Pictures by LIZ PRICE
Impenetrable jungle covered the misty mountains and only the tribesmen and drug caravans knew the way through. But that has all changed and today, Mae Hong Son is a peaceful tourist centre, known for its scenery and culture. The drug lords moved across the border to Myanmar, and much of the province’s income is derived from supplying them with rice and consumer goods.
The people of Mae Hong Son consist of the Shans who live in the city and the hill tribe people who live in remote mountain villages where their lifestyle has changed little in hundreds of years.
The Shan originated from Myanmar. The hill tribes consist of the Karen, Lisu, Mhong, Lahu and Lua. Both groups have their own distinctive customs, traditions, lilting dialect, architecture and delicious cuisine.
Throughout the year, Mae Hong Son holds many festivals and events. There are different dances, rituals and ceremonies, and even different kinds of food.
The city is covered in mist all year long, and is nicknamed “the City of Three Mists”. This is because it has dewy mist in the winter, forest fire mist in the summer and rainy mist in the rainy season.
The best time to visit is between November and March, as it’s relatively dry then.
On our first morning we drove up the Doi Kong Mu hill to see the temple and look at the view. Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu (also known as Wat Phai Doi) is a Shan-built temple sitting atop the 1500m hill. It has two stupas dating back to 1860 and 1874. The view from the wat was stunning. There was a sea of mist but the fog soon lifted, revealing a view of the town. The airport runway was devoid of life, but there are at least four flights a day to Chiang Mai.
In the southern part of town are two wats situated by a large pond. Wat Jong Kham was built almost 200 years ago by the Shan. Wat Jong Klang has some century-old paintings. In some areas in this wat, women are forbidden to enter.
Mae Hong Son isn’t known for its gastronomic delights, but there are many places to eat. There is also an increasing number of bakeries and other places providing farang (mat salleh) food. Many farangs come to this area for trekking and there are more and more guesthouses, restaurants and tour operators opening up to serve them.
We stayed in Rooks Resort at the south end of town, and, according to the guidebook, it’s “the top end in town”.
Several European holidaymakers were enjoying the swimming pool but I found it too cold to take a dip.
The town is mostly used as a base for activities such as trekking and rafting. The nearby Mae Hong Son River is used for rafting and boating tours. You can go for an elephant ride or for the more active, trekking is very popular. Several guesthouses and tour agents in town arrange treks.
Typical rates for treks are 400B-500B a day (RM40-RM50), which last three to five days. You sleep and eat in the hill tribe villages. The Padaung Karen villages with the so-called giraffe-necked women are especially popular. Alternatively, you can visit Karen villages without a guide by walking two hours out of town. Guesthouses will supply a map and the roads are well signposted.
Further from town are hot springs and the Tham Plaa National Park with the famous Fish Cave. Some of the most beautiful scenery is along the road to Pai. You can stay in traditional Shan villages and trek through forests along mountain paths, and see clear mountain streams and stunning limestone caves.
So even though the town of Mae Hong Son isn’t packed with tourist attractions, there are plenty of outdoor activities to enjoy within its vicinity W
Travel tips
From Chiang Mai, go by plane or bus to Mae Hong Son.
Accommodation ranges from budget to top end. There are many travel agents where you can arrange tours. The best time to go is from November to March.
Related Stories:
Curious coil custom of the Karen
L I F E S T Y L E Travel & Adventure
Saturday February 4, 2006
Wats the draw?
By Liz Price
The mountain road was full of twists and turns. Rain was pouring down and mist obscured the view. I was hoping to get some good photos but the weather was preventing this. The constant turning of the car meant I could never keep the camera steady. We were on the winding road from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son in northern Thailand.
Luckily, the driver was competent and we negotiated the bends with relative ease. I read in the guidebook that it takes six hours by bus to do the 245km distance. Fortunately, we travelled at a faster pace.
Mae Hong Son is Thailand’s northern border city, hidden between towering mountains of densely forested slopes.
Just 30 years ago, this province was little known to tourists. It was home to hill tribesmen, opium armies, Burmese border patrols and the Thai military, who were involved in year-round fights with the drug barons.
(Above & below) Wats of Mae Hong Son. —Pictures by LIZ PRICE
Impenetrable jungle covered the misty mountains and only the tribesmen and drug caravans knew the way through. But that has all changed and today, Mae Hong Son is a peaceful tourist centre, known for its scenery and culture. The drug lords moved across the border to Myanmar, and much of the province’s income is derived from supplying them with rice and consumer goods.
