sign in a cave in Laos

8 June 2008

All Souls Day & cave temples - Star

Even the dead have needs

Stories by LIZ PRICE
Saturday April 5, 2008

THE STAR Lifestyle


Qing Ming or Cheng Beng, commonly known as All Souls’ Day is this Saturday. During this time, cemeteries will be busy as people clean up their family’s grave sites and pay respect to their ancestors.

The festival was originally held as a celebration of the mid-spring equinox, on the 104th day after the winter solstice.

If it is a leap year, as is the case this year, Qing Ming falls on April 4. On this day, the sky is expected to be clear and bright, hence the name Qing Ming, which translates as “clear and bright”.



A place to call home: This house is meant to be burned down to benefit a spirit.

The festival has a variety of names. These include Clear Brightness Festival, Festival for Tending Graves, Grave Sweeping Day, Chinese Memorial Day, Tomb Sweeping Day, Spring Remembrance and All Souls’ Day.

In Malaysia, Qing Ming is known as All Souls’ Day and is the designated time of the year to pay homage to dearly departed ancestors. Families also hope that the rituals of the festival will instil a sense of filial piety in the younger generation. Weekends are particularly busy as people converge to clean up the graves and spruce up the surroundings.

Nowadays, the festival has become quite commercial. In the past, only joss sticks and paper money were burnt as offerings. Today, families buy paper replicas of modern items to offer the dead. These include electronic items such as mobile phones, televisions, karaoke sets, refrigerators and computers.

I went to a shop in Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur and was amazed at the variety on offer: shoes, designer clothes, jewellery, even a shaving kit. There were also packs of cigarettes, cans of beer, liquor and hampers containing herbs and food supplements.

The luxury cars caught my eye. But the most elaborate of all was a paper house with a nice garden, a driveway leading to ornate gates, two luxury cars in the porch, and even a maid, guard and dog kennel. This sells for around RM70.

These paper items will be placed in a paper chest which is sealed, and the deceased’s name and date of death will be written on a piece of yellow paper glued on the chest (like an address on a parcel).



A kiln for burning paper offerings. — LIZ PRICE

Apart from offering the paper items to be burnt, the families will also give food, tea, wine and maybe cigarettes. In China, people carry willow branches as they believe these will ward off the evil spirits that wander about on Qing Ming.

People also visit columbariums to remember their ancestors. A columbarium is a room or building with niches to store funeral urns. The word originates from an 18th century Latin word for pigeon house, “columbe” meaning dove.

Many Buddhist temples have a columbarium, especially the cave temples around Ipoh. These are a hive of activity duting Qing Ming as people burn their offerings in the massive fires in specially-built brick kilns. Food and flowers are put out for the ancestors. Some temples allow only vegetarian food to be taken in.

The temples are usually full of smoke from the incense sticks and offerings that are burnt, and a blaze of colour from vases of flowers. The counters lined with food look like a buffet in an outdoor restaurant. Whole meals are laid out, with snacks such as fried chicken and barbequed meat.

At the altars are pink-coloured buns, as well as apples, oranges and other fruits. Sparrows and other small birds take advantage of this free feast.

Chinese temples throughout the country will be busy as people give prayers and remember their ancestors. Many temples don’t have places for burning, so the people just make offerings of fruit, flowers, incense and the like.

In the olden days, people celebrated Qing Ming Festival with performances such as dancing, singing and operas. Over the years, the celebration has become more of a time to remember departed relatives.


Ipoh’s cave temples
In Ipoh, some cave temples have a columbarium. Among the more famous ones are in Sam Poh Tong and Perak Tong.

Sam Poh Tong is located just south of Ipoh in Gunung Rapat. To one side of the cave temple is an area set aside for making offerings to the ancestors. Tables are set out for offerings of food, drinks and flowers. Further on is a row of kilns to burn paper offerings.

At the back of the temple are the old square kilns once used for cremations.

Today most of the cremations take place in a purpose-built building on the other side of the compound. The columbarium consists of floor-to-ceiling compartments, each holding a small plaque and photo to remember the deceased.

Perak Tong is located a few kilometres north of Ipoh on Jalan Kuala Kangsar. The temple was established in 1926 and is famous for its cave murals. The columbarium is located outside the cave temple.

Phang Nga Bay canoeing - BT 2007

Kayak your way through Thailand's island delights


Liz Price



24-Feb-07

HAVE you ever tried to take a photo of a moving bird while bobbing up and down in a canoe? It's not easy. The sea was a bit choppy, and as I paddled out of the cave, an egret was wading in the shallows of the cave entrance, looking for its lunch. It was a good opportunity to take a shot of a bird at such close quarters.

