ALL MALAYSIA
Asia in the raw
The first time I checked out the Wildasia website, I thought, “Darn! Whoever created this site beat me to it.” I’d always thought there wasn’t enough information on nature destinations and adventure travels in Asia.
Then, came Wildasia.
The simple homepage, presented in a clear style with nature shots, displays a hotchpotch of articles and facts clumped into different sections. You can browse the guides on natural areas in Malaysia, read travel, adventure and natural history articles, or find out about conservation projects around the region.
Dr Reza Azmi is a biologist who founded the Wildasia website to cater for his interest in nature and travel.
Or, if you’re planning a trip, look up the “travel centre” and get in touch with people who can dole out travel tips or get you in touch with locals in the area. If you’re in a time crunch, you can get a custom-tailored travel itinerary prepared by Wildasia.
Yet, the website is not profit-oriented, as founder Dr Reza Azmi, 34, explained.
“The idea is to get more people outdoors,” said Reza, a conservationist with a background in botany. “We try to get people tuned into the importance of natural areas to help protect and conserve the remaining natural habitats in Asia.”
Wildasia is a platform to share information and help facilitate exploration of these natural areas, he added. The long-term goal is to work closely with the tourism sector, and to develop more responsible tourism principles and practices. For example, the website will back tour operators who support conservation plans that protect the areas they work in.
The site’s history began in 1998. Reza, then based in Sabah, was working on an idea to support small and village-level tourism initiatives.
“At that time, nature tourism in the Kinabatangan area was picking up but the villagers were often left out,” said Reza. “It was a shame as they often made the best nature guides.”
Reza took the initiative to write his own guide to help tourists know more about the Kinabatangan and the villagers who could help visitors with lodging and boat trips. Such information allows tourists to do independent travel and not depend on tour operators, he said.
Setting up a website was a natural progression since it is a cheap platform to disseminate information, Reza said. The website, a prototype named wildborneo.net, generated interest worldwide. Reza began putting up information on other areas and this led to Wildasia.net in 2002.
In the beginning, Wildasia was a one-man show. In addition to his “real job” as a biologist working on research and conservation projects, Reza spent hours churning out articles for the website.
“I sleep, eat, think Wildasia, it’s a 24-hour thing,” confessed Reza who lives with his wife and two family pets in Kuala Lumpur. “But I’m very lucky as my job involves a great deal of travel. Wildasia is an extension of what I do. I use the travel directory before I go on work assignments.
Today, Wildasia holds one of the largest directories of people and organisations involved in conservation and nature/adventure travel.
Over the years, more than 50 of Reza’s friends and colleagues – a bunch of naturalists, biologists, conservationists and writers – have contributed articles, pictures and shared information through the site.
One of Wildasia’s contributors, Liz Price, a cave and karst specialist and freelance writer based in Kuala Lumpur, finds the site a good source of information on many off-the-beaten-track destinations.
“It’s a useful site for facts on nature and travel,” said Price who checks the site weekly or at least once a month. “When I get questions from overseas visitors, it’s good to refer them to the site.”
Tan Chin Tong, 47, an avid Wildasia reader checks out the site at least once a week.
“I enjoy reading the articles – they’re raw and unpolished, just what nature lovers love to read,” said Tan who is based in Ipoh.
“They’re unlike articles (in mass publications) with content beautifully constructed to whet readers’ appetite but full of disappointments when you make the trip.”
But Tan would like to see more articles on Peninsular Malaysia. “There are many hidden beauties known only to a few,” he added.
From design to content, Wildasia is a voluntary effort.
“The Tourism Malaysia award belongs to all the volunteers who helped build Wildasia to what it is today,” stressed Reza.
Though Wildasia receives more than 10,000 visits a day from readers worldwide, Reza is not satisfied. He constantly thinks of ways to improve the site and sees Wildasia’s development as an evolving process.
“But I hope to see more contributors from different parts of Asia getting involved. That would help us cover more natural areas and bring us closer towards our goal,” Reza summed up.
For now, it’s heartening to see our tourism authorities recognise a non-commercial effort on nature tourism writing in Malaysia.
Check out http://www.wildasia.net/
sign in a cave in Laos
23 August 2008
Perak Man’s bones tell his story - Star 2003
THE STAR
4 October 2003
also on ALL MALAYSIA
Perak Man’s bones tell his story
By Liz Price
PERAK Man, Peninsular Malaysia’s oldest inhabitant, is well travelled, despite his great age of 11,000 years old. A few years ago he went to Japan for an exhibition, and in November and December 2001, he visited Kuala Lumpur where he was the star in an exhibition entitled Perak Man.
Now he is having a well-deserved rest and is back in his native Perak, where he is residing in the new Lenggong Museum. He is, after all, one of the most important inhabitants to have lived in Malaysia, because his bones survive to tell the tale.
Perak Man, found in 1991, is the only complete human skeleton which has been found in Malaysia. The cave which was his final resting place is called Gua Gunung Runtuh and is situated in Bukit Kepala Gajah, or Elephant’s Head Hill, in the Lenggong Valley in Ulu Perak. The skeleton has been dated at between 10,000 and 11,000 years old, which makes him a Stone Age man, from the Palaeolithic period. The skeleton was found by Datuk Prof Zuraini Majid and her team from Universiti Sains Malaysia (USM).
It is believed Perak Man was an important member of his tribe, judging by the way he was buried, in a foetal position, and accompanied by stone tools. He was about 157cm tall and probably aged 40-50 when he died. He had an atrophied left hand and one finger was deformed. As well as the skeleton, remnants of tools and food such as shells and animal bones were found in the cave.
The first time I went up to the Lenggong area I visited Gua Gunung Runtuh. Although there was nothing to see except for the pits dug in the floor by the archaeological researchers, it was easy to get the imagination going, and to reflect on how Perak Man and his tribe had used that cave as a shelter.
The Lenggong valley is one of the Peninsula’s most important areas for archaeology, as excavations have revealed many traces of Malaysia’s pre-history. The town of Lenggong is situated some 100km north of Ipoh on the Kuala Kangsar-Grik road. It is the site of the oldest known place of human activity in the Peninsula. Today, it is still a rural area, with small kampungs surrounded by green vegetation and limestone hills.
Lenggong can be likened to an open-air museum, and is home to legends, skeletons, cave drawings and precious finds such as jewellery, pottery, weapons and stone tools. Gua Gunung Runtuh was probably used as a temporary camp when the people were out hunting, being well situated high up. In the same hill, other caves have yielded archaeological remains such as stone tools and food remnants, but no more skeletons. The caves were probably used as temporary shelters and seasonal camps, whereas Gua Gunung Runtuh was lived in for longer periods.
Kota Tampan is the site of a prehistoric stone tool workshop, and has been dated at about 74,000 years old. This makes it older than the archaeological remains which have been found at Niah Cave in Sarawak, where one human skull has been dated at about 40,000 years old. But all these findings are still very young compared to those from Africa, where the predecessors of the human species originated about three to five million years ago. When I first visited Kota Tampan archaeological site, it consisted of little more than a single shelter and a lone notice board, in the middle of oil palm plantations. Now there is the stylish Lenggong Archaeological Museum, also known as the Kota Tampan Archaeological Museum. The building site was chosen as it displays the reconstruction of the Kota Tampan excavation site and it is ideal to locate a museum.
The museum exhibits artifacts excavated from the Kota Tampan area. They are housed in a large bright building and are divided into three categories covering the Kota Tampan Excavation Site Gallery, Lenggong Pre-Historic Gallery and the Human Civilisation Gallery.