The people of Mae Hong Son consist of the Shans who live in the city and the hill tribe people who live in remote mountain villages where their lifestyle has changed little in hundreds of years.
The Shan originated from Myanmar. The hill tribes consist of the Karen, Lisu, Mhong, Lahu and Lua. Both groups have their own distinctive customs, traditions, lilting dialect, architecture and delicious cuisine.
Throughout the year, Mae Hong Son holds many festivals and events. There are different dances, rituals and ceremonies, and even different kinds of food.
The city is covered in mist all year long, and is nicknamed “the City of Three Mists”. This is because it has dewy mist in the winter, forest fire mist in the summer and rainy mist in the rainy season.
The best time to visit is between November and March, as it’s relatively dry then.
On our first morning we drove up the Doi Kong Mu hill to see the temple and look at the view. Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu (also known as Wat Phai Doi) is a Shan-built temple sitting atop the 1500m hill. It has two stupas dating back to 1860 and 1874. The view from the wat was stunning. There was a sea of mist but the fog soon lifted, revealing a view of the town. The airport runway was devoid of life, but there are at least four flights a day to Chiang Mai.
In the southern part of town are two wats situated by a large pond. Wat Jong Kham was built almost 200 years ago by the Shan. Wat Jong Klang has some century-old paintings. In some areas in this wat, women are forbidden to enter.
Mae Hong Son isn’t known for its gastronomic delights, but there are many places to eat. There is also an increasing number of bakeries and other places providing farang (mat salleh) food. Many farangs come to this area for trekking and there are more and more guesthouses, restaurants and tour operators opening up to serve them.
We stayed in Rooks Resort at the south end of town, and, according to the guidebook, it’s “the top end in town”.
Several European holidaymakers were enjoying the swimming pool but I found it too cold to take a dip.
The town is mostly used as a base for activities such as trekking and rafting. The nearby Mae Hong Son River is used for rafting and boating tours. You can go for an elephant ride or for the more active, trekking is very popular. Several guesthouses and tour agents in town arrange treks.
Typical rates for treks are 400B-500B a day (RM40-RM50), which last three to five days. You sleep and eat in the hill tribe villages. The Padaung Karen villages with the so-called giraffe-necked women are especially popular. Alternatively, you can visit Karen villages without a guide by walking two hours out of town. Guesthouses will supply a map and the roads are well signposted.
Further from town are hot springs and the Tham Plaa National Park with the famous Fish Cave. Some of the most beautiful scenery is along the road to Pai. You can stay in traditional Shan villages and trek through forests along mountain paths, and see clear mountain streams and stunning limestone caves.
So even though the town of Mae Hong Son isn’t packed with tourist attractions, there are plenty of outdoor activities to enjoy within its vicinity W
Travel tips
From Chiang Mai, go by plane or bus to Mae Hong Son.
Accommodation ranges from budget to top end. There are many travel agents where you can arrange tours. The best time to go is from November to March.
Related Stories:
Curious coil custom of the Karen
Canoeing around Krabi - Star
THE STAR
Saturday, September 14, 2002
Canoeing around Krabi
Story and pictures by LIZ PRICE
Drab wooden long-tailed boats nestle side by side with brightly coloured plastic kayaks. Traditional livelihood versus modern entrepreneurship. Fishing has been a time-honoured way of livelihood for the locals, but now sea canoeing or kayaking has become big business in Krabi, off the southwest coast of Thailand. You can canoe through a mountain, explore mangrove forests, or paddle out to an island. The choi-ces are numerous, catering for all abilities and budgets. You can paddle alone, or join a tour for one day or longer. The scenery is stunning, whichever destination you pick, as this area is renown for its beauty, majestic limestone islands rising out of the blue seas, hills dripping with stalactites standing proud above the plains, and mangroves. Many of these hills are riddled with caves, and what better way to explore them than by canoe.
Imagine paddling through a dark cave, the only sounds are the lapping of water against the rocks, the gentle splash as paddles dip into the water, and maybe the twitter of bats roosting in the roof. The scene is ethereal, aeons-old stalactites hang down from the roof and stalagmites rise from the floor to meet them. Light filters in from the entrance silhouetting the palms and ferns growing on the cliff face outside. It is so peaceful.