The views of the nearby limestone islands were stunning. The karst towers rose from the Andaman Sea like stately sentinels, and the reds and browns of the rocks were quite a contrast against the blue sky and green sea. It was a picture postcard scene.

The National Marine Park of Phang Nga Bay in southern Thailand is full of magnificent limestone islands. I had a window seat as the plane flew over this amazing bay on its approach to Phuket's International airport, and I saw dozens of islands dotted around, large and small, surrounded by water of different shades of blue and green.

Numerous boats take tourists daily to this area, in particular to James Bond Island, Ko Phing Kan, which was made famous when used for filming The Man with the Golden Gun.

I booked to do a sea canoe trip to the cave hongs, which is the Thai word for room. These hongs are inland open-air tidal lagoons, surrounded by sheer limestone cliffs. The only way in and out is through the caves. If the cave is quite low, the route through may only be open for about 20 minutes a day during low tide. Once the tide is high, the cave, or certainly the entrance will be underwater.

I was picked up early morning from my hotel and taken to Por Pier on the eastern side of Phuket. Here I joined the other paddlers and we were given a brief introduction before joining the boat.

During the hour's journey to our first destination, we had coffee, fresh fruit and an explanation of the things we would see during the day. The guide was very knowledgeable and showered us with lots of details, and there was a large file of information and photos we could browse through at our leisure.

It was surprisingly chilly as the boat sped along and I was a bit dubious about having to get into the water. I needn't have worried as when we arrived at Hong Island, the sun was shining to welcome us and the beauty of the place kept me busy with the camera. As the guides launched the yellow kayaks into the sea, they looked like bananas which had broken loose from the bunch. My guide manoeuvred the kayak to the steps of the boat so I could get in, and then we were speedily paddling to the cave entrance.

After the initial low entrance, the cave roof rose high above our heads. The water lapped against the cave walls, causing an eerie sound in places, and I could see why legends tell of cave monsters.

My torchlight picked out some stalagmites and stalactites. Ahead of us the roof suddenly lowered and the walls closed in leaving a gap not much larger than the kayak. I had to lie flat on my back to avoid scraping my nose on the roof.

We popped out in to a wang and gasped in wonder. It was beautiful. We were surrounded by sheer limestone walls that rose 100m above our heads, capped by green vegetation. It was like a secret garden, except the floor was covered by sea. Plants clung to the precipitous walls. A few bird called, but otherwise it was silent. A lost world. We paddled around the hong, admiring its beauty, before returning to the pitch black of the cave.

The next hong we visited was possibly more beautiful as there were mangrove trees inside. It was fun paddling around the mangroves with their serpent-like roots. We saw a young monitor lizard basking on a rock. It was obviously used to seeing humans paddling around its terrain and took no notice.

The third cave contained some beautiful stalactites, and a glistening white cascade of calcite crystals resembling a frozen waterfall. In the secret lagoon we spotted a troop of young macaques. They were playing in the branches just a few metres above the water so we were able to paddle right underneath them. This was a mistake as the monkeys let loose a golden shower. I could imagine them laughing to themselves and wondered if they did this to all the visitors. There was no sign of the adults, maybe they were watching from some higher vantage point.

We returned to the boat and had a scrumptious lunch of fresh fish, chicken curry, Thai soup and tempura. I was afraid to over-eat in case I sank when I went swimming. We were not the only ones to enjoy the meal, as the cook threw scraps of chicken overboard and suddenly the sky was full of Brahminy kites.

They appeared from nowhere and soon there was a dozen or more swooping down and plucking scraps of meat from the water. It was an amazing sight to see so many of these birds at such close quarters.

Our next cave was appropriately called Bat Cave as deep inside were a few colonies of bats. They seemed oblivious to our presence, which is a good sign as it means that human visitors don't disturb them.

There are several tour companies running these kayak trips daily, but they all take note of the ecotourism rules and do their best not to damage the environment.

This not only makes for an exciting experience but a satisfactory one, too.