The Lenggong Valley has several sites of archaeological importance, such as Bukit Jawa at Kg Geluk, and Kg Temelong where stone tools dating back 100,000 years were found. The nearby Bukit Bunuh finds are more recent at 50,000 years! But the most fascinating and unique artifact is the 11,000-year old Perak Man skeleton. I am not sure if the real skeleton is on display or if it is a replica.
Various other caves in the vicinity were dug by the researchers who found artifacts from the Bronze Neolithic Age at Gua Harimau, and stone tools from the Upper Palaeolithic age at Gua Telok Kelawar and Ngaum caves. Other items on display relate to the history of human evolution and civilisation, dating from the Homo habilis to the modern Homo sapiens.
This year a USM archaeology team led by Dr Mohd Mokhtar Saidin worked on an open site in Bukit Bunuh, about one kilometre away from the museum. The findings were unusual as they included chert stones, which are normally associated with volcanoes. So at some time in the past there must have been a volcanic eruption in this area. This is interesting news and the researchers are still looking into it.
The Museum opened its doors to the public earlier this year, and cost some RM3mil to set up. The Sultan of Perak, Sultan Azlan Shah, officially opened it in July. He paid special tribute to USM, particularly to Prof Zuraina and the Museum and Antiquity Department, for their untiring efforts.
The only unfortunate factor about the location of the museum is that it is “off the beaten track” and won’t attract many casual visitors. At Tasek Raban, 3km from Kota Tampan where the museum is sited, a cluster of chalets costing RM2.2mil, are being built. This is a popular spot for fishing and water sports.
The Lenggong Archaeological Museum
Kota Tampan, Lenggong, Perak
Location: The Museum is about 70km from the Jalan Butterworth/ Ipoh intersection, along the Kuala Kangsar to Grik road.
It is open daily from 9am to 5pm; Fridays from 9am to 12.15pm, 2.45pm to 5pm. Closed on Hari Raya. Admission is free.
Originally published in The Star on
4 October 2003
also on ALL MALAYSIA
Perak Man’s bones tell his story
By Liz Price
PERAK Man, Peninsular Malaysia’s oldest inhabitant, is well travelled, despite his great age of 11,000 years old. A few years ago he went to Japan for an exhibition, and in November and December 2001, he visited Kuala Lumpur where he was the star in an exhibition entitled Perak Man.
Now he is having a well-deserved rest and is back in his native Perak, where he is residing in the new Lenggong Museum. He is, after all, one of the most important inhabitants to have lived in Malaysia, because his bones survive to tell the tale.
Perak Man, found in 1991, is the only complete human skeleton which has been found in Malaysia. The cave which was his final resting place is called Gua Gunung Runtuh and is situated in Bukit Kepala Gajah, or Elephant’s Head Hill, in the Lenggong Valley in Ulu Perak. The skeleton has been dated at between 10,000 and 11,000 years old, which makes him a Stone Age man, from the Palaeolithic period. The skeleton was found by Datuk Prof Zuraini Majid and her team from Universiti Sains Malaysia (USM).
It is believed Perak Man was an important member of his tribe, judging by the way he was buried, in a foetal position, and accompanied by stone tools. He was about 157cm tall and probably aged 40-50 when he died. He had an atrophied left hand and one finger was deformed. As well as the skeleton, remnants of tools and food such as shells and animal bones were found in the cave.
The first time I went up to the Lenggong area I visited Gua Gunung Runtuh. Although there was nothing to see except for the pits dug in the floor by the archaeological researchers, it was easy to get the imagination going, and to reflect on how Perak Man and his tribe had used that cave as a shelter.
The Lenggong valley is one of the Peninsula’s most important areas for archaeology, as excavations have revealed many traces of Malaysia’s pre-history. The town of Lenggong is situated some 100km north of Ipoh on the Kuala Kangsar-Grik road. It is the site of the oldest known place of human activity in the Peninsula. Today, it is still a rural area, with small kampungs surrounded by green vegetation and limestone hills.
Lenggong can be likened to an open-air museum, and is home to legends, skeletons, cave drawings and precious finds such as jewellery, pottery, weapons and stone tools. Gua Gunung Runtuh was probably used as a temporary camp when the people were out hunting, being well situated high up. In the same hill, other caves have yielded archaeological remains such as stone tools and food remnants, but no more skeletons. The caves were probably used as temporary shelters and seasonal camps, whereas Gua Gunung Runtuh was lived in for longer periods.
Kota Tampan is the site of a prehistoric stone tool workshop, and has been dated at about 74,000 years old. This makes it older than the archaeological remains which have been found at Niah Cave in Sarawak, where one human skull has been dated at about 40,000 years old. But all these findings are still very young compared to those from Africa, where the predecessors of the human species originated about three to five million years ago. When I first visited Kota Tampan archaeological site, it consisted of little more than a single shelter and a lone notice board, in the middle of oil palm plantations. Now there is the stylish Lenggong Archaeological Museum, also known as the Kota Tampan Archaeological Museum. The building site was chosen as it displays the reconstruction of the Kota Tampan excavation site and it is ideal to locate a museum.
The museum exhibits artifacts excavated from the Kota Tampan area. They are housed in a large bright building and are divided into three categories covering the Kota Tampan Excavation Site Gallery, Lenggong Pre-Historic Gallery and the Human Civilisation Gallery.
The Lenggong Valley has several sites of archaeological importance, such as Bukit Jawa at Kg Geluk, and Kg Temelong where stone tools dating back 100,000 years were found. The nearby Bukit Bunuh finds are more recent at 50,000 years! But the most fascinating and unique artifact is the 11,000-year old Perak Man skeleton. I am not sure if the real skeleton is on display or if it is a replica.
Various other caves in the vicinity were dug by the researchers who found artifacts from the Bronze Neolithic Age at Gua Harimau, and stone tools from the Upper Palaeolithic age at Gua Telok Kelawar and Ngaum caves. Other items on display relate to the history of human evolution and civilisation, dating from the Homo habilis to the modern Homo sapiens.
This year a USM archaeology team led by Dr Mohd Mokhtar Saidin worked on an open site in Bukit Bunuh, about one kilometre away from the museum. The findings were unusual as they included chert stones, which are normally associated with volcanoes. So at some time in the past there must have been a volcanic eruption in this area. This is interesting news and the researchers are still looking into it.
The Museum opened its doors to the public earlier this year, and cost some RM3mil to set up. The Sultan of Perak, Sultan Azlan Shah, officially opened it in July. He paid special tribute to USM, particularly to Prof Zuraina and the Museum and Antiquity Department, for their untiring efforts.
The only unfortunate factor about the location of the museum is that it is “off the beaten track” and won’t attract many casual visitors. At Tasek Raban, 3km from Kota Tampan where the museum is sited, a cluster of chalets costing RM2.2mil, are being built. This is a popular spot for fishing and water sports.
The Lenggong Archaeological Museum
Kota Tampan, Lenggong, Perak
Location: The Museum is about 70km from the Jalan Butterworth/ Ipoh intersection, along the Kuala Kangsar to Grik road.
It is open daily from 9am to 5pm; Fridays from 9am to 12.15pm, 2.45pm to 5pm. Closed on Hari Raya. Admission is free.
Originally published in The Star on
Krabi cleaned up - Star
THE STAR Weekend
Saturday August 23, 2008
Krabi, cleaned up
By LIZ PRICE
A look at how Krabi has changed since the tsunami.
I recently went to Krabi for the first time since the tsunami and was amazed at the number of tourists there. It was packed and there was a surprising number of European children. I guess a lot of parents are taking winter breaks.
Krabi, just south of Phuket, has long been a popular tourist destination for its beaches and islands. The beaches include Ao Nang and those on the Railey peninsula, while the islands of Ko Phi Phi, Ko Lanta are all accessible from Krabi.