Various operators work from Krabi and Phang Nga. Phang Nga is a tourist town, 90km from Krabi by road. I opt for SeaCanoe International, as they are the original operators and one of the most highly awarded Ecotourism companies in the past five years. The founder is an Australian, John Gray.
Our day starts in Krabi, when a long-tailed songthaew picks up the group of 10 from their respective hotels. We are driven to Ao Luk about 40km north of Krabi, which is the jumping off point for Than Bokkhorani National Park. The main attraction of this park is its waterfalls and flora, but we are here for the riverine part, the ancient caves, the petroglyphs (cave paintings) and the mangroves.
We stop at Bo Tho Pier where we see colourful canoes lined up along the riverbank. Whilst we have some snacks and are given dry bags to protect our cameras, etc, the staff prepare the boats. We are given a brief lesson in paddling, and then we squelch through the mud to our canoes –– either a single or a double canoe. These sit-on-top sea kayaks are easy to paddle and experience is not necessary. We strap our water bottles in place, put on sun cream and set off.
From the jetty, we paddle out to the mangroves, past a floating oyster and mussel farm. Ahead of us, small limestone hills protrude out of the water. I find myself frequently stopping to take photos.
Our first cave is actually a short tunnel through a small hill, Tham Lod, or Through Cave. As we leave the cave, a troop of langurs swing through the trees on the cliff above us. “More tourists,” they seem to be saying to themselves. A couple of other kayak companies operate in this area, so we are not the only visitors that day.
We paddle on peacefully while the guides keep an eye out for any other fauna around. We spy a monitor lizard which soon slides into the water as we approach. Mud skippers and fiddler crabs are prevalent along the waters edge. High above are sea eagles and other raptors circling around –– quite a common sight along this coastline. My main interest is to see the ancient petroglyphs at Tham Phi Hua To. As we approach the jetty, there are already several other canoes and long-tailed boats moored. .
Concrete steps lead up to the cave entrance, the steps were built in 2525, i.e. 20 years earlier. The Thais have their own calendar, which is about 543 years ahead of the Gregorian calendar. Tham Phi Hua To is also known as Tham Hua Kalok or Big Headed Monster Cave. A big- headed ghost reputedly lived in the cave. The cave is basically two large chambers, and the monster can be seen on one of the walls. It is a petroglyph, one of several ancient paintings found on the walls. They have been dated at 2000 or even 3000 years old, which would make them older than the paintings at Gua Tambun in Perak.
There are various pictures portraying animals and humans, and even an alien with a triangular head. I see a shaman, a fish, a dugong, a shark and a crocodile, a couple of people, and hands. There are two hands, one of which has six fingers. I don’t know if the artist made a mistake or whether he was symbolising someone with an extra digit. The paintings are red and black in colour, the red comes from the bark of a tree and the black from squid ink.
The cave chambers go through a hill and let in enough daylight to make a torch unnecessary. However, a torch comes in handy for seeing some of the paintings hidden in alcoves. From the back entrance, there is a good view over the mangroves to the coast, with lots of limestone hills jutting up. There are lots of shells littering the floor of the cave, probably left over by ancient cavemen picnicking there!
It is hard work paddling back to the jetty for lunch, as we are paddling against the wind and the river has become quite choppy. However, the food is worth the effort — fresh seafood, Thai curries and soups, followed by platefuls of fresh fruit. It is tempting to overeat, but we have to make sure we can paddle for the afternoon session.
This time, we paddle upriver to the next cave, again called Tham Lod. Every other cave in Thailand has this name, which is about as imaginative as Dark Cave or Bat Cave! But unlike the earlier Tham Lod, this one is dark, due to a bend which prevents daylight from penetrating. We come out into a beautiful wang or hidden valley. It is circular and surrounded by high cliffs. I notice some ancient cycads high above, these are primitive palm-like plants, a relict from the Jurassic era. During the age of the dinosaurs, the cycads were the most prevalent plants on Earth. One of the reasons why cycads have survived all this time is that they can grow in very harsh conditions, such as on dry rock faces. They can often be seen clinging to sheer limestone cliffs.