The Brunei Times

Chasing tigers and elephants - Brunei Times

Published on The Brunei Times (http://www.bt.com.bn/en)

Chasing Bengal tigers and Indian elephants
Liz Price

KUALA LUMPUR


Sunday, November 18, 2007


EVER since my first visit to Asia two decades ago, it has been my ambition to see a wild elephant, although this was lower on my list than to see a tiger in the wild. That was my priority, to see a wild tiger, unchained and uncaged. In India, I visited several nature parks and wildlife sanctuaries. I went to the Jim Corbett National Park where many people manage to see tigers. Indeed the day I arrived, a group of European visitors had seen a mother tigress with cubs. This got my hopes up, and I eagerly went in search the next day, and saw nothing. I saw small reptiles, many species of birds, several types of deer, but no tigers. Those feline creatures were certainly elusive. This was the first National Park in India, and is situated in the north of Uttar Pradesh, 300km from Delhi. It was here that Project Tiger was launched 30 years ago, aimed at saving the tiger from extinction. I was wondering if they suddenly became extinct on the eve of my visit.

I didn't even see any wild elephants in the Jim Corbett Park, and the park is known for its elephants. Where were they all? I had the choice of doing an elephant safari, which meant riding an elephant in order to spot other wildlife, but instead I opted to do a jeep safari, in the hope that I would cover more terrain. I did, but it was unsuccessful and I was unlucky.

Later on my Indian travels, I went to the Sunderbans Tiger Reserve, the world's largest delta and mangrove swamp, and the world's largest estuarine sanctuary, situated 130km from Kolkata in West Bengal. There are an estimated 270 Royal Bengal tigers in the wildlife sanctuary, so I had high hopes. Many of these tigers are man-eaters. They are prone to attacking humans for food, and the locals resort to wearing masks on the back of their heads when are working in their fields, in an attempt to scare the tigers away. The tigers have become man-eaters due to the lack of other suitable prey in the area. There is an average of 40 maulings a year.

I spent several days in this park, accompanied by armed officers. I slept in remote huts, climbed up watchtowers, sat up overnight. Nothing. Even a dead goat tied in the lower branches of a tree as bait didn't attract any striped visitors. The Sunderbans is home to spotted deer, wild pigs, monkeys, herons, kingfishers and eagles, and although I saw most of those creatures, the 270 tigers were in hiding.

In Nepal I went to the Royal Chittwan Reserve. This park is noted for its one horned rhino, but it does also have tigers. I did a safari on elephant back to go animal spotting. Yes, I saw the rhinos, which was really wonderful, and exciting. But once again, the tigers were conspicuous by their absence.

I moved on to Thailand, and saw neither of my sought-after large mammals in the wild. The next destination was Malaysia. I knew Malaysia does have wild tiger and elephant populations, but sightings are not particularly common. I backpacked around Malaysia for two months, and saw neither creature in the wild. I travelled on to Indonesia, knowing I wouldn't see those creatures there. I had seen scores of wild elephants in Africa, but my desire was to see the Asian or Indian elephant.

I returned to Malaysia and spent some time doing voluntary projects with WWF Malaysia. This involved camping out in the jungle for up to 10 days at a time. We saw virtually every creature that lives in Malaysia, except for the rhino — and the tiger and elephant. My closest sighting was in Kelantan when I was on a caving trip. The scientist in the group, Dr Dionysius Sharma (Dino) spotted elephant and tiger footprints right outside a cave. I was so excited! This was my closest sighting to either of these creatures. There was one print of each, and quite fresh. We went into the cave and emerged on the other side of the hill, where we found mousedeer, tapir and pig paw marks, and more excitingly, three or four fresh elephant footprints.

We decided to go animal spotting that night. We set up camp a safe distance away in some rubber trees, then returned to the area to wait and look for animals. I heard a noise and was convinced it was an elephant, until Dino told me it was a frog. Oh well, try again! We stayed there for several hours but saw nothing. Once again those pachyderms and felines were not going to show themselves to me.

Over the years I made several trips to Taman Negara, staying up to a month at a time. I spent several nights trekking with one of the rangers, but we didn't see what I was looking for. The ranger told me that it is very rare for even the rangers to see tigers nowadays. They occasionally see the tracks but not the actual animal.

I did a lot of trekking alone, and stayed in the hides. I was lucky, and saw the "rarer" mammals such as tapir and even a panther on one occasion. I saw elephant footprints and even took photos as evidence. Then my luck changed. I did a trek out to the caves in the Kepayang area, sleeping overnight in Gua Kepayang Besar. Actually I didn't sleep, as it was the most terrifying night of my life. I was all alone. Firstly I was startled by lights flashing above my head, until I realised they were merely fireflies. I laughed at myself for being so stupid. But after I settled down to sleep I was disconcerted to hear scuffling and rustling noises close by. I kept shining my torch but could see nothing. The noises continued, and my fears mounted, and then I saw them — porcupine going about their normal night business, totally unfazed by my presence. I decided they were quite cute and nothing to worry about. But I still couldn't sleep.