Whilst Ko Phi Phi and parts of Phuket were devastated by the December 2004 tsunami, Krabi didn’t suffer as badly. I was interested to see how things had changed since the tsunami.
Krabi airport opened about seven years ago and now handles international as well as domestic flights. This, of course, has led to a huge increase in the number of tourists visiting the area.
From the airport, tourists have a choice of taxi or shuttle bus to Krabi town, or Ao Nang beach.
I chose to stay in town, as accommodation is cheaper than at the beach, and it’s easier to get local food. I found hotel rates in the town have not increased much since the tsunami. There are several new guesthouses catering for backpackers, several of which offer WiFi access.
In town, I noticed a few of the old guesthouses and shops have been replaced by Internet cafés, or more modern coffee shops, hand phone shops etc. A large new wat, or Buddhist temple, is being constructed on the hill at the back of town, accessible by a wide flight of steps.
An ape statue holding up the traffic lights at Manus Borarn Square. — LIZ PRICE
The main crossroads in town is now called Manus Borarn Square, and there are large ape statues holding traffic lights at each of the four roads.
The statues are to commemorate the archaeological findings made in the Krabi district. These include 43,000-year-old human skeletons unearthed from under a cliff at the Tab-prik School in Krabi. Also 27,000-year-old human skeletons were found at Mor Keaw Cave, at Ban Na-Ching in Krabi.
The oldest finds are fossils dating back to 37 million years, found in a lignite mine. They are jaw bones of an ancient primate, later named Siamopithecus eocaenus, (the signboard says Siam Moipithecus erectus, which is wrong), which could be an ancestor of humans.
Down by the river is a large stone eagle, similar to the one on Langkawi, but smaller. The signage says it is a White-breasted Sea Eagle, Nok Awk, and goes on to describe the bird. At the waterfront, one boatman said that business was very bad, as most tourists preferred to stay at the beach.
Ao Nang was busy with people. The beach road hadn’t changed much since the tsunami and I recognised many of the shops from my last visit in 2002. But now there were more Western fast food places, coffee shops and small shopping centres opening up. And of course, new guest houses and luxury resorts.
One new luxury resort occupied the entire bay south of the main beach, and is reached by a boardwalk. With room rates starting at 6,000 baht (RM590), it is not cheap.
Despite the increase in the number of buildings and people, things seemed orderly. Thailand realises tourism makes up a huge part of the country’s income. Therefore, they take steps to encourage tourists.
The main thing that struck me along the main beach was the number of ATM machines, located every few hundred metres. The authorities have realised that tourists spend money and need easy access to cash. And so they have set up ATMs everywhere, all of which take foreign credit cards.
One big change is that the boats to the islands and beaches are now all strictly controlled. The longtail boats are all moored together in one area, which ensures the safety of people swimming in the other areas.
And there are two ticket offices, at each end of the beach. Gone are the days of the boatmen and their touts all shouting and jostling to compete for your custom. Now the prices are prominently displayed. Along the beach, there are numerous tsunami warning signs.
These tell you to go to high ground or inland in the event of an earthquake. And the signs point which way to go.
I also counted around 20 massage stalls on the beach, with prices prominently displayed. At a mere 200 baht (RM20) an hour, the stalls were fully occupied.
There were also signs asking smokers not to throw their cigarette butts into the sea — “The beach and ocean are not an ashtray”.
So many people treat the sea as a rubbish bin and this is particularly unpleasant for swimmers. And cigarette butts take years to break down. All the beaches were very clean. Having litter bins placed in many spots helped.
Restaurant prices at the beach have increased since I was last there. In Krabi town, you can still get a delicious meal, with free cold water, all for a mere 30 baht (RM3).
About 40% of Krabi’s population is Muslim so there are halal eating places, including roti shops. The rotis are always smaller in Thailand than in Malaysia, but the curry is delicious. One shop proudly announces that tourists are charged the same price as Thais.
The authorities certainly seem to be doing their bit to keep the place clean and safe, and to make sure things run smoothly. Obviously, the ever increasing numbers of visitors will have an impact. Hopefully, this won’t spoil the tropical paradise that they have come to see.
Saturday August 23, 2008
Krabi, cleaned up
By LIZ PRICE
A look at how Krabi has changed since the tsunami.
I recently went to Krabi for the first time since the tsunami and was amazed at the number of tourists there. It was packed and there was a surprising number of European children. I guess a lot of parents are taking winter breaks.
Krabi, just south of Phuket, has long been a popular tourist destination for its beaches and islands. The beaches include Ao Nang and those on the Railey peninsula, while the islands of Ko Phi Phi, Ko Lanta are all accessible from Krabi.
Whilst Ko Phi Phi and parts of Phuket were devastated by the December 2004 tsunami, Krabi didn’t suffer as badly. I was interested to see how things had changed since the tsunami.
Krabi airport opened about seven years ago and now handles international as well as domestic flights. This, of course, has led to a huge increase in the number of tourists visiting the area.
From the airport, tourists have a choice of taxi or shuttle bus to Krabi town, or Ao Nang beach.
I chose to stay in town, as accommodation is cheaper than at the beach, and it’s easier to get local food. I found hotel rates in the town have not increased much since the tsunami. There are several new guesthouses catering for backpackers, several of which offer WiFi access.
In town, I noticed a few of the old guesthouses and shops have been replaced by Internet cafés, or more modern coffee shops, hand phone shops etc. A large new wat, or Buddhist temple, is being constructed on the hill at the back of town, accessible by a wide flight of steps.
An ape statue holding up the traffic lights at Manus Borarn Square. — LIZ PRICE
The main crossroads in town is now called Manus Borarn Square, and there are large ape statues holding traffic lights at each of the four roads.
The statues are to commemorate the archaeological findings made in the Krabi district. These include 43,000-year-old human skeletons unearthed from under a cliff at the Tab-prik School in Krabi. Also 27,000-year-old human skeletons were found at Mor Keaw Cave, at Ban Na-Ching in Krabi.
The oldest finds are fossils dating back to 37 million years, found in a lignite mine. They are jaw bones of an ancient primate, later named Siamopithecus eocaenus, (the signboard says Siam Moipithecus erectus, which is wrong), which could be an ancestor of humans.
Down by the river is a large stone eagle, similar to the one on Langkawi, but smaller. The signage says it is a White-breasted Sea Eagle, Nok Awk, and goes on to describe the bird. At the waterfront, one boatman said that business was very bad, as most tourists preferred to stay at the beach.
Ao Nang was busy with people. The beach road hadn’t changed much since the tsunami and I recognised many of the shops from my last visit in 2002. But now there were more Western fast food places, coffee shops and small shopping centres opening up. And of course, new guest houses and luxury resorts.
One new luxury resort occupied the entire bay south of the main beach, and is reached by a boardwalk. With room rates starting at 6,000 baht (RM590), it is not cheap.
Despite the increase in the number of buildings and people, things seemed orderly. Thailand realises tourism makes up a huge part of the country’s income. Therefore, they take steps to encourage tourists.
The main thing that struck me along the main beach was the number of ATM machines, located every few hundred metres. The authorities have realised that tourists spend money and need easy access to cash. And so they have set up ATMs everywhere, all of which take foreign credit cards.
One big change is that the boats to the islands and beaches are now all strictly controlled. The longtail boats are all moored together in one area, which ensures the safety of people swimming in the other areas.
And there are two ticket offices, at each end of the beach. Gone are the days of the boatmen and their touts all shouting and jostling to compete for your custom. Now the prices are prominently displayed. Along the beach, there are numerous tsunami warning signs.
These tell you to go to high ground or inland in the event of an earthquake. And the signs point which way to go.
I also counted around 20 massage stalls on the beach, with prices prominently displayed. At a mere 200 baht (RM20) an hour, the stalls were fully occupied.