The only way back is through the cave. We spend the rest of the afternoon paddling through the mangroves and visiting other cave tunnels. On the drive back to Krabi, we drop by a beautiful stream near Thapom. The King and Queen recently visited the site, hence the plank walk leading to the pool. There is a beautiful clear stream which comes from a spring about 1km away. Mangrove roots which look like snakes, entwine along the banks. We jump into the water to wash off the sweat from the day, the water is really cold, but invigorating.
Sea canoeing is also very popular in Phuket. There are many accessible islands to explore and the coastline itself is stunning with sheer cliffs, dropping right down to sea level. The main feature of the islands is the hongs. These are deep open-roofed chasms with vertical sides, only accessible by paddling through the tunnels at low tide. Inside the hongs are giant mangroves, vegetation-covered walls, monkeys and other wildlife. It is like being in a lost world.
Gray was the first to introduce them to the tourist world. The locals, of course, have known about these sites for a long time, and have collected birds’ nests from within the caves. Ko Hong or Hong Island, off Phang Nga is one of the most visited islands, in the centre of which is a hidden lagoon.
The beauty of exploring the area by canoe is that you can go as part of a tour group, or just as an individual, depending on your preference. Many people just rent a canoe for a day and spend the time paddling around the coast exploring all the nooks and crannies. It is time well spent.
SeaCanoe International has offices in Krabi, Ao Nang and Phuket, and can be contacted at info@seacanoe.com Their website is http://www.seacanoe.com/ E
Saturday, September 14, 2002
Canoeing around Krabi
Story and pictures by LIZ PRICE
Drab wooden long-tailed boats nestle side by side with brightly coloured plastic kayaks. Traditional livelihood versus modern entrepreneurship. Fishing has been a time-honoured way of livelihood for the locals, but now sea canoeing or kayaking has become big business in Krabi, off the southwest coast of Thailand. You can canoe through a mountain, explore mangrove forests, or paddle out to an island. The choi-ces are numerous, catering for all abilities and budgets. You can paddle alone, or join a tour for one day or longer. The scenery is stunning, whichever destination you pick, as this area is renown for its beauty, majestic limestone islands rising out of the blue seas, hills dripping with stalactites standing proud above the plains, and mangroves. Many of these hills are riddled with caves, and what better way to explore them than by canoe.
Imagine paddling through a dark cave, the only sounds are the lapping of water against the rocks, the gentle splash as paddles dip into the water, and maybe the twitter of bats roosting in the roof. The scene is ethereal, aeons-old stalactites hang down from the roof and stalagmites rise from the floor to meet them. Light filters in from the entrance silhouetting the palms and ferns growing on the cliff face outside. It is so peaceful.
Various operators work from Krabi and Phang Nga. Phang Nga is a tourist town, 90km from Krabi by road. I opt for SeaCanoe International, as they are the original operators and one of the most highly awarded Ecotourism companies in the past five years. The founder is an Australian, John Gray.
Our day starts in Krabi, when a long-tailed songthaew picks up the group of 10 from their respective hotels. We are driven to Ao Luk about 40km north of Krabi, which is the jumping off point for Than Bokkhorani National Park. The main attraction of this park is its waterfalls and flora, but we are here for the riverine part, the ancient caves, the petroglyphs (cave paintings) and the mangroves.
We stop at Bo Tho Pier where we see colourful canoes lined up along the riverbank. Whilst we have some snacks and are given dry bags to protect our cameras, etc, the staff prepare the boats. We are given a brief lesson in paddling, and then we squelch through the mud to our canoes –– either a single or a double canoe. These sit-on-top sea kayaks are easy to paddle and experience is not necessary. We strap our water bottles in place, put on sun cream and set off.
From the jetty, we paddle out to the mangroves, past a floating oyster and mussel farm. Ahead of us, small limestone hills protrude out of the water. I find myself frequently stopping to take photos.
Our first cave is actually a short tunnel through a small hill, Tham Lod, or Through Cave. As we leave the cave, a troop of langurs swing through the trees on the cliff above us. “More tourists,” they seem to be saying to themselves. A couple of other kayak companies operate in this area, so we are not the only visitors that day.
We paddle on peacefully while the guides keep an eye out for any other fauna around. We spy a monitor lizard which soon slides into the water as we approach. Mud skippers and fiddler crabs are prevalent along the waters edge. High above are sea eagles and other raptors circling around –– quite a common sight along this coastline. My main interest is to see the ancient petroglyphs at Tham Phi Hua To. As we approach the jetty, there are already several other canoes and long-tailed boats moored. .
