Caving in SE Asia

6 June 2009

Nong Khiaw, Laos - Star

THE STAR
Lifestyle

Saturday June 6, 2009
Taking time out
By LIZ PRICE

Chill out in peaceful Nong Khiaw or explore the outdoors in Muang Ngoi, Laos.

I was sitting on the balcony of the coffee shop mesmerised by the scenery and thinking of nothing in particular. I cleared my mind of all thoughts and just concentrated on absorbing the beautiful view. The wide river flowed below me, buffaloes wallowed and boats chugged past.

I was in Nong Khiaw, a peaceful village bisected by the Nam Ou River, in a gorgeous setting surrounded by limestone mountains and caves. The main street is basically a row of houses, guesthouses and small shops ending at a school.

Life is laid-back and calm in Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi. — LIZ PRICE

Located in Luang Prabang province in northern Laos (Lao PDR), Nong Khiaw is a small district and a popular stopover for tourists. It’s a 2 ½ hour drive north by car from the World Heritage town of Luang Prabang, or a six-hour boat ride.

There’s not much to do except sit and stare at the scenery, or go for a walk, boat ride or watch the fishermen. Discovering the area on foot is great as you experience life in rural Laos. You greet everyone with “sabaidy” which is hello, and they usually respond with a smile. There are kids playing and animals wandering around.

The children spend time on the sandy areas by the river and love to give flowers to passing tourists. But there is a catch as they then ask for a pen, candy, bag or kip which is the local currency. Another drawback of tourism is that the restaurants really cater to Western tourists who want baguettes and pancakes, Nescafe and French wine, rather than the local sticky rice and Lao coffee.

Near the bridge is a small temple with images of hell. If you walk along the road leading out of town, you come across some stunning scenery as the road passes between two limestone hills. On the right, a sign says “Welcome to Historical Pathok Cave”. The cave entrance in the cliff is visible from the road and you have to walk through the rice paddies to reach it and then climb a bamboo ladder.

There is still a huge problem of landmines and bombs left over from the Vietnam War, and many parts of Laos have not yet been cleared, so make sure you stick to well used paths.

There are other trails in the village and you can get information from the restaurants. If you are feeling energetic, you can trek up the mountains. If you plan to do a long walk, be sure to take a torch in case you get caught in the dark. Electricity supply is still a problem and is generally on from 6pm to 10pm. Although all the guesthouses now have light, some only have it outside the rooms.

The river taxis are mostly moored on the downriver side of the village. On the upper side are small dwellings and guesthouses alongside the river. The speedboats are becoming an intrusion into the peace of the village. They cater for tourists going to Luang Prabang and Muang Khua.

It’s fun to go on a boat up or down the river, but be warned that the fares are rather expensive. Some boat trips require a minimum number of people, so this increases the cost if there are not many passengers. It may be more pleasant to take a slow boat, such as the one upriver to Muang Khua which takes six hours.

If you want a shorter trip, take the boat upriver to Muang Ngoi. This is a pleasant one hour ride, passing some nice scenery and small villages. The riverboats are long and narrow with hard wooden single seats on either side of a central aisle.

The longtail motorboat precariously powers up the rapids and you can feast your eyes on limestone cliffs and mountains dripping with foliage. If you are lucky you may see elephants working on the riverbanks.

Once you get to the village, spend a pleasant few hours strolling around. Muang Ngoi is only accessible by foot or boat as it is surrounded by steep hills, so is delightfully devoid of cars and motorbikes. There is one red dirt main road that runs parallel to the river through town.

The long main street is lined with palm trees, guesthouses and cafés for backpackers. At the end are some brick steps and the remains of a temple destroyed by bombing in the Second Indochina War. At the other end of the village is the main temple, Wat Neua.

Although only recently discovered by the backpacker travel crowd, Muang Ngoi already boasts plentiful cheap accommodation and restaurants. Electricity powered by small hydroelectric generators in the river is only on between 6pm and 10pm.

It’s great to lie in a hammock watching kids play in the river and parents watering their riverside vegetable gardens. When the sun sets behind a limestone peak, the frogs and geckos begin their nightly chorus.

Muang Ngoi has become a centre for trekking and other activities which include birding and caving. There are some caves along a tributary valley of the Nam Ou. One cave has a stream coming out and there are fish in the water. As with many caves in Laos, this one has a net stretched across the entrance to catch bats and swifts as they leave.