Outside there was the sound of snuffling and movement and branches cracking. No way was I going out to find out what was there, and I spent the rest of the night restlessly tossing and turning as if on a bed of nettles. As soon as daylight broke through the trees I packed my bags, not wishing to spend a moment longer there than I had to. As I left the cave I walked straight into a pile of fresh, still steaming, elephant dung. That would explain the sound of cracking branches during the night!

I set off on my trek, and about 30 minutes later suddenly realised there was a large grey form ahead of me. Still unsettled after my scary night and rubbing sleep from my eyes, I wondered what was ahead of me in the gloom of the forest. Then I realised it was the donor of the steaming dung left outside the cave. Eureka! I had found my elephant. But I am ashamed to say that I ran away. I was so on edge, with nerves as taut as violin strings, that as soon as I saw the creature, I turned tail and quietly hurried away. My mind was telling me stories of how elephants sometimes attack humans, and because I was all alone, I wasn't prepared to stay and find out. Once I was a safe distance sway, I really regretted my action, as I hadn't even stopped to take a photograph.

Since then, I have been lucky enough to see the wild elephants in the Kinabatangan area of Sabah. I saw a total of about 15, and was able to get very close indeed to some of them. It was exciting to learn, a month after my visit, that these elephants have been declared to be a new, distinct subspecies, the Pygmy elephant. Originally it was thought they were a member of the Asian elephant group. I was fortunate to have seen them, as not all visitors to that area are so lucky.

Finally, I have seen the Asian elephant and its cousin the Pygmy elephant in the wild. I have seen the African elephant in its natural surroundings. And I've ridden the tamed Indian elephant.

All that remains now is to track down that elusive tiger.

The Brunei Times



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Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/travel/2007/11/18/chasing_bengal_tigers_and_indian_elephants

Rock climbing in Krabi - BT

Published on The Brunei Times (http://www.bt.com.bn/en)

The high life in Thai climbing heaven







Ascending to thrilling heights: Krabi in southwest Thailand is a paradise of tropical beaches, great rock climbing, a range of water activities and affordable room and board. Pictures: Liz Price


Liz Price

Friday, April 4, 2008


THE cliff face in front of me had dozens of ropes hanging from the rocky heights above, and attached to these ropes were human spiders. It was like the scene from a science fiction film, human spiders creating a giant size web to trap some unseen prey. These Homo-arachnids were strung at various heights up the cliff, all with one goal, to reach the top.

The spectacular limestone towers of Phra Nang in Krabi district dominate the scenery. High cliffs extend right down to the water's edge, and the Andaman sea is dotted with numerous islands of a multitude of shapes and sizes.

This limestone actually starts in Malaysia, on the islands of Langkawi and extends north into Thailand, running through the Taratao islands, and up the peninsula through Satun and Trang, and into Krabi and Phang Nga provinces.

Many climbers flock to the Krabi area to climb spectacular walls in one of the word's most beautiful tropical beach environments. The weather is ideal and there are climbs to suit all levels of skill. There are challenging 8c routes for the expert climber, but for novice there are short walls specially geared up for beginners.

One wall suitable for beginners is Muay Thai, 50m high with around 20 climbs. In the high season, as many as 300 visitors a day will climb this wall. That explains the abundance of ropes dangling down like colourful spaghetti.

For the real novice, there is a shorter wall about 15m high. I watched in fascination as one farang (foreigner) climbed towards the top of the cliff, and had to negotiate a very exposed overhang. The Thai instructor shouted encouragement and advice from below. The view from those rocky heights must be truly spectacular.

The local instructors scale the rock faces as if it was a Sunday stroll, they are such superb climbers, having developed their skills by climbing almost every day.

Rock climbing is a fast growing sport. The appeal is immediate and the rewards are addictive. People of all ages respond to the thrills, psychological challenges and exhilaration that are an integral part of every climb.

Macho strength is not necessarily required, some climbers have quite a gymnastic style. Even some young children were enjoying themselves scaling the rock faces.

The Krabi climbing industry started to boom in the 1990s, once the secret was out among the international climbing community. Word soon spread that this was a magical area, a rock heaven and Krabi soon became a Mecca for climbing enthusiasts.