Concrete steps lead up to the cave entrance, the steps were built in 2525, i.e. 20 years earlier. The Thais have their own calendar, which is about 543 years ahead of the Gregorian calendar. Tham Phi Hua To is also known as Tham Hua Kalok or Big Headed Monster Cave. A big- headed ghost reputedly lived in the cave. The cave is basically two large chambers, and the monster can be seen on one of the walls. It is a petroglyph, one of several ancient paintings found on the walls. They have been dated at 2000 or even 3000 years old, which would make them older than the paintings at Gua Tambun in Perak.
There are various pictures portraying animals and humans, and even an alien with a triangular head. I see a shaman, a fish, a dugong, a shark and a crocodile, a couple of people, and hands. There are two hands, one of which has six fingers. I don’t know if the artist made a mistake or whether he was symbolising someone with an extra digit. The paintings are red and black in colour, the red comes from the bark of a tree and the black from squid ink.
The cave chambers go through a hill and let in enough daylight to make a torch unnecessary. However, a torch comes in handy for seeing some of the paintings hidden in alcoves. From the back entrance, there is a good view over the mangroves to the coast, with lots of limestone hills jutting up. There are lots of shells littering the floor of the cave, probably left over by ancient cavemen picnicking there!
It is hard work paddling back to the jetty for lunch, as we are paddling against the wind and the river has become quite choppy. However, the food is worth the effort — fresh seafood, Thai curries and soups, followed by platefuls of fresh fruit. It is tempting to overeat, but we have to make sure we can paddle for the afternoon session.
This time, we paddle upriver to the next cave, again called Tham Lod. Every other cave in Thailand has this name, which is about as imaginative as Dark Cave or Bat Cave! But unlike the earlier Tham Lod, this one is dark, due to a bend which prevents daylight from penetrating. We come out into a beautiful wang or hidden valley. It is circular and surrounded by high cliffs. I notice some ancient cycads high above, these are primitive palm-like plants, a relict from the Jurassic era. During the age of the dinosaurs, the cycads were the most prevalent plants on Earth. One of the reasons why cycads have survived all this time is that they can grow in very harsh conditions, such as on dry rock faces. They can often be seen clinging to sheer limestone cliffs.
The only way back is through the cave. We spend the rest of the afternoon paddling through the mangroves and visiting other cave tunnels. On the drive back to Krabi, we drop by a beautiful stream near Thapom. The King and Queen recently visited the site, hence the plank walk leading to the pool. There is a beautiful clear stream which comes from a spring about 1km away. Mangrove roots which look like snakes, entwine along the banks. We jump into the water to wash off the sweat from the day, the water is really cold, but invigorating.
Sea canoeing is also very popular in Phuket. There are many accessible islands to explore and the coastline itself is stunning with sheer cliffs, dropping right down to sea level. The main feature of the islands is the hongs. These are deep open-roofed chasms with vertical sides, only accessible by paddling through the tunnels at low tide. Inside the hongs are giant mangroves, vegetation-covered walls, monkeys and other wildlife. It is like being in a lost world.
Gray was the first to introduce them to the tourist world. The locals, of course, have known about these sites for a long time, and have collected birds’ nests from within the caves. Ko Hong or Hong Island, off Phang Nga is one of the most visited islands, in the centre of which is a hidden lagoon.
The beauty of exploring the area by canoe is that you can go as part of a tour group, or just as an individual, depending on your preference. Many people just rent a canoe for a day and spend the time paddling around the coast exploring all the nooks and crannies. It is time well spent.
SeaCanoe International has offices in Krabi, Ao Nang and Phuket, and can be contacted at info@seacanoe.com Their website is http://www.seacanoe.com/ E
Krabi rock climbing - Star
THE STAR
Saturday, April 27, 2002
Getting high in Krabi
Liz Price
The surface of the cliff in front of me had dozens of ropes hanging from the rocky heights above, and attached to these ropes were human spiders. It was like a scene from a science fiction film — human spiders creating a giant-sized web to trap some unseen prey. These homo-arachnids were strung at various heights up the cliff, all with one goal — to reach the top.