If you stay longer, you can do a two-day, community-based trek. On this, you can enjoy the nature and interact with the local people, knowing that you are contributing to the sustainable development of tourism in Laos.

From Nong Khiaw, you can go by bus to Vieng Thong and then on to Nam Noen, and from here you can get to Phonsavan to see the magnificent Plain of Jars. It’s certainly a stunning part of Laos and well worth a visit.

Getting there
From Luang Prabang, take the bus (three hours) or boat (seven hours) along the Mekong and Ou River.

Buses leave Luang Prabang’s Northern Bus in the morning. The river trip is more interesting but is more expensive. Tickets are sold at various travel agents in Luang Prabang, and boats leave from the pier in the morning.

Boat departures depend on the number of passengers. In the low season, you may have to charter the boat.

From Nong Khiaw, there are bus connections to Udom Xai, Muang Vieng Kham, Sam Neua and Luang Nam Tha. But public transport heading east is scarce.

ACCOMMODATION There are basic guesthouses and cafés in the town. Make sure you have enough Lao kip with you as credit cards, travellers cheques and foreign currency are not accepted, although one or two guesthouses may change US dollars.
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7 comments:

Yeshe Liew said...: Really envy you. Any luck on bats. Seen many butterflies in such unspoiled enviroment.; June 6, 2009 8:18 PM
Liz Price said...: Not many bats now, most have been eaten!!!; June 9, 2009 5:17 PM
Yeshe Liew said...: what you mean, eaten ! By man or cave snake ?; June 9, 2009 8:23 PM
Liz Price said...: By man. Most of the cave bats in Laos have been eaten. All the caves (at least in the north) men go in to catch bats to eat. So it was surprising that in Cambodia and Myanmar they don't do this.; June 11, 2009 5:16 PM
Yeshe Liew said...: Do you know in Malaysia, people eat flying fox ( fruit bat) ? Including myself - those years. The hunter will give me a few in exchange for one taxidermy work. How's that for barter trading ? Hahaha; June 16, 2009 10:46 PM
Liz Price said...: I know people shoot the flying foxes to eat, especially in Johore area. At least there's more meat on a flying fox compared to a small bat!; June 30, 2009 2:53 PM
Yeshe Liew said...: I was thinking, you are talking about flying fox. But small or other bats - that is unimagineable. You know what time it is now ? - 3.55AM ! Some times cannot sleep.; July 1, 2009 3:56 AM

19 April 2009

Bau's caves - Brunei Times

Published on The Brunei Times (http://www.bt.com.bn/en)
Sarawak's 'smelly' cave no longer on the nose

Hidden valley: The path leading through Fairy Cave as seen from the huge entrance to the cavern. Picture: Liz Price [wrong photo!!]
Liz Price
BAU, SARAWAK

Sunday, April 19, 2009

THE town of Bau in Sarawak has a very strange name when translated into English. It means smell. The name has a historical origin, dating back to the days when three freedom fighters struggled for the country's independence from the Brooke rule. In 1857 there was heavy fighting between Chinese miners and the Brooke's men as the miners were angry at ill-treatment by the first Rajah, James Brooke.

When Brooke organised a counter attack on the miners' stronghold, several thousand Chinese were killed, and freshly smoked heads of victims were hung in bunches of 30 or more in the Bau bazaar. Some Chinese escaped and fled into the jungle, or hid in Ghost Cave. The burnt and decomposing bodies produced a bad smell, which is said to have given the town its name.

Today Bau is a peaceful place, is easily accessible from Kuching and has two caves which are interesting tourist attractions. The only smell is a natural one coming from the bat guano! These caves are Wind Cave and Fairy Cave and are part of the Wind Cave Nature Reserve.

There are many caves in the Bau area, and they were first described by Europeans in the mid 19th century. Famous explorers such as Wallace and Low wrote about the wondrous caves and the birds' nests collection from the caves.

Gua Angin or Wind Cave lies about two kilomtres west of Bau town. When Sir Hugh Low visited in 1845, he was told the cave was the habitation of dragons and bad spirits.

The tales of dragons probably originate from the noise the wind makes when blowing through the cave, the wind that gives the cave its name. It can be an eerie noise when in a pitch black cave.

There are also lots of bats in the cave, and the noise of their fluttering wings can also sound like wind. Other animals live in the cave, mostly invertebrates such as long legged centipedes, spiders and crickets.