There were also signs asking smokers not to throw their cigarette butts into the sea — “The beach and ocean are not an ashtray”.
So many people treat the sea as a rubbish bin and this is particularly unpleasant for swimmers. And cigarette butts take years to break down. All the beaches were very clean. Having litter bins placed in many spots helped.
Restaurant prices at the beach have increased since I was last there. In Krabi town, you can still get a delicious meal, with free cold water, all for a mere 30 baht (RM3).
About 40% of Krabi’s population is Muslim so there are halal eating places, including roti shops. The rotis are always smaller in Thailand than in Malaysia, but the curry is delicious. One shop proudly announces that tourists are charged the same price as Thais.
The authorities certainly seem to be doing their bit to keep the place clean and safe, and to make sure things run smoothly. Obviously, the ever increasing numbers of visitors will have an impact. Hopefully, this won’t spoil the tropical paradise that they have come to see.
22 August 2008
Exploring Batman’s domain - caver Liz - Star
The Star Online > News >
Sunday November 2, 2003
Exploring Batman’s domain
DARK and dank – home of bats, poisonous bats and snakes. Who in their right mind would want to explore caves?
For freelance writer and fulltime caver Liz Price, from Britain, caves are utterly intriguing.
“There is a lot to see and appreciate. Every cave is different too, and each is interesting in its own way,” she says.
CAVE DWELLERS: Thousands of bats live in Gua Wang Burma.
Price finds the fauna especially fascinating. “Anyone will find it interesting to see the animals in their element. For example, you can see the bats’ habitat and how they adapt to the conditions,” she shares.
Other interesting facets of caving are the geological wonders, such as underground rivers and limestone formations. Price’s favourite place for caving in Peninsular Malaysia is the Perlis State Park.
“I have been there about 14 times and there are so many caves to explore,” says Price who has also been on expeditions to restricted caves.
The most popular cave in Perlis is Gua Wang Burma, with its exciting formation of narrow passages and muddy tunnels – you need to crawl or squeeze your way through to reach the amazing water-worn rock formations.
Known for its streams and exotic species of insects and fungi, the cave system is divided into two main caves: Wang Burma Satu with its unique rock formations, and Wang Burma Dua, which is physically and mentally challenging with its dark hooks and turns.
Price who has been caving for 10 years, since she was a student, advises those who are interested to go with experienced cavers.
“You don’t really need specialised equipment, except for good lighting. Be prepared with spare batteries and bulbs because the caves are really dark.
“For caving gear, you don’t really need anything special, except for a helmet with a headlight. So, try to wear old clothes as you have to do a lot of walking, crawling and climbing,” she says.
Caving is still not a popular sport in Malaysia.
“In Europe it is a big sport; maybe because it is very challenging. Unlike tropical caves, it is narrower, cold and slippery in the West. Tropical caves are bigger and easier to walk in. They are also very beautiful with interesting creatures, so it is really a shame that not many people know about them,” says Price.
Those interested in caving can call the Malaysian Nature Soceity at 03 22879422 or e-mail : natsoc@tm.net.my
Sunday November 2, 2003
Exploring Batman’s domain
DARK and dank – home of bats, poisonous bats and snakes. Who in their right mind would want to explore caves?
For freelance writer and fulltime caver Liz Price, from Britain, caves are utterly intriguing.
“There is a lot to see and appreciate. Every cave is different too, and each is interesting in its own way,” she says.
CAVE DWELLERS: Thousands of bats live in Gua Wang Burma.
Price finds the fauna especially fascinating. “Anyone will find it interesting to see the animals in their element. For example, you can see the bats’ habitat and how they adapt to the conditions,” she shares.
Other interesting facets of caving are the geological wonders, such as underground rivers and limestone formations. Price’s favourite place for caving in Peninsular Malaysia is the Perlis State Park.
“I have been there about 14 times and there are so many caves to explore,” says Price who has also been on expeditions to restricted caves.
The most popular cave in Perlis is Gua Wang Burma, with its exciting formation of narrow passages and muddy tunnels – you need to crawl or squeeze your way through to reach the amazing water-worn rock formations.
Known for its streams and exotic species of insects and fungi, the cave system is divided into two main caves: Wang Burma Satu with its unique rock formations, and Wang Burma Dua, which is physically and mentally challenging with its dark hooks and turns.
Price who has been caving for 10 years, since she was a student, advises those who are interested to go with experienced cavers.
“You don’t really need specialised equipment, except for good lighting. Be prepared with spare batteries and bulbs because the caves are really dark.
“For caving gear, you don’t really need anything special, except for a helmet with a headlight. So, try to wear old clothes as you have to do a lot of walking, crawling and climbing,” she says.
Caving is still not a popular sport in Malaysia.
“In Europe it is a big sport; maybe because it is very challenging. Unlike tropical caves, it is narrower, cold and slippery in the West. Tropical caves are bigger and easier to walk in. They are also very beautiful with interesting creatures, so it is really a shame that not many people know about them,” says Price.
Those interested in caving can call the Malaysian Nature Soceity at 03 22879422 or e-mail : natsoc@tm.net.my
Cavin in on Ebay, cave postcards - Star
THE STAR
L I F E S T Y L E
Living
Saturday January 20, 2007
Caving in
By YAP MIOW SEN
Can you believe that someone, somewhere in the world would avidly collect postcards of Malaysian caves, and that a postcard of Batu Caves taken in 1910 can fetch RM70?
Liz Price (pic), an avid speleologist (caving enthusiast), gets onto eBay once a week to trawl for such items.
“Caving is my passion. I’ve been collecting postcards of caves in Malaysia and actually found a few on eBay UK. I also collect postcards on tin mining as well as colonial Malaya,” says Liz, who resides in Kuala Lumpur.
Not only does Liz buy postcards on eBay, she sells them as well.
“I actually managed to sell a few postcards which I got free on board a flight. They sold for RM6-RM7 each.
“It’s amazing seeing what people will sell and buy online,” she says with a giggle.
“I saw a documentary once on a guy who picked up a discarded fishing boat rope on a beach and put it for sale as a joke. He actually managed to sell it! Most of the time, I sell more than I buy. It’s a convenient way to ‘recycle’ all my unwanted stuff.
“Some of the things I’ve sold so far are caving books, a watch, souvenirs from a Concorde flight, books from my childhood, an electric organ and a 1950s’ cocktail dress of my mum’s.”
“I haven’t made much money from my sales but then I’m not doing it as a business. The fun of being able to sell all the things I don’t need in my life anymore is a great feeling.”
L I F E S T Y L E
Living
Saturday January 20, 2007
Caving in
By YAP MIOW SEN
Can you believe that someone, somewhere in the world would avidly collect postcards of Malaysian caves, and that a postcard of Batu Caves taken in 1910 can fetch RM70?
Liz Price (pic), an avid speleologist (caving enthusiast), gets onto eBay once a week to trawl for such items.
“Caving is my passion. I’ve been collecting postcards of caves in Malaysia and actually found a few on eBay UK. I also collect postcards on tin mining as well as colonial Malaya,” says Liz, who resides in Kuala Lumpur.
Not only does Liz buy postcards on eBay, she sells them as well.
“I actually managed to sell a few postcards which I got free on board a flight. They sold for RM6-RM7 each.
“It’s amazing seeing what people will sell and buy online,” she says with a giggle.
“I saw a documentary once on a guy who picked up a discarded fishing boat rope on a beach and put it for sale as a joke. He actually managed to sell it! Most of the time, I sell more than I buy. It’s a convenient way to ‘recycle’ all my unwanted stuff.
“Some of the things I’ve sold so far are caving books, a watch, souvenirs from a Concorde flight, books from my childhood, an electric organ and a 1950s’ cocktail dress of my mum’s.”