The spectacular limestone towers of Phra Nang dominate the local landscape. High cliffs extend right down to the water’s edge, and the Andaman sea is dotted with numerous islands of different shapes and sizes. This limestone actually starts in Malaysia, on the islands of Langkawi, and extends north into Thailand, running through the Taratao islands and up the peninsula through Satun and Trang, right into Krabi and Phang Nga provinces.
Many climbers flock to the Krabi area to climb spectacular walls in one of the world’s most beautiful tropical beaches. The weather is ideal and there are climbs to suit all levels of skill. There are challenging 6b routes for the expert climber and, for a novice like me, there are short walls. It had been years since I did any climbing, so I wasn’t going to try anything too difficult. And I was aware of a large audience comfortably watching from below.
The beginner’s wall, Muay Thai, is 50m high. During the peak season, as many as 300 visitors climb this wall daily. That explains the abundance of ropes dangling down like colourful spaghetti. I watched in fascination as one farang (mat salleh) climber headed for the top of the cliff. He had to negotiate a very exposed overhang. The Thai instructor who was ahead of him shouted encouragement and advice. The view from those rocky heights must be truly spectacular. The Thai instructors are superb climbers. They walked up the rock surface as if it was a Sunday stroll. They must have developed their skills by climbing almost every day. For a novice, there is a shorter wall about 15m high.
Rock climbing is the growing sport of the decade. The appeal is immediate and the rewards are addictive. Safety techniques are widely practised. Men and women of all ages are responding to the thrills, psychological challenges and exhilaration that are part of every climb. For this sport, macho strength is not a necessity.
The Krabi climbing industry started to boom in the 1990s, when it started gaining recognition amongst the international climbing community. Stories about the spectacular limestone cliffs towering above golden sands and clear blue waters spread around, and Krabi soon became a mecca for climbing enthusiasts. The first trickle of European climbers arrived in the mid-80s. The Phi Phi islands drew most of the pioneer climbers, and numerous routes were soon established. Then climbers discovered Phra Nang on the mainland. Railay (Rai Leh) beach had long been a favourite destination for backpac-kers, offering cheap accomodation in the form of bamboo huts. I first went there in 1988 before the climbing business started booming.
A talented group of young Thais soon began climbing and established a local climbing club as well as a mountain rescue team. Although they started out as novices, they studied the skills from visiting climbers and became expert climbers themselves. They learnt the basic techniques and set out to conquer the walls. Soon they were setting up their own routes.
Although Phra Nang is part of the mainland, it is isolated from the outside world by the large cliffs and steep valleys. These great walls of Phra Nang provide a stunning backdrop to the beaches that are packed with European sunbathers. The most popular beaches are Ao Nang, Railay and Phra Nang, and can only be reached by boat. I was amazed at the number of sun worshippers on the beaches. There was hardly a spare metre of sand between the bronzed bodies. Enterprising Thais were seen walking around selling cold drinks, fresh fruits, sticky rice and even sarongs. Long-tailed boats were bobbing gently in the aquamarine water, well away from the area reserved for swimming. It was good to note that safety is a prime concern here and the boats are restricted to a certain area.
There are several climbing schools offering courses ranging from half a day to three-day packages. The packages include instructions, equipment and insurance. You can also just opt to rent equipment, or hire a private guide as a climbing partner. The main outfitters are Kings Climbers, Tex Rock Climbing, Krabi Climbers, and Cliffs Man. The latter has an artificial climbing wall. Most of them are located on Railay’s east beach.
There are more than 450 bolted climbs. The climbs range from easy, short pitches with relatively large hand holds and stalactites to pull up on, to desperate faces of extreme difficulty. The routes are all named, imaginatively — Massage Secrets, Beauty and the Beast, Getting to Know You, and Lord of the Thais. The climbing walls are generally shady, and easily accessible.
Certain rock walls are off-limits because they are part of the Hat Noppharat Thara Ko Phi Phi National Marine Parks. This includes the walls outside the Princess Cave. For those who are not die-hard climbers, there are a couple of caves that can be visited. Tham Phra Nang Nok (Outer Princess Cave) is said to be home to a mythical sea princess. Local legend says that during the 3rd century B.C., a passing royal barge carrying an Indian princess foundered in a storm. Her spirit came to inhabit the cave, and grants favours to all who pay their respects. Local fishermen place carved wooden phalli in the cave as offerings to the Holy Princess (Phra Nang). A steep climb leads up into the large chamber of the cave.