Wind Cave has three main entrances and a river flows through the cave and joins the Sungai Sarawak Kanan at the northern entrance. Exploring the cave is easy as a plankwalk runs through the length of the cave, although you need a torch as there is no electric lighting.

As you walk through the cave you can see lots of stalactites and stalagmites. You can hear the bats squeaking overhead, and the clicks made by the swiftlets as they navigate through the cave. In some places you may be able to see a swiftlet nest built on the rock.

The collection of the nests made by the swiftlets is a big industry in Borneo and the prepared nests can fetch high prices on the market. A kilogramme of processed cave birds' nests can cost US$5,500 ($7,975).

Fairy Cave is quite different from Wind Cave. There is no river and the cave is located high up in the hill. Situated in Bukit Kapor about eight kilometres southwest of Bau town, Fairy Cave is well visited. And there are many legends relating to the cave.

A Bidayuh story relates that during a Gawai festival villagers laughed loudly at some cruel tricks played. They laughed so much that a violent storm blew up and the rain came followed by thunder and lightning. When the storm eventually passed, the whole kampung and all its inhabitants had been turned into stone, and become the rocky mountain of Fairy Cave and Bukit Kapor.

Chinese stories tell of how the cave is home to fairies, gods and goddesses. The cave has great significance to Chinese religious groups, who have erected shrines in the cave, and devotees place offerings and say prayers to the many rock formations that resemble the Chinese gods.

Until about 30 years ago visitors had to trek through the jungle for half an hour before scaling the rocky cliffs to reach the entrance to Fairy Cave.

Access to the cave is now very easy, as one can drive to the foot of the hill, and then climb the steps to the entrance 30m above the base of the cliff.

Inside the main chamber concrete stairs and walkways have been built to give access to the various parts of the cave. It is a very impressive cave due to its size. Steps lead through the main chamber which is huge, and has a shrine to the Air Fairy at the top end. Beyond this chamber the cave narrows but there are some huge stalagmites in the form of columns and pillars.

The stalactites and stalagmites have associated stories. One in the rear of the main chamber looks like the Chinese Goddess of Mercy, Kwan Yin. Others resemble a crouching man, a turtle, even the Roman Coliseum. Locals say a lot of these formations resemble shapes of people from the village that was turned to stone.

You can walk through the cave to a small entrance at the back, and from there a trail leads to the top of the hill. But I wouldn't advise this in wet weather, as the trail can be very slippery.

These two caves are quite different in formation and character, and both are worth a visit if you are in the Bau area. And I can assure you there are no longer any bad smells.

The Brunei Times
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Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/travel/2009/04/19/sarawaks_smelly_cave_no_longer_on_the_nose

25 February 2009

Myanmar - chert in limestone caves

These formations are probably chert (amorphous silica). Saw these in caves in Myanmar.

Padon Cave -

This is in Padamyar Gu (Ruby Cave)

© Liz Price
No reproduction without permission

12 February 2009

Saparua, Maluku - BT

Saparua: An Indonesian isle of harmony

Highly strung: Saparua's 'rumah adat' was built without using nails. The wood pillars, joists and rafters have been tied with natural string. Picture: Liz Price

Liz Price
INDONESIA

Sunday, February 8, 2009

AS OUR speedboat approached the island of Saparua, I was surprised to see a new church with an extremely tall cross dominating the waterfront. The beach was lined with prahus boats and the cheerful locals waved as they hoisted the small triangular sail and set off across the bay.

On arrival, our boat was tied to the jetty and as soon as the waiting angkutan (bemo) drivers saw my white face they all tried to get my custom. They were out of luck as my transport had already been arranged by my companions.

It had taken one hour to make the crossing from Ambon to Saparua. Pulau Saparua is one of three islands forming the Lease group, situated to the east of Ambon in Maluku province, Indonesia.

The island Saparua is shaped like a distorted "H" and has roads covering each of the four peninsulas. Being part of the Spice Islands, the main products include nutmeg and cloves, as well as palm sugar and root products. Most people live as farmers or fishermen, unless they have jobs as government officers or teachers.

As we drove through the capital, also called Saparua, I was surprised to see many churches. Although Indonesia is the world's most populous Muslim country, the Ambon area of Maluku is home to many Christians. It's common to see a mosque next door to a church. Around the island there are a few Christian shrines, and also murals painted on walls, some with the word amato, meaning "go safely", and others more amusingly with Happy Christmas as a permanent feature.