Stories went around of spectacular limestone cliffs towering above golden sands and clear blue waters. The first trickle of European climbers arrived in the mid-eighties. The Phi Phi islands drew most of the pioneers and numerous routes were soon established. Then the climbers discovered Phra Nang on the mainland, where Railay beach had long been a favourite destination for backpackers, offering very cheap bamboo huts.

A talented group of young Thais soon began climbing and established a local climbing club. Although they started out as novices they studied the skills from the visiting climbers and became expert climbers themselves. They learnt the basic techniques then set about to conquer the walls. Soon they were setting up their own routes.

The cliffs of Phra Nang are well known. Although Phra Nang is part of the mainland it is effectively isolated from the outside world by the large cliffs and steep valleys.

These great walls of Phra Nang provide a stunning backdrop to the beaches that are packed with European sunbathers. These beaches, Phra Nang, Railay and Tonsai, can only be reached by boat.

I was amazed at the number of sun worshippers, there was hardly a spare metre of sand between the bronzed bodies, talk about sardines in a can.

And the enterprising Thais were walking around selling cold drinks, fresh fruits, sticky rice and even sarongs and mats, and doing quite good business. Long-tailed boats were bobbing gently in the aquamarine water, well away from the area reserved for swimming. It was good to see that safety is a prime concern here and that the boats are restricted to where they can moor.

There are now several climbing schools in operation, offering courses ranging from a half day to three days. The packages include instruction, equipment and insurance.

Or you can just rent equipment, or hire a private guide as a climbing partner. The climbing shops at Railay work closely together to provide a high standard and safe climbing practices.

There are more than 700 bolted climbs. The climbs range from easy, short pitches with relatively large hand hold and stalactites to pull up on, to desperate faces of extreme difficulty.

The routes are all named, generally very imaginatively, such as Massage Secrets, Beauty and the Beast, Getting to Know You, Lord of the Thais.

The climbing walls are generally shady, and easily accessible from the bungalows, or by long tailed boat. Certain rock walls are off limits because they are part of the Hat Nopparat Thara - Mu Ko Phi Phi National Marine Parks.

This area of Krabi is really stunning in terms of scenery and offers a range of rock and water activities. Accommodation is plentiful and caters for all budgets from simple huts through to luxury resorts.

Food is also varied; Thai, European and Muslim cuisines are found everywhere. It is certainly a great place to brush up those climbing skills.

The Brunei Times


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Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/features/2008/04/04/the_high_life_in_thai_climbing_heaven

Plain of Jars, Laos - Brunei Times

Published on The Brunei Times

Laos' mysterious plain of man-sized jars

Liz Price
PHONSAVAN, LAOS
Sunday, November 11, 2007







Asian menhirs: The largest and most accessible of the various Laotian jar sites is home to 250 jars that weigh mostly from 600kg to one tonne each. The biggest weighs six tonnes. Picture: Liz Price


THE Plain of Jars is one of the most enigmatic sites in Laos. It is a large area littered with huge stone jars. The jars are surrounded by mystery as no one knows their real history, although researchers and archaeologists have offered several hypotheses over the years.

The Plain of Jars covers a big area which extends around Phonsavan in northeast Laos, in Xieng Khuang province. It is divided into about 15 sites, although more than 60 sites have been recorded covering a much wider area extending to Thailand and India.

Some of the theories as to the purpose of the jars are that they were used as sarcophagi, or as wine fermenters or even for storing rice. But there is no evidence confirming one theory over another as the jars have been found empty. A few of the jars have discs lying nearby, which are thought to be lids.

The jars were carved out of solid stone boulders, some from granite, but most from a conglomerate which is similar to sandstone. Only recently researchers found the quarries (actually boulder fields) where they think the stone originated, as the site contains half finished jars. This place is west of Muang Sui.

The jars are angular or round and can weigh up to 13 metric tonnes and range from one to three metres in height. They are thought to be between 1,500 and 2,000 years old. Some of the excavated material has been dated to around 500 BC - 800 CE.

After studies in the 1930's found that the artifacts included bones, beads, bronze and iron tools, it was thought that the jars were funerary urns. Vases found lying next to some of the jars may have held human remains. Aerial photos show the jars appear to be laid in a linear path that was probably a trade route. This leads to the theory the jars were used to store rainwater to supply travellers.