A larger cave was discovered more recently. It is at the north end of Rai Leh Beach and is called Tham Phra Nang Nai (Inner Princess Cave). It used to be called Diamond Cave. The National Park authorities have lighted up the cave and built a concrete walkway for the convenience of visitors. There is an admission fee of 20 Baht (RM2). The generator is switched on every other half hour, or when visitors show up. There is a beautiful golden flowstone in the cave, as well as some stunning stalagmites and stalactites. This cave is rumoured to be the grand palace of the princess, whilst the other cave is her summer palace. The cliffs outside the cave offer more climbing routes.
Inside the Phra Nang cliff is a hidden lagoon called Sa Phra Nang (Holy Princess Pool). This can be reached by following a sometimes slippery trail up the side of the mountain. Ropes are in place to guide hikers and there are warning notices telling visitors they must use the ropes. About 50m up the trial, you will reach a window in the cliff, which gives a good view of the beaches below. It takes about 45 minutes to reach the pool. The more adventurous hiker can climb to the top of the mountain and get an aerial view of the entire cape and the surrounding islands.
Visitors also can enjoy snorkelling off the beaches, although snorkelling is better at the nearby islands, which can be reached by boat. The boat taxis are frequent and prices are fixed. Sea kayaking is another option and canoes can be rented from various places.
This part of Krabi is really stunning in terms of scenery and offers a range of rock and water activities. Accom-modation is plentiful and caters to all budgets — from simple hut to luxury resorts. You can also find a variety of food — Thai, European and Muslim cuisines are found everywhere. Krabi is within driving distance from Malaysia, and the roads are good, with signboards in English. Public transport is also easy, cheap and frequent. There are flights to Krabi from Phuket and Bangkok. Motorbikes, jeeps and cars can be hired if you want to explore the surrounding countryside. It is certainly a great place to spend a holiday. E
Saturday, April 27, 2002
Getting high in Krabi
Liz Price
The surface of the cliff in front of me had dozens of ropes hanging from the rocky heights above, and attached to these ropes were human spiders. It was like a scene from a science fiction film — human spiders creating a giant-sized web to trap some unseen prey. These homo-arachnids were strung at various heights up the cliff, all with one goal — to reach the top.
The spectacular limestone towers of Phra Nang dominate the local landscape. High cliffs extend right down to the water’s edge, and the Andaman sea is dotted with numerous islands of different shapes and sizes. This limestone actually starts in Malaysia, on the islands of Langkawi, and extends north into Thailand, running through the Taratao islands and up the peninsula through Satun and Trang, right into Krabi and Phang Nga provinces.
Many climbers flock to the Krabi area to climb spectacular walls in one of the world’s most beautiful tropical beaches. The weather is ideal and there are climbs to suit all levels of skill. There are challenging 6b routes for the expert climber and, for a novice like me, there are short walls. It had been years since I did any climbing, so I wasn’t going to try anything too difficult. And I was aware of a large audience comfortably watching from below.
The beginner’s wall, Muay Thai, is 50m high. During the peak season, as many as 300 visitors climb this wall daily. That explains the abundance of ropes dangling down like colourful spaghetti. I watched in fascination as one farang (mat salleh) climber headed for the top of the cliff. He had to negotiate a very exposed overhang. The Thai instructor who was ahead of him shouted encouragement and advice. The view from those rocky heights must be truly spectacular. The Thai instructors are superb climbers. They walked up the rock surface as if it was a Sunday stroll. They must have developed their skills by climbing almost every day. For a novice, there is a shorter wall about 15m high.
Rock climbing is the growing sport of the decade. The appeal is immediate and the rewards are addictive. Safety techniques are widely practised. Men and women of all ages are responding to the thrills, psychological challenges and exhilaration that are part of every climb. For this sport, macho strength is not a necessity.
The Krabi climbing industry started to boom in the 1990s, when it started gaining recognition amongst the international climbing community. Stories about the spectacular limestone cliffs towering above golden sands and clear blue waters spread around, and Krabi soon became a mecca for climbing enthusiasts. The first trickle of European climbers arrived in the mid-80s. The Phi Phi islands drew most of the pioneer climbers, and numerous routes were soon established. Then climbers discovered Phra Nang on the mainland. Railay (Rai Leh) beach had long been a favourite destination for backpac-kers, offering cheap accomodation in the form of bamboo huts. I first went there in 1988 before the climbing business started booming.