Our first stop was Pattimura's house. Pattimura was an Indonesian national hero from the early 19th century and the house has been turned into a simple museum. There is a locked room containing a display cabinet of Pattimura's clothes. The houses in this town are all bungalows, many of which have thatched roofs made from sago leaves.

Driving through the market was interesting as the traders were just sitting in the road with their wares laid out on the ground. There wasn't a lot on offer, a few piles of durian and other fruit, and some yellow fish I hadn't seen before. Dogs strolled by but made no attempt to grab anything.

Saparua is famous for its biscuits, mostly made from sago. Some were quite okay whereas others resembled a small wad of compacted sawdust.

Our next stop was Fort Duurstede. Today just the shell remains, sitting atop a coral hill. It was built in 1676 by the Dutch Governor of Amboina (Ambon) and was later conquered by the hero Pattimura. During this attack, all the Dutch soldiers were killed. Some canons remain, facing out to the bay and cows graze on the grass inside the fort. The stone-walled lockup still remains.

Driving along the southeastern coast, we went through Sirisori, which is divided into Christian and Muslim villages of Sirisori Kristen and Islam.

Just beyond is Ouw, a village famous for its pottery. The potteries are family run and at the one we visited, we were able to watch the lady quickly and skillfully make two pots. The husband was firing some pieces in the kiln.

One of the main items made are the bowls used for papeda, which is the glue-like sago pudding eaten with fish sauce. Some of the items for sale caught my eye, in particular the large vases with intricately carved flower designs.

Having an interest in caves, I wanted to see Ouw Cave. Steps lead down to the entrance, and inside I was surprised to see three locals sitting in the subterranean river, washing their clothes. They use this cave as a water supply, washroom and laundry. The cave is quite dark so the people use homemade kerosene lamps. The water entering the cave was crystal clear, and it was sad to see all the empty detergent and shampoo wrappers left strewn around the cave.

Back in Ouw, we stopped to look at the ruins of the fortress, and I could see at least four churches in one road. It was amazing that such a small village would have so many places of worship. And then just outside the village a new mosque and church were being constructed side by side.

We then went across to Tuhaha and to the oldest church at Noloth. It was built in 1860 and the roof is made of sago palm leaves and amazingly it survived the riots. It was interesting to see an original stone inscribed "bait Allah detahbiskan oleh R.Bossert 1860" (God's house consecrated by Bossert).

Near the church is the rumah adat, which was constructed without using nails. The wood pillars, joists and rafters have been tied with natural string and the sago sheets used for the roof are tied to bamboo supports.

We headed for Kulur on the western side of the island. On the way we stopped to look at Goa Puteri Tujuh. This cave has amazing clear water pools. There are seven, one for each princess. I couldn't believe how clear the water is, and again the locals use the cave for washing.

We went on to the end of Kulur, to Goa Mandi and Minum. The first cave is used for washing and has a concrete platform where the locals can sit. I was surprised to see fish swimming in the soapy water.

The drinking cave is very clean, steps lead to the middle of the pool. Mercy Indonesia has even built a water tank outside.

Booi is the last village on the southernwestern peninsula. The road ends before the village and then you have to walk in. The village is built on the hill slope leading down to the sea and concrete steps connect the different levels, giving it a terraced effect.

After a full day of sightseeing, we went back to the main town and had a delicious dinner of fresh fish. We were all tired and went to bed early as the next day we would have to be up at 5am to catch the ferry back to Ambon.

It had been a great day.

The Brunei Times

Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/travel/2009/02/08/saparua_an_indonesian_isle_of_harmony

Luang Namtha, Laos - Brunei Times

Roger posted a blog on OneAsean about the Luang Namtha area, and this was of interest to me as I've written a few things about this great area. One of these is below, see also
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/classification/life/travel/2007/07/22/trekking_in_cool_unspoilt_northern_laos
Published on The Brunei Times (http://www.bt.com.bn/en)

Eco-tour treats await in Laos

Hole-in-one: Among the many natural spectacles in the Luang Namtha province are the Tham Nam Eng cave (Top), with its 'cavernous' entrance and passageways, and local ethnic minority villagers, who have not forgotten their traditional costumes and customs.Pictures: Liz Price

Liz Price

LAOS

Sunday, February 1, 2009

LUANG Namtha Province is one of the hidden secrets of Laos. It's an area rich in biodiversity and is unspoilt by mass tourism. All the tourists who go there have made the effort to reach this beautiful part of Laos. It's not the easiest place to get to as it isn't on any major routes. Tourism is still on a very small scale and fortunately the area is not on the itinerary of tour groups, making it a great place for eco-tourism.