“I haven’t made much money from my sales but then I’m not doing it as a business. The fun of being able to sell all the things I don’t need in my life anymore is a great feeling.”
Living Caves (Nature Watch 1997)
Caving enthusiast Liz Price sheds light on
L i v i n g C a v e s
______________________________________________________________
Some of the most spectacular and 'youngest' caves in the world
are in Sarawak and they are a mere 10 to 20 million years old.
And these caves are not only `alive' but still growing!
______________________________________________________________
Caves are made of solid rock and yet some caves are still alive and still forming!
In caves the world over, and in the caves that riddle the hills and mountains of Peninsular and East Malaysia (notably Sarawak), stalagmites and stalactites and other sculptural cave wonders are continuously being formed and exquisitely shaped by a common yet wonderous life-giving substance. It is none other than water -- the
substance that, like air, gives us life.
Yes, as long as there is water present in a cave, the cave will continue to develop.
Just reflect on this. Caves are millions of years old and yet they are alive and still growing!
Think too, that while Man has landed on the moon and prepares to explore Mars, there are still many caves left on Mother Earth that have yet to be discovered and explored. And in case you think that a cave is just a space in the side of a hill, know that it is far more than that. Mother Nature has carved out some marvellously intricate cave systems and some of these meander hundreds of kilometres deep
into the mountains. What has been discovered so far has merely scratched the surface of this Planet.
The longest known cave in the world is Mammoth Cave in the USA. It is 560 km long. Clearwater Cave in Mulu, Sarawak, is the longest known cave in Asia. At 107 m, it is the 10th longest in the world.
And what marvels lie in these cave systems! Over thousands of years, Mother Nature, using that wondrous element water, has hollowed out huge chambers and passages and gouged out river-beds. She has also built up and shaped the stalactites that hang like chandeliers from the 'ceilings' and stalagmites that grow up from the cave floor. Some caves support colonies of animal life, few of which are known in the sunlit environment outside the caves.
One can trace the origins of caves to the life that began at the bottom of the sea.
Over million of years, as shells, corals and sand were deposited on the sea bed, they formed what we know as limestone. Layer by layer the limestone was built up and compacted. Then, when Earth underwent a period of orogeny or uplifting, these layers of limestone became hills and mountains which rose above the sea.
These mountain ranges, though formed of a hard substance (limestone) are easily corroded by natural acids. These acids are produced when falling rain picks up carbon dioxide from the air. Then, as the rain water percolates through the soil, it absorbs more carbon dioxide. When this acidic water comes into contact with the
limestone it begins to attack it and, finding small holes, seeps down through the rock, gradually enlarging cracks.
Over the years -- and here we mean thousands and millions of years -- the cracks became passages winding through the mountains.
Do you know, too, that while water mixed with carbon dioxide becomes corrosive, eating up the limestone, at the same time the water is taking in calcium carbonate (from the limestone), and when exposed to air this saturated water becomes a building substance?
The calcium-enriched water forms deposits which, over time, build up into beautiful stal, that is, stalactites and stalagmites. On average, a stal grows about 1 cm in 60 years and encountering stals 10 or 20 cm high (or more) is common in Malaysia's caves, so one can easily believe geologists who estimate the age of the limestone caves in Peninsular Malaysia to be between 60 to 100 million years old.
But while this makes the caves ancient, the actual limestone rock is estimated to be much older, about 345 and 440 million years old, and this estimate is based on the fossils that have been found in the Carboniferous-Silurian rock.
It seems odd then to learn that the rock, and therefore the caves of East Malaysia (i.e. Mulu and Niah), are relatively much younger than the caves and rock of the Malaysian mainland. Niah rock is lower Miocene and is therefore about 20 million years old. Mulu, with its large cave system, is only about 10 million years old. And though the caves of Peninsular Malaysia are much older, the longest known cave there is only 3.4 km long. It is in Perlis.
Caving in this part of the world is made more exciting by the knowledge that Mulu holds the record for the world's largest underground chamber. This is the Sarawak chamber in Gua Nasib. It is roughly 600 m long and 400 m wide which makes it large enough to house eight Jumbo jets nose to tail, with room for another 32 jets at the
side. Or, put another way, the Sarawak chamber can fit in 20 international size football pitches.
Nor is Mulu merely spectacular. It holds a mystery to marvel at and mull over for, according to engineers, the Sarawak chambers should not exist because the rock, by their reckoning, is not strong enough to support such an enormous roof span!
What this means is that Man -- even with the latest state of the art technology -- cannot build the 10 million year-old Sarawak chamber. Only Mother Nature in her infinite wisdom has.
Further more, Mulu holds yet another spelacological record. It has the biggest cave passage. This is in the Deer Cave and this passage is 1.2 km long and averages over 100 m high. And in some parts it widens to over 160 m.
C A V E A R T A N D A R T I F A C T S :
K E Y S T O M A N ' S P R E H I S T O R I C P A S T
The more accessible caves in the world today are `show caves', open to the public. But prehistoric man (caveman) used caves as their homes, sturdy natural shelters from the weather, and also from wild animals. Traces of human remains in caves -- their tools, their artifacts and their art, carved or painted on rock -- give rich clues as to the lives they led in those nomadic times.
It is impossible to give irrefutable evidence of man's earliest use of caves for even so-called experts only dare venture dates that can have as much as a 30 million year variance ("the Peninsular Malaysia caves were themselves formed about 60-100 million years ago"), but what is for certain is that many tribal cultures, the world over, used caves first as shelters and later as temples for worship and meditation and even as burial sites. Then, in times of war, persecution or inter-tribal conflict, caves were used as hideouts.
Those who have never ventured into caves other than `show caves', probably have the impression that most caves are pitch-dark, damp, dank and smelly places, rife with bats, poisonous snakes, scorpions and other `creepy crawlies'.
Some of this is true but at the same time caves are beautiful and peaceful places and home to some incredible creatures. Venture beyond the entrance of a deep cave and you enter into a nocturnal world of infinite variety that is fascinatingly different from the world outside.
However, there are some distinct differences between caves in temperate climates and caves in the tropics. Tropical caves are generally bigger, above ground and therefore less vertical, warmer and with much more fauna.
C A V E I N H A B I T A N T S A R E U N I Q U E . . .
B U T A L L D E P E N D O N T H E B A T
Temperate or non-tropical, caves are well and truly dark which is why glow worm caves like those in New Zealand, are particularly enchanting. There is no sunlight in the cave and therefore no plants as plants needs sunlight to photosynthesise. These make cave inhabitants quite unique and they are divided into two types. One is
the `trogloxenes' and the other the `troglobite'.
Trogloxenes use the caves as temporary shelters (cave men being one of these), but they can also live outside. Troglobites spend their whole life in the cave and every troglobites is dependent on the cave dwelling bats for their very survival.
Bats and swiftlets are the only cave dwelling animals that go out to feed; and it is the bat's excreta or guano which supports the entire cave dwelling food chain.
The bats live suspended from the roofs of the caves and their guano falls onto the cave floor, forming rich food for insects like beetles, mites, worms, cockroaches etc. These insects are in turn fed upon by spiders, crickets, centipedes, pseudo-scorpions and the like. And these creatures are then hunted and eaten by frogs and toads.
Snakes also live in caves and the non-poisonous Cave Racer, Elaphe taeniura, is the only snake that has adapted to cave life and it feeds on bats, thereby completing the food chain. Bats are also useful to the life outside the cave. Bats pollinate the durian and petai trees, as well as other fruit trees. The bat guano is a rich fertiliser but the practice of collecting it should be discouraged as it disturbs the delicate ecosystem in the caves.