Of course there are local legends associated with the jars. It is said that a race of giants once inhabited the area. Legend tells of an ancient king who fought a long, victorious battle against his enemy. He supposedly created the jars to brew and store huge amounts of lao lao rice wine to celebrate his victory. Another story says that in the 6th century a cruel chieftain, Chao Angka, ruled the area. However the Lao-Thai hero Khun Jeuam supposedly came down from southern China to help the people, and deposed Angka. To celebrate his victory, Khun Jeuam had the jars constructed for the fermentation of rice wine. According to this version, the jars were cast from a type of cement that was made from buffalo skin, sand, water and sugar cane, and fired in a nearby cave kiln, Grotte Crematoire.

Grotte Crematoire is a small cave 23m long, consisting of a single chamber with natural holes in the top. Due to the evidence of smoke it was thought the cave may have been a crematorium and maybe the jars were used to deposit cremated human remains. The cave was found to contain human remains and also burned bones and ash, as well as unburned bones.

The Pathet Lao or Lao revolutionary movement used this cave during the 1960's war as a shelter, and an American bomb supposedly damaged the cave. You can still see trenches and bomb craters in the surrounding area. The town of Xieng Khouang was destroyed during the fighting between the Pathet Lao and American-backed anti-communist troops. A new town was built in the mid 1970s, known as Phonsavan.

Not all the sites have been fully excavated and researchers are always hoping to find sealed jars whose contents might still be intact. But the dangers of unexploded ordnance (UXO) have slowed progress over the years. Only Sites 1, 2 and 3 are considered relatively free of UXO and therefore open to visitors. Even at those sites you should stick to the worn footpaths and take note of the stone markers left by the UXO teams. UXO are explosive weapons (bombs, shells, grenades, etc.) that did not explode when they were employed, and still pose a risk of detonation, decades after they were used. Laos has the distinction of being one of the world's most heavily bombed nations. During the period of the American Vietnam War, over half-a-million bombing missions dropped more than 2 million tonnes of ordnance on Laos.

Site One is the largest of the various sites and the most accessible. It is home to 250 jars that weigh mostly from 600kg to one tonne each. The biggest weighs six tonnes. Some people say this was the victory cup of the mythical King Jeuam, so it's called Hai Jeuam. Near Site One is the Lao air force base.

Two other jar sites, Two and Three, are also easily accessible by road from Phonsavan. Site Two features 90 jars scattered across two adjacent hillsides. Site Three is more interesting, it has 150 jars on a scenic hilltop. It lies 10km further south from Site Two, and 35km from Phonsavan. To reach the site you have to hike for about two kilometres along rice paddies and then up the hill. In the nearby village of Ban Sieng Di is a small monastery with remains of Buddha images that were damaged during the war. The villagers live in unusually large houses and grow rice, sugar cane, avocado and bananas.

It is possible the jars are linked with the equally mysterious stone megaliths (menhirs) found off Route Six on the way north, 57km before Sam Neua in Houa Phan province. This is Hintang archaeological park with its 2,000-year-old standing stones. The jars could also be linked to the large Dongson drum-shaped stone objects discovered in Luang Prabang province.

It will be interesting to see if archaeologists will ever discover the real truth behind the Plain of Jars.

The Brunei Times


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Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/travel/2007/11/11/laos_mysterious_plain_of_man_sized_jars

The Splendours of Sawai (BT)

Published on The Brunei Times (http://www.bt.com.bn/en)


The splendours of Sawai
Liz Price

SAWAI, INDONESIA

Saturday, April 21, 2007


I SPENT all my free time sitting on the veranda of my floating house, admiring the view. It was perfect stilt houses sitting in the sea, really clear water with lots of fish, corals and starfish, small boats zipping around and a backdrop of scenic limestone cliffs. This was Sawai.

Sawai is a very small Muslim fishing village, located on the north coast of Pulau Seram. Seram is the largest island in Maluku Province, which is part of Maluku or The Moluccas, also known as The Spice Islands.

I had flown from Jakarta to Ambon, which is the capital of Maluku, and is a small town built alongside the beautiful Ambon Bay. From there I had taken a two-hour ferry ride to the south coast of Seram, landing at Amahai.

After an overnight stay, we went by car across the island to the north coast. This was a really scenic drive as we went straight through the Manusela National Park. This is a pristine area of densely forested hills, the highest peak being Gunung Binaya at 3,027m. I was amazed at the number of wild orchids growing alongside the road.

A few kilometres before Sawai, we stopped at the parrot rescue centre near Kampong Masihulan. This is a sanctuary where birds are rescued from trappers and hunters and are rehabilitated before being released into the wild. I saw cockatoos and parrots, colourful lories and even a hornbill and cassowary. The sanctuary is doing a great job of helping the indigenous birds.