A talented group of young Thais soon began climbing and established a local climbing club as well as a mountain rescue team. Although they started out as novices, they studied the skills from visiting climbers and became expert climbers themselves. They learnt the basic techniques and set out to conquer the walls. Soon they were setting up their own routes.
Although Phra Nang is part of the mainland, it is isolated from the outside world by the large cliffs and steep valleys. These great walls of Phra Nang provide a stunning backdrop to the beaches that are packed with European sunbathers. The most popular beaches are Ao Nang, Railay and Phra Nang, and can only be reached by boat. I was amazed at the number of sun worshippers on the beaches. There was hardly a spare metre of sand between the bronzed bodies. Enterprising Thais were seen walking around selling cold drinks, fresh fruits, sticky rice and even sarongs. Long-tailed boats were bobbing gently in the aquamarine water, well away from the area reserved for swimming. It was good to note that safety is a prime concern here and the boats are restricted to a certain area.
There are several climbing schools offering courses ranging from half a day to three-day packages. The packages include instructions, equipment and insurance. You can also just opt to rent equipment, or hire a private guide as a climbing partner. The main outfitters are Kings Climbers, Tex Rock Climbing, Krabi Climbers, and Cliffs Man. The latter has an artificial climbing wall. Most of them are located on Railay’s east beach.
There are more than 450 bolted climbs. The climbs range from easy, short pitches with relatively large hand holds and stalactites to pull up on, to desperate faces of extreme difficulty. The routes are all named, imaginatively — Massage Secrets, Beauty and the Beast, Getting to Know You, and Lord of the Thais. The climbing walls are generally shady, and easily accessible.
Certain rock walls are off-limits because they are part of the Hat Noppharat Thara Ko Phi Phi National Marine Parks. This includes the walls outside the Princess Cave. For those who are not die-hard climbers, there are a couple of caves that can be visited. Tham Phra Nang Nok (Outer Princess Cave) is said to be home to a mythical sea princess. Local legend says that during the 3rd century B.C., a passing royal barge carrying an Indian princess foundered in a storm. Her spirit came to inhabit the cave, and grants favours to all who pay their respects. Local fishermen place carved wooden phalli in the cave as offerings to the Holy Princess (Phra Nang). A steep climb leads up into the large chamber of the cave.
A larger cave was discovered more recently. It is at the north end of Rai Leh Beach and is called Tham Phra Nang Nai (Inner Princess Cave). It used to be called Diamond Cave. The National Park authorities have lighted up the cave and built a concrete walkway for the convenience of visitors. There is an admission fee of 20 Baht (RM2). The generator is switched on every other half hour, or when visitors show up. There is a beautiful golden flowstone in the cave, as well as some stunning stalagmites and stalactites. This cave is rumoured to be the grand palace of the princess, whilst the other cave is her summer palace. The cliffs outside the cave offer more climbing routes.
Inside the Phra Nang cliff is a hidden lagoon called Sa Phra Nang (Holy Princess Pool). This can be reached by following a sometimes slippery trail up the side of the mountain. Ropes are in place to guide hikers and there are warning notices telling visitors they must use the ropes. About 50m up the trial, you will reach a window in the cliff, which gives a good view of the beaches below. It takes about 45 minutes to reach the pool. The more adventurous hiker can climb to the top of the mountain and get an aerial view of the entire cape and the surrounding islands.
Visitors also can enjoy snorkelling off the beaches, although snorkelling is better at the nearby islands, which can be reached by boat. The boat taxis are frequent and prices are fixed. Sea kayaking is another option and canoes can be rented from various places.
This part of Krabi is really stunning in terms of scenery and offers a range of rock and water activities. Accom-modation is plentiful and caters to all budgets — from simple hut to luxury resorts. You can also find a variety of food — Thai, European and Muslim cuisines are found everywhere. Krabi is within driving distance from Malaysia, and the roads are good, with signboards in English. Public transport is also easy, cheap and frequent. There are flights to Krabi from Phuket and Bangkok. Motorbikes, jeeps and cars can be hired if you want to explore the surrounding countryside. It is certainly a great place to spend a holiday. E
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)