Small mammals such as rodents can also be found in caves, also porcupines and occasionally elephants will visit a cave entrance, presumably to lick the salts there. But the main cave life is made up of invertebrates.
In Dark Cave (Batu Caves, outside Kuala Lumpur), 170 species of invertebrates have been found. This includes one of the world's rarest spiders, the Trapdoor Spider, Liphistius batuensis, aptly named after the Batu Caves. It is thought that this species is unique to Dark Cave as it has not been found anywhere else in the
world. At least not yet.
C A V E S A R E F R A G I L E A N D
N E E D P R O T E C T I O N
As with everything else in the natural world, caves have provided man with shelter and refuge but despite their solid rock appearance, caves and the cave environment are fragile and man can and has destroyed the world of millions of years in mere seconds. Many caves have been destroyed through quarrying for the limestone which is used in the construction industry.
All caves need to be protected; this goes not just for the caves that are alive and still forming but even those that appear to be dry and 'dead'.
While one would like people to appreciate the special atmosphere of caves and their particular beauty, caves need to be protected from tourist hordes. The fantastic formations, underground streams and myriad animal life can be harmed, polluted and damaged by the unwary human visitor. For instance I have seen ignorant people break off a stal to take home as a sourvenir, only to find when they get outside the cave that what had appeared ethereal and beautiful turns out to be
only an "uninteresting" lump of rock. So it is important not to break off or even to touch the formations, bearing in mind how many thousands of years each has taken to grow.
The other human activities that are even more immediately threatening are the taking of guano for fertiliser and, even worse, the rapacious removal of swiflets' nests on a commercial scale for soups and medicines. This takes place mostly in Sabah and Sarawak and the harvesting of the nests hurts not only the birds but the caves.
Caves must be appreciated as an unique part of the natural environment, in any part of the world. Caves are also one of the last few places left "to go where no man has been before" as there are many caves waiting to be discovered. And who knows what rich secrets their discovery will yield?
--
Nature Watch, January-March 1997. [Singpaore]
L i v i n g C a v e s
______________________________________________________________
Some of the most spectacular and 'youngest' caves in the world
are in Sarawak and they are a mere 10 to 20 million years old.
And these caves are not only `alive' but still growing!
______________________________________________________________
Caves are made of solid rock and yet some caves are still alive and still forming!
In caves the world over, and in the caves that riddle the hills and mountains of Peninsular and East Malaysia (notably Sarawak), stalagmites and stalactites and other sculptural cave wonders are continuously being formed and exquisitely shaped by a common yet wonderous life-giving substance. It is none other than water -- the
substance that, like air, gives us life.
Yes, as long as there is water present in a cave, the cave will continue to develop.
Just reflect on this. Caves are millions of years old and yet they are alive and still growing!
Think too, that while Man has landed on the moon and prepares to explore Mars, there are still many caves left on Mother Earth that have yet to be discovered and explored. And in case you think that a cave is just a space in the side of a hill, know that it is far more than that. Mother Nature has carved out some marvellously intricate cave systems and some of these meander hundreds of kilometres deep
into the mountains. What has been discovered so far has merely scratched the surface of this Planet.
The longest known cave in the world is Mammoth Cave in the USA. It is 560 km long. Clearwater Cave in Mulu, Sarawak, is the longest known cave in Asia. At 107 m, it is the 10th longest in the world.
And what marvels lie in these cave systems! Over thousands of years, Mother Nature, using that wondrous element water, has hollowed out huge chambers and passages and gouged out river-beds. She has also built up and shaped the stalactites that hang like chandeliers from the 'ceilings' and stalagmites that grow up from the cave floor. Some caves support colonies of animal life, few of which are known in the sunlit environment outside the caves.
One can trace the origins of caves to the life that began at the bottom of the sea.
Over million of years, as shells, corals and sand were deposited on the sea bed, they formed what we know as limestone. Layer by layer the limestone was built up and compacted. Then, when Earth underwent a period of orogeny or uplifting, these layers of limestone became hills and mountains which rose above the sea.
These mountain ranges, though formed of a hard substance (limestone) are easily corroded by natural acids. These acids are produced when falling rain picks up carbon dioxide from the air. Then, as the rain water percolates through the soil, it absorbs more carbon dioxide. When this acidic water comes into contact with the
limestone it begins to attack it and, finding small holes, seeps down through the rock, gradually enlarging cracks.
Over the years -- and here we mean thousands and millions of years -- the cracks became passages winding through the mountains.
Do you know, too, that while water mixed with carbon dioxide becomes corrosive, eating up the limestone, at the same time the water is taking in calcium carbonate (from the limestone), and when exposed to air this saturated water becomes a building substance?
The calcium-enriched water forms deposits which, over time, build up into beautiful stal, that is, stalactites and stalagmites. On average, a stal grows about 1 cm in 60 years and encountering stals 10 or 20 cm high (or more) is common in Malaysia's caves, so one can easily believe geologists who estimate the age of the limestone caves in Peninsular Malaysia to be between 60 to 100 million years old.
But while this makes the caves ancient, the actual limestone rock is estimated to be much older, about 345 and 440 million years old, and this estimate is based on the fossils that have been found in the Carboniferous-Silurian rock.
It seems odd then to learn that the rock, and therefore the caves of East Malaysia (i.e. Mulu and Niah), are relatively much younger than the caves and rock of the Malaysian mainland. Niah rock is lower Miocene and is therefore about 20 million years old. Mulu, with its large cave system, is only about 10 million years old. And though the caves of Peninsular Malaysia are much older, the longest known cave there is only 3.4 km long. It is in Perlis.
Caving in this part of the world is made more exciting by the knowledge that Mulu holds the record for the world's largest underground chamber. This is the Sarawak chamber in Gua Nasib. It is roughly 600 m long and 400 m wide which makes it large enough to house eight Jumbo jets nose to tail, with room for another 32 jets at the
side. Or, put another way, the Sarawak chamber can fit in 20 international size football pitches.
Nor is Mulu merely spectacular. It holds a mystery to marvel at and mull over for, according to engineers, the Sarawak chambers should not exist because the rock, by their reckoning, is not strong enough to support such an enormous roof span!
What this means is that Man -- even with the latest state of the art technology -- cannot build the 10 million year-old Sarawak chamber. Only Mother Nature in her infinite wisdom has.
Further more, Mulu holds yet another spelacological record. It has the biggest cave passage. This is in the Deer Cave and this passage is 1.2 km long and averages over 100 m high. And in some parts it widens to over 160 m.
C A V E A R T A N D A R T I F A C T S :
K E Y S T O M A N ' S P R E H I S T O R I C P A S T
The more accessible caves in the world today are `show caves', open to the public. But prehistoric man (caveman) used caves as their homes, sturdy natural shelters from the weather, and also from wild animals. Traces of human remains in caves -- their tools, their artifacts and their art, carved or painted on rock -- give rich clues as to the lives they led in those nomadic times.
It is impossible to give irrefutable evidence of man's earliest use of caves for even so-called experts only dare venture dates that can have as much as a 30 million year variance ("the Peninsular Malaysia caves were themselves formed about 60-100 million years ago"), but what is for certain is that many tribal cultures, the world over, used caves first as shelters and later as temples for worship and meditation and even as burial sites. Then, in times of war, persecution or inter-tribal conflict, caves were used as hideouts.
Those who have never ventured into caves other than `show caves', probably have the impression that most caves are pitch-dark, damp, dank and smelly places, rife with bats, poisonous snakes, scorpions and other `creepy crawlies'.
Some of this is true but at the same time caves are beautiful and peaceful places and home to some incredible creatures. Venture beyond the entrance of a deep cave and you enter into a nocturnal world of infinite variety that is fascinatingly different from the world outside.