As we approached Sawai we stopped to take photos as there were great views over the village. As we entered the village I was aware of how narrow the roads are, our car virtually touched the buildings either side of the road, which wasn't really built for vehicles.

We parked when the road became too narrow and continued on foot to Penginapan Lisar Bahari. Seeing a white face, the kids all called out "Hello mister" in the typical Indonesian greeting for a foreigner.

A smiling Pak Ali met us at the losman and showed me to my room and I was pleasantly surprised to see an en-suite bathroom. All the houses are built on stilts in the sea, as there is little dry land due to the fact that the forested hills come right down to the sea.

We went for a boat trip around the bay. The limestone cliffs rose steeply out of the water and their 300m high peaks were hidden in cloud at times. We went to the next village of Saleman to watch the evening bat flight.

A cave entrance is visible high up in the cliff behind the village, and every evening a stream of bats issues from the cave to go on their hunt for insects. There are so many bats streaming out that they form a black ribbon snaking across the sky. It was a wonderful sight.

The next day we trekked to a nearby cave, located in the Manusela National Park. The walk took about 40 minutes and was really interesting as I was able to see all kinds of trees such as nutmeg, clove, cocoa, durian and gandaria.

Having come to The Spice Islands I was particularly interested to see the spices growing in their natural setting.

The cave, Goa Hatu Putih, was quite beautiful with lots of stalagmites and stalactites, and we were able to see fruit bats and insect eating bats, as well as some inedible birds' nests.

Another highlight of my Sawai visit was the river trip. Pak Ali arranged this, and on the way to the Salawai river we saw some dolphins swimming quite close to the boat.

The river was particularly beautiful, with nipah palms coming right down to the water's edge. There were mangroves and sea pandans and of course sago palms. Sago is a staple food in Maluku and is eaten more than rice. I was in luck as we were able to stop and watch some men processing the sago on the river bank.

When the sago palm is about 15 years old, it flowers and then dies. This is the time when the sago is most abundant. The tree is cut down and the sago is removed from the trunk, mixed with water and then the resulting wet sago flour is scooped out and left to dry. One sago palm can give about 500kg of wet flour.

I was amazed at the number of butterflies and birds flying around the river. It would be a paradise for bird watchers. We went upriver as far as we could, and then progress was halted by a tree which had fallen right across the river. There was no way we could get past, so we made a return.

When we got back to the bay we headed for a deserted island where we had a picnic lunch. The island was so small I could walk right around in a few minutes, but it was such a scenic place with birds singing and lots of corals and shells on the sandy beach.

And I have to mention the food at Pak Ali's. If you like seafood, then this is the place to go. Every dinner we had the freshest seafood, straight out of the sea. There was delicious fish cooked in different styles, squid and cockles, and the last meal we had the biggest prawns I have ever seen. I was confused about whether they were prawns or lobsters as they were so big and so delicious.

One of the best things about Sawai is that the sea is clean and there is very little rubbish floating around. I went snorkelling a few times and the water was really clear. It's such a nice place just to sit and watch the villagers go about their daily lives.

I was quite sad when it was time to leave. I would like to say a big thank you to my hosts Sinda and Tilly from Spice Islands Tours and Travel for taking me there. If you want a nice relaxing destination, Sawai is the place to go.

The Brunei Times

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Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/classification/life/travel/2007/04/21/the_splendours_of_sawai

Batty friends in need of our protection - Brunei Times

Published on The Brunei Times (http://www.bt.com.bn/en)
Batty friends in need of our protection














Nightly pursuits: Bats, like the one on bottom, are mainly nocturnal, hunting for food at night. During the day, they hang upside down in their roosts. Among their preferred roosting places are caves, like the one on top, buildings and hollow trees. Pictures: Liz Price



Liz Price
KUALA LUMPUR

Friday, March 7, 2008

DID your mother ever warn you to be careful at night, to make sure a bat doesn't fly into your hair? Have you heard the expressions "bats in the belfry" or "blind as a bat"? Did you spend late nights terrified in front of the TV watching scary films where bats were rampant and attacking humans?

These are some of the misconstructions that we humans have about bats.

Bats are our friends. This is how we should consider those nocturnal mammals that fly in the dark. They are of great use to us humans, and we should be pleased to have them around.

Sadly bats have a bad reputation among the general public; all over the world they have a somewhat dubious status.