Luang Namtha is in northern Laos, and borders China and Myanmar. The main city in the province is also called Luang Namtha and lies on the banks of the Namtha River. To get there by bus from the World Heritage city of Luang Prabang in the south takes between nine and 12 hours. Alternatively, it takes five to six hours to arrive from Huay Xai in Bokeo province, which is the border crossing to Chiang Khong (Chiang Rai) in Thailand.

Most of the eco-tourism activities are based around Luang Namtha. However, Vieng Phoukha to the south is a small town — or more accurately, a large village — which also offers similar adventure tours.

Trekking is the main activity, but you can also participate in mountain biking or kayaking. Any of these options gives you a chance to see the beautiful landscapes and meet the wonderful local people. I found the people fascinating. They belong belong to a whole range of ethnic minority groups and many of them go about daily life wearing colourful traditional outfits.

As we venture around the market, our guide points out the different tribal costumes and hats. There are about 14 ethnic groups living locally, with the main ones being the Akha, the Hmong and the Khmu. Over the years, local tribespeople have migrated throughout Burma, China, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. This mix is reflected in the physical features of the local people. They all look quite different from each other as there are many different ethnic groups living here.

The women from different groups wear their hair in distinct styles, with or without ornaments. Some men sport colourful jackets, but generally the children dress in western-style clothes.

Trekking is strictly controlled and it is illegal to take an unlicensed guide or to trek independently. This prevents tourists getting lost, and more importantly it stops them from offending the local people's tribal customs. It also helps in that it sends the message to the local people that they, their culture and their natural resources are important and have value. They learn that tourists like to trek through forests, and therefore forests should be left uncut.

There are a couple of agencies in Luang Namtha that offer trekking and other tours. In Vieng Phouka, the Eco-Guides office arranges treks. This area is the newest trekking area in Laos, and the Eco-Guides service is a community-based scheme being helped by the provincial government and the European Union. They currently offer four treks, ranging from one to three days, which visit various ethnic minority villages.

Participating in these eco-tourism activities gives the villagers an income, and also contributes to wildlife and forest conservation projects through access permits.

Laos is one of the poorest countries in the world. As we start our trek, we meet a trio of girls carrying nets and baskets. Our guide explains that the girls are looking for animals to catch. These people eat virtually any animal that they can find, and so they search the rice fields and forests. They use bamboo traps to catch birds and small mammals and they go into caves to hunt bats.

Caving is another activity that can be done in the Vieng Phouka area. Tham Nam Eng is very impressive, with very large chambers and passageways, and lots of beautiful stalagmites and stalactites.

At night, you sleep in ethnic villages. The houses are basic: there are no bathrooms and no running water or electricity. You use the river for washing and the village has a communal water pump and toilet. The nights are noisy with people coughing, dogs barking and chickens clucking.

Luang Namtha's Nam Ha Protected Area was named an ASEAN Heritage Park in 2005. It covers 2,224 square kilometres of unspoilt land ranging from lowlands to 2,000-metre peaks in the northern highlands. The park includes some of the most significant and largest contiguous wilderness areas in the country.

The terrain is quite mountainous, and mountain biking is an increasingly popular activity. The roads are virtually traffic-free and it's a great way to see the countryside. Most tour companies rent out bikes.

For those who prefer playing on water, kayaking and rafting in the province is some of the best in Laos. Negotiate rapids whilst passing lush forests and ethnic villages, or for something more sedate, why not settle for a boat trip on the Namtha. From Luang Namtha, drift downriver to the Nam Ha Protected Area and see Khmu and Lanten ethnic villages along the river banks.

The area also offers much for lovers of flora and fauna, especially birdwatchers. In fact, there is something for everyone who has a love of eco-tourism. And as it is still unspoilt by mass tourism, now is the time to go. Once the new highway opens between China and Thailand, it will bisect this amazing corner of Laos and change the landscape forever.

The Brunei Times

Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/travel/2009/02/01/eco_tour_treats_await_in_laos