However, there are some distinct differences between caves in temperate climates and caves in the tropics. Tropical caves are generally bigger, above ground and therefore less vertical, warmer and with much more fauna.
C A V E I N H A B I T A N T S A R E U N I Q U E . . .
B U T A L L D E P E N D O N T H E B A T
Temperate or non-tropical, caves are well and truly dark which is why glow worm caves like those in New Zealand, are particularly enchanting. There is no sunlight in the cave and therefore no plants as plants needs sunlight to photosynthesise. These make cave inhabitants quite unique and they are divided into two types. One is
the `trogloxenes' and the other the `troglobite'.
Trogloxenes use the caves as temporary shelters (cave men being one of these), but they can also live outside. Troglobites spend their whole life in the cave and every troglobites is dependent on the cave dwelling bats for their very survival.
Bats and swiftlets are the only cave dwelling animals that go out to feed; and it is the bat's excreta or guano which supports the entire cave dwelling food chain.
The bats live suspended from the roofs of the caves and their guano falls onto the cave floor, forming rich food for insects like beetles, mites, worms, cockroaches etc. These insects are in turn fed upon by spiders, crickets, centipedes, pseudo-scorpions and the like. And these creatures are then hunted and eaten by frogs and toads.
Snakes also live in caves and the non-poisonous Cave Racer, Elaphe taeniura, is the only snake that has adapted to cave life and it feeds on bats, thereby completing the food chain. Bats are also useful to the life outside the cave. Bats pollinate the durian and petai trees, as well as other fruit trees. The bat guano is a rich fertiliser but the practice of collecting it should be discouraged as it disturbs the delicate ecosystem in the caves.
Small mammals such as rodents can also be found in caves, also porcupines and occasionally elephants will visit a cave entrance, presumably to lick the salts there. But the main cave life is made up of invertebrates.
In Dark Cave (Batu Caves, outside Kuala Lumpur), 170 species of invertebrates have been found. This includes one of the world's rarest spiders, the Trapdoor Spider, Liphistius batuensis, aptly named after the Batu Caves. It is thought that this species is unique to Dark Cave as it has not been found anywhere else in the
world. At least not yet.
C A V E S A R E F R A G I L E A N D
N E E D P R O T E C T I O N
As with everything else in the natural world, caves have provided man with shelter and refuge but despite their solid rock appearance, caves and the cave environment are fragile and man can and has destroyed the world of millions of years in mere seconds. Many caves have been destroyed through quarrying for the limestone which is used in the construction industry.
All caves need to be protected; this goes not just for the caves that are alive and still forming but even those that appear to be dry and 'dead'.
While one would like people to appreciate the special atmosphere of caves and their particular beauty, caves need to be protected from tourist hordes. The fantastic formations, underground streams and myriad animal life can be harmed, polluted and damaged by the unwary human visitor. For instance I have seen ignorant people break off a stal to take home as a sourvenir, only to find when they get outside the cave that what had appeared ethereal and beautiful turns out to be
only an "uninteresting" lump of rock. So it is important not to break off or even to touch the formations, bearing in mind how many thousands of years each has taken to grow.
The other human activities that are even more immediately threatening are the taking of guano for fertiliser and, even worse, the rapacious removal of swiflets' nests on a commercial scale for soups and medicines. This takes place mostly in Sabah and Sarawak and the harvesting of the nests hurts not only the birds but the caves.
Caves must be appreciated as an unique part of the natural environment, in any part of the world. Caves are also one of the last few places left "to go where no man has been before" as there are many caves waiting to be discovered. And who knows what rich secrets their discovery will yield?
--
Nature Watch, January-March 1997. [Singpaore]
Kenyir's impressive caves - Star
THE STAR
Saturday, April 15, 2000
Off the Beaten Track
Kenyir's impressive caves
By Liz Price
MOST people go to Tasik Kenyir for fishing or maybe boating, but I went there for an adventure of a different kind. Caving. Tasik Kenyir in Ulu Terengganu is the largest man-made lake in South East Asia.
When the area was flooded with water between 1978 and 1985,, most of the hilltops and highlands remained above water level, thus creating about 340 man-made islands. There are more than 14 waterfalls, numerous rapids and rivers. And caves.
Located about 60km from Kuala Terengganu, it covers an area of 369 sq. km or 260,000ha. This makes it Malaysia's largest rock-filled hydroelectric dam. Sharing its border with Kelantan in the west and Pahang in the south, this immense lake also serves as a third gateway to Taman Negara. The hilly regions of Tasik Kenyir contain areas of untouched tropical rainforest estimated to be millions of years old.
There are two caves accessible to visitors at Kenyir, Gua Bewah and Gua Taat. Getting to the caves is fun. They are located at the southern end of the lake, and lie within Taman Negara. Therefore permits have to be bought in order to enter the Park. From Pengkalan Gawi (Gawi jetty), which is the main gateway to Tasik Kenyir, you have a choice of speed boat or slower house boat.
We went out by speed boat, the journey took 70 minutes and it was a fun ride, although those in the front got soaked as water washed over the bows. I could have done with wiper blades on my sunglasses! It was actually quite chilly speeding over the lake, especially as the sun was hiding behind clouds. We returned using the house boat which takes about three hours.
Before the creation of the lake, there were probably several caves accessible and some were of archaeological importance. However when the area was flooded, most of the caves were lost underwater.
Batu Tok Bidan cave in Gunung Bewah was one of those. Prior to its disappearance, archaeologists had discovered Neolithic artefacts such as kitchen utensils, stone adzes and pottery sherds. Molluscs shells with the tips broken off suggests the site was frequently used as a shelter in the prehistoric past. Even a Neolithic burial was found, with broken pottery laid at the foot of the deceased.
The cave was probably adjacent to two well known routes used by the aborigines in prehistoric times through Terengganu to Sungai Tembling. The cave was first dug in 1959 by R.Noone, and later by Malaysian Historical Society in 1976. The Neolithic or New Stone Age era occurred about 10,000 years ago.
Now there are two remaining limestone hills containing the caves. The caves can only be reached by boat. Gua Bewah is the biggest of the known caves, situated in Bukit Bewah. From the floating jetty, a steep flight of steps lead up to the big entrance situated 40m above lake level. The cave is basically one huge chamber. A strong stench of guano was noticeable as we climbed up the steps, indicating a large colony of bats living inside the cave.
As we went in, it took a while for our eyes to adjust to the darkness, and we realised just how huge the chamber is. The roof was high above our heads, and although we could hear the bats, we couldn't see them.
Bats play an important role in the ecosystem, because where there are bats, there will also be other cave fauna. The bats support the whole food chain -- their droppings or guano is fed upon by the smaller fauna such as insects and invertebrates which in turn are food for larger creatures such as small mammals, frogs and toads and even the cave snake.
To the left of the main entrance are various pits in the floor which were dug by the museum department. Unfortunately no mention is made of what archaeological relics were found.
Old sacks of guano bear testimony to the fact that people once entered the cave to harvest guano for use as a fertiliser. Today the sacks make a convenient staircase up the guano covered floor. There used to be electric lighting in the cave, but it no longer works.
The back section of the cave is the most interesting containing an abundance of cave fauna such as crickets, cockroaches and spiders. For many people, it would be a nightmare to see all these "creepy crawlies" but for me, they are an important part of the cave ecology.
There are not many stalagmites or stalactites, so although the cave is not pretty in that sense, it is really impressive due to the huge size of the chamber.
Gua Taat is in the hill opposite Bewah and has two entrances, The main entrance is reached by a wooden step ladder, the steps are obviously underwater when the level of the lake is high. The entrance is quite small and low compared to Bewah.
Again there are a few pits dug in the floor, and these probably fill up with water during monsoon time, when the lake will overflow into the cave. We saw otter pawprints in and around the pits. I guess the animals catch fish which get trapped in here during monsoon time.