They suffer a bad press creatures of the darkness both literally and figuratively. This negativity has been around for hundreds of years. Bats so often appear in horror films as evil creatures of the night. Everybody knows the Dracula stories, in which blood-sucking vampires appear out of dark crypts in the old haunted castles of Transylvania.

Actually vampire bats do exist, but you will not find them in Asia. They live in central and South America, where they suck blood generally from horses and cattle. Like leeches, they do not harm their host. Their saliva contains an anticoagulant and the bats can feed while the host remains unaware of their presence.

Bats don't get tangled in ladies' hair, they don't bite the necks of humans, and they are not unclean. They are not vermin. Admittedly they can carry rabies, but as the general public normally never comes into contact with bats, this is not a problem rabid dogs and monkeys potentially present more of a danger.

Bats have many good points. They are very useful to us as they help to pollinate bananas, durian and petai, which flower at night. They also aid in seed dispersal and propagation of some rain forest plants.

Mangrove trees are pollinated by flying foxes. Bats help to control the insect population. They consume pests which would otherwise cause damage and spread disease.

In Deer Cave in Mulu National Park in Sarawak, an estimated one to two million bats live in the one cave. Every night they fly out to feed, each bat eats at least 10g of insects during a night of hunting, so this is at least 10 tonnes of insects consumed in a single night. Can you imagine 10 tonnes of mosquitoes? This results in a few tonnes of guano falling to the floor. Guano can be used as a fertiliser.

Medical researchers are now developing a drug which breaks down blood clots, which can be of great use to stroke victims and people suffering from thrombosis. The scientists are isolating a protein from the bat saliva which interferes with the process of blood clotting.

Village people across the world have used bats for their medicinal properties. A Malaysian folk cure for asthma and chest complaints uses roasted bat hearts mixed with coffee.

Some Cambodians believe that the fruit bat soup is a good cure for heart trouble and asthma. There is a profitable trade in these winged mammals. The head is cut off for traditional medicine, the blood is mixed with rich alcohol, and the meat is used to make rice soup.

In Maharashtra in India, bats are welcomed for their therapeutic powers. Stalls sell bottles of bat oil which is alleged to work wonders against rheumatism and arthritis. Made of bat's fat and a little amount of blood mixed with coconut oil and camphor, a small quantity of this ancient essence rubbed on the body is said to work wonders.

The bat god figured prominently in the mythology of many different cultures of Mexico more than 2,000 years ago. The bat, because of its association with the night and its silent flight, represented death.

Bats belong to the taxonomic order Chiroptera. Worldwide there are more than 900 species of bats. The US is known to have 40 species of bats, whereas England only has 15. In Malaysia there are about 100 species. There are two main types of bats, the insect feeders and the fruit bats.

Bats are the only mammals which can fly. Like many other mammals, they have fur, and give birth to live young. Individuals can live up to 20 years. Bats have been on Earth for about 50 million years.

There is a popular saying: "as blind as a bat." In fact bats are not blind. The fruit bats rely on their eyesight to navigate. Insect eating bats have very small eyes in comparison and navigate by echolocation.

Bats are mainly nocturnal and hang upside down in their roosts. They roost in buildings, caves, hollow trees, foliage, crevices in rocks, and in spaces under the bark of trees. Some make tents out of the leaves of plants, others roost in the hollow stems of bamboo, having entered the stems through holes made by wood-boring beetles. Many bats throughout the world roost in buildings and are often a considerable nuisance. Species that roost in caves, trees, or buildings often form huge colonies.

Flying foxes are the biggest bats, and sometimes can be seen hanging in trees where they roost, seemingly undisturbed by sunlight. Sadly their numbers are dwindling.

Their populations have been decimated by habitat destruction, colony eradication by fruit growers, over-harvesting for human consumption and unregulated hunting (for food and sport). Some species are becoming extinct and this could have adverse affects on the many bat-dependent plants and the ecosystems and economies they support.

Bats need protection. Increased awareness of the vital role that these bats play in the life cycle of commercially important plants is necessary. In some countries such as the UK and US, bats receive protection and there are heavy penalties for harming or even handling certain species. However, in Peninsula Malaysia, only flying foxes are partially protected under the Protection of Wildlife Act 1972, but even these can still be hunted for food, with a licence. In Sarawak, all bats are protected.

So remember that bats are actually our friends, and we need them in our ecosystem. They will not harm you, so please do not harm them. The Brunei Times


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Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/environment/2008/03/07/batty_friends_in_need_of_our_protection