A straight tunnel with a flat roof leads to the back section, where it meets a small stream. The passage then swings round to the left, and there are some nice formations, such as a "Lion King" shaped stalagmite and an impressive array of 'sharks' teeth' formations. Light comes in from the second entrance, but to reach it entails a belly crawl through a tight squeeze.
Gua Taat was first dug in 1959. Flaked tools from the Hoabinhian period (14,000-10,000 years ago) were found, as well as pottery and food remains such as molluscs.
There is a second cave further round, Gua Taat 2, but it is basically just a long rock shelter. It is easy to see why stone age man used these caves as temporary refuges -- for shelter and protection, and providing a good view down onto the lower grounds below.
As Taat and Bewah may hold more secrets of the past, further excavations are now being planned by the authorities in its bid to unravel the mysteries and secrets of these caves. Ketengah with the co-operation of the State Museum and other government agencies plans to provide better access to these caves.
Ketengah (Terengganu Tengab Development authority) administers the lake and islands, protects the natural heritage and recognises the value in preserving this area of mountainous tropical rainforest. They are taking steps to provide facilities such as ranger stations, base camps and hiking trails.
Surrounded by a lush tropical jungle, the Kenyir Lake is a popular and ideal retreat for nature lovers, anglers and photographers, as well as cavers. Other activities include swimming, canoeing, boating and jungle trekking.
Due to the cleanliness of the lake, the Kenyir Lake has a wide variety of fresh water fish such as Baung, Toman, Kelisa and Lampam. Accommodation such as houseboats, floating chalets and lakeside resorts are also available to visitors.
My sojorn was made all the more enjoyable thanks for Encik Johari of Ketengah for hosting my visit, and to Yusof of Try Adventure for transport arrangements. Thanks guys.
Saturday, April 15, 2000
Off the Beaten Track
Kenyir's impressive caves
By Liz Price
MOST people go to Tasik Kenyir for fishing or maybe boating, but I went there for an adventure of a different kind. Caving. Tasik Kenyir in Ulu Terengganu is the largest man-made lake in South East Asia.
When the area was flooded with water between 1978 and 1985,, most of the hilltops and highlands remained above water level, thus creating about 340 man-made islands. There are more than 14 waterfalls, numerous rapids and rivers. And caves.
Located about 60km from Kuala Terengganu, it covers an area of 369 sq. km or 260,000ha. This makes it Malaysia's largest rock-filled hydroelectric dam. Sharing its border with Kelantan in the west and Pahang in the south, this immense lake also serves as a third gateway to Taman Negara. The hilly regions of Tasik Kenyir contain areas of untouched tropical rainforest estimated to be millions of years old.
There are two caves accessible to visitors at Kenyir, Gua Bewah and Gua Taat. Getting to the caves is fun. They are located at the southern end of the lake, and lie within Taman Negara. Therefore permits have to be bought in order to enter the Park. From Pengkalan Gawi (Gawi jetty), which is the main gateway to Tasik Kenyir, you have a choice of speed boat or slower house boat.
We went out by speed boat, the journey took 70 minutes and it was a fun ride, although those in the front got soaked as water washed over the bows. I could have done with wiper blades on my sunglasses! It was actually quite chilly speeding over the lake, especially as the sun was hiding behind clouds. We returned using the house boat which takes about three hours.
Before the creation of the lake, there were probably several caves accessible and some were of archaeological importance. However when the area was flooded, most of the caves were lost underwater.
Batu Tok Bidan cave in Gunung Bewah was one of those. Prior to its disappearance, archaeologists had discovered Neolithic artefacts such as kitchen utensils, stone adzes and pottery sherds. Molluscs shells with the tips broken off suggests the site was frequently used as a shelter in the prehistoric past. Even a Neolithic burial was found, with broken pottery laid at the foot of the deceased.
The cave was probably adjacent to two well known routes used by the aborigines in prehistoric times through Terengganu to Sungai Tembling. The cave was first dug in 1959 by R.Noone, and later by Malaysian Historical Society in 1976. The Neolithic or New Stone Age era occurred about 10,000 years ago.
Now there are two remaining limestone hills containing the caves. The caves can only be reached by boat. Gua Bewah is the biggest of the known caves, situated in Bukit Bewah. From the floating jetty, a steep flight of steps lead up to the big entrance situated 40m above lake level. The cave is basically one huge chamber. A strong stench of guano was noticeable as we climbed up the steps, indicating a large colony of bats living inside the cave.
As we went in, it took a while for our eyes to adjust to the darkness, and we realised just how huge the chamber is. The roof was high above our heads, and although we could hear the bats, we couldn't see them.
Bats play an important role in the ecosystem, because where there are bats, there will also be other cave fauna. The bats support the whole food chain -- their droppings or guano is fed upon by the smaller fauna such as insects and invertebrates which in turn are food for larger creatures such as small mammals, frogs and toads and even the cave snake.
To the left of the main entrance are various pits in the floor which were dug by the museum department. Unfortunately no mention is made of what archaeological relics were found.
Old sacks of guano bear testimony to the fact that people once entered the cave to harvest guano for use as a fertiliser. Today the sacks make a convenient staircase up the guano covered floor. There used to be electric lighting in the cave, but it no longer works.
The back section of the cave is the most interesting containing an abundance of cave fauna such as crickets, cockroaches and spiders. For many people, it would be a nightmare to see all these "creepy crawlies" but for me, they are an important part of the cave ecology.
There are not many stalagmites or stalactites, so although the cave is not pretty in that sense, it is really impressive due to the huge size of the chamber.
Gua Taat is in the hill opposite Bewah and has two entrances, The main entrance is reached by a wooden step ladder, the steps are obviously underwater when the level of the lake is high. The entrance is quite small and low compared to Bewah.
Again there are a few pits dug in the floor, and these probably fill up with water during monsoon time, when the lake will overflow into the cave. We saw otter pawprints in and around the pits. I guess the animals catch fish which get trapped in here during monsoon time.
A straight tunnel with a flat roof leads to the back section, where it meets a small stream. The passage then swings round to the left, and there are some nice formations, such as a "Lion King" shaped stalagmite and an impressive array of 'sharks' teeth' formations. Light comes in from the second entrance, but to reach it entails a belly crawl through a tight squeeze.
Gua Taat was first dug in 1959. Flaked tools from the Hoabinhian period (14,000-10,000 years ago) were found, as well as pottery and food remains such as molluscs.
There is a second cave further round, Gua Taat 2, but it is basically just a long rock shelter. It is easy to see why stone age man used these caves as temporary refuges -- for shelter and protection, and providing a good view down onto the lower grounds below.
As Taat and Bewah may hold more secrets of the past, further excavations are now being planned by the authorities in its bid to unravel the mysteries and secrets of these caves. Ketengah with the co-operation of the State Museum and other government agencies plans to provide better access to these caves.
Ketengah (Terengganu Tengab Development authority) administers the lake and islands, protects the natural heritage and recognises the value in preserving this area of mountainous tropical rainforest. They are taking steps to provide facilities such as ranger stations, base camps and hiking trails.
Surrounded by a lush tropical jungle, the Kenyir Lake is a popular and ideal retreat for nature lovers, anglers and photographers, as well as cavers. Other activities include swimming, canoeing, boating and jungle trekking.
Due to the cleanliness of the lake, the Kenyir Lake has a wide variety of fresh water fish such as Baung, Toman, Kelisa and Lampam. Accommodation such as houseboats, floating chalets and lakeside resorts are also available to visitors.
My sojorn was made all the more enjoyable thanks for Encik Johari of Ketengah for hosting my visit, and to Yusof of Try Adventure for transport arrangements. Thanks guys